I have an opportunity to buy a 2003 6.0 extended cab truck. Its an FX4 with just over 100k miles. I can pick it up for 4k but it is blowing white smoke bad. I am sure it needs head studs/head gaskets but not sure what all I may get into as far as cost on "bulletproofing" the 6.0. Any info is appreciated.

 

What kind of shape is the body in?
Can you do the work yourself? That will likely be the deciding factor, since you will save thousands in labor. It's the early build, so you might want to just figure on doing the HPOP as a PM measure if you are selling to make some money, but if not then for your own piece of mind since it will be torn down anyway.

 

The body is in excellent shape and the interior is as well. I am thinking the truck is worth around 12k fixed but maybe off there. I figure if I can pick it up for 4k and put 5k in fixing it (paying for the work) I'm in pretty good. I would have the ability to do the work and have a nice shop at the house but I'm not sure if I have the time.

 

Blowing white could be a ruptured EGR, bad injector and..... lots of guessing. You need a good live data gauge to determine the extent of possible damage... but for 4k, you may have a gem. Your guess at 5k is really dependant on the shop doing the work.. some can't find a truck in the parking lot let alone perform diagnostics correctly. A shop like that, your in for double your figures.

 

What live data gauge would you suggest? I am not sure they will allow me to take to the truck to a shop before I buy it but I am sure I can do whatever diagnostics I can on site when I go look at it tomorrow.

 

ms,


How did you go about finding this truck? OR, did you just stumble across it. I am looking for some trucks like that to try to make a little money on.


Thanks for any comments you can offer.

 

It could be a stuck EGR valve as well.

 

All of these read live data

Torque pro for Android, runs around $30, $5 for the software and $25 for the ELM327 blue tooth sensor.

Scan gauge II... $120, needs programmed by you with some special codes, easy to do.

ForScan, free software, EML327 devise again.

DashBoss for Iphone, special dongle for the connection, $60 I think.

Read ;Thinking of buying a used 6.0.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html

and this is helpful as well... anything TECH about these trucks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

 

Thanks for the info. It turns out the "shop" he took he to didn't even pop the hood and told him it would be at least 5k to fix it. The seller is older and didn't want to screw with it so just went and bought a brand new one. I am hoping I found a gem here but I generally don't get that lucky.

 

I'd be all over that for $4k. You can get reman'd long block for under $6k.
There's obviously an issue but it sounds like you can do alot of the work yourself.
Would you need this for immediate transportation or do you have some time?

I think it's a potential score, and maybe, just maybe the powers that be have you got you gem.

 

for $4k I'd be all over that like stink on a monkey. You can get reman'd long block for under $6k.
There's obviously an issue but it sounds like you can do alot of the work yourself.
Would you need this for immediate transportation or do you have some time?

I think it's a potential score, and maybe, just maybe the powers that be have you got you gem in the works.

 

Update: I ended up getting the truck bought and took it to the shop. They say they are 90% sure its just the EGR but want to know if I want to do head studs/gaskets or just do the EGR delete. What is your opinions on this. All in parts and labor I am looking at about 1000 for just the EGR delete and 3500 bulletproof it completely. If I do decide to go all the way what kit do you recommend?


thanks

 

Offer him $2,500. cash

 

Congratulations on your early Christmas present! Now for my 2 cents on buying a used 2003 6.0. Since I try to be frugal, I would look see the best way to save money, not spend it.

1. There is no real comprehensive bullet proofing of any vehicle. It is probably the most overused phrase I see on this and any other vehicle forum.

2. What I would do if I were in your position would be to buy a Scangauge or other diagnostic device and check all the parameters like eot/ect, boost, various sensors, FICM voltage, battery voltage and anything else that can be checked while the engine is runnng or off. Lots of info about proper values on this site.

3. Next, I would do a physical inspection of the braking system, the ball and universal joints and the exhaust system. In other words, get under the truck and have a look.

4. Take the truck to the Ford house and have them do a complete inspection and do a diagnostic on the engine and transmission. This will be money well spent and then again it could be a bust. I would bet on money well spent. This along with the results from a Scangauge or whatever and the physical inspection will give you a baseline. Now you can intelligently explore the alternatives for correctly fixing any deficiencies.

5. Next, change all filters and all fluids. Make sure you use either the Ford or Racor oil and fuel filters or you will be really sorry. A lot has been written about aftermarket filters failing. FLush the coolant and replace with Ford Gold or ELC. Lots have been written on this forum about coolant.

6. I would not do an EGR delete or an upgrade tune. Why? The EGR cooler on the '03 and early '04 is much more stout that the later models. You can clean the EGR valve (I did it and it was easy) or if necessary replace it. That will solve the error code dilemma oftentimes seen with deletes and not put your registration at risk if your state mandates testing in the future for this truck.

In summary, plan your work and work your plan. Throwing parts at this vehicle is an expensive proposition. And yes, I do drive an '03 with 96k on the odometer. Most of this mileage has been cross continent with a 30' filth wheel. And it is virtually stock. When I'm on the road and I need something fixed, I want to look stock when I pull into the Ford house. Good luck!

 

Just trying to figure out when this smoke is happening. A malfunctioning EGR will buck and snort under acceleration, at idle you wouldn't know it. Easy fix to rule out the EGR on a 2003, with the truck turned Off, unplug the EGR then drive it.