Fuel Pressure Sensor pre or post filter?
#31
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,277
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Vertical pressure sensor
Sorry for the delay, we were in a cabin in the woods for 5 days
I did mount mine vertically- well, on an angle
The elbow would not clear the drain valve to install, but since I was rebuilding the bowl anyways, I installed it first. Much easier with the bowl removed anyways.
Here are some pics.
I have the straight adapter and another sensor for pre-filter, but didn't get to it yet.
I did mount mine vertically- well, on an angle
The elbow would not clear the drain valve to install, but since I was rebuilding the bowl anyways, I installed it first. Much easier with the bowl removed anyways.
Here are some pics.
I have the straight adapter and another sensor for pre-filter, but didn't get to it yet.
#32
Great pictures and advice from both of you! I have decided that I will mount the sensor post filter in a horizontal fashion.
I started into the project last night and realized that I will have a lot of time just cleaning when removing/replacing parts. I may invest into Simple Green before starting the cleaning portion.
I have a new downpipe/turbo v-clamp on the way because the 16 year old stock one was installed by a gremlin or something and the bolt is completely out of sight and at a strange angle. I attempted to remove it after soaking it for 3 days with penetrating fluid and only managed to bend the bolt itself because of the weird angle it is. Ordered a new one from RR last night and am just going to cut the old one off.
Although, the night was not a total loss! I managed to remove the entire exhaust system minus the downpipe and then cleaned the Racor pre-filter. Well on my way to a smooth upgrade!
I started into the project last night and realized that I will have a lot of time just cleaning when removing/replacing parts. I may invest into Simple Green before starting the cleaning portion.
I have a new downpipe/turbo v-clamp on the way because the 16 year old stock one was installed by a gremlin or something and the bolt is completely out of sight and at a strange angle. I attempted to remove it after soaking it for 3 days with penetrating fluid and only managed to bend the bolt itself because of the weird angle it is. Ordered a new one from RR last night and am just going to cut the old one off.
Although, the night was not a total loss! I managed to remove the entire exhaust system minus the downpipe and then cleaned the Racor pre-filter. Well on my way to a smooth upgrade!
#33
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,277
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I recommend a bottle of the concentrate, plus a spray bottle for mixing and spraying
Wear gloves. I use 9mil neoprene (black) from Harbor Freight. Splurging on the thicker ones is wise. My big hands just split the thinner ones too fast.
Do you have your turbo pedestal top and bottom orings?
I found some rough spots on my mating surfaces, probably from removing it before or this time and dressed them with a file. I was surprise at how "soft" the aluminum was. Doesn't take much to nick it.
I used a variety of extensions on my socket and an impact wrench and air ratchet to reach the top bolts of the uppipes. They allow better control, as I can hold the socket and extensions in place and hit the button rather that twisting a ratchet where there isn't much room.
A stubby box wrench came in handy on the passenger side to hold the bolts closest to the manifold.
MAKE SURE the socket fits tightly and squarely and does not slip! You don't want to round off any bolts.
That's all I can think of to mention at the moment.
Good luck!
Wear gloves. I use 9mil neoprene (black) from Harbor Freight. Splurging on the thicker ones is wise. My big hands just split the thinner ones too fast.
Do you have your turbo pedestal top and bottom orings?
I found some rough spots on my mating surfaces, probably from removing it before or this time and dressed them with a file. I was surprise at how "soft" the aluminum was. Doesn't take much to nick it.
I used a variety of extensions on my socket and an impact wrench and air ratchet to reach the top bolts of the uppipes. They allow better control, as I can hold the socket and extensions in place and hit the button rather that twisting a ratchet where there isn't much room.
A stubby box wrench came in handy on the passenger side to hold the bolts closest to the manifold.
MAKE SURE the socket fits tightly and squarely and does not slip! You don't want to round off any bolts.
That's all I can think of to mention at the moment.
Good luck!
#34
I recommend a bottle of the concentrate, plus a spray bottle for mixing and spraying
Wear gloves. I use 9mil neoprene (black) from Harbor Freight. Splurging on the thicker ones is wise. My big hands just split the thinner ones too fast.
Do you have your turbo pedestal top and bottom orings?
I found some rough spots on my mating surfaces, probably from removing it before or this time and dressed them with a file. I was surprise at how "soft" the aluminum was. Doesn't take much to nick it.
I used a variety of extensions on my socket and an impact wrench and air ratchet to reach the top bolts of the uppipes. They allow better control, as I can hold the socket and extensions in place and hit the button rather that twisting a ratchet where there isn't much room.
A stubby box wrench came in handy on the passenger side to hold the bolts closest to the manifold.
MAKE SURE the socket fits tightly and squarely and does not slip! You don't want to round off any bolts.
That's all I can think of to mention at the moment.
Good luck!
Wear gloves. I use 9mil neoprene (black) from Harbor Freight. Splurging on the thicker ones is wise. My big hands just split the thinner ones too fast.
Do you have your turbo pedestal top and bottom orings?
I found some rough spots on my mating surfaces, probably from removing it before or this time and dressed them with a file. I was surprise at how "soft" the aluminum was. Doesn't take much to nick it.
I used a variety of extensions on my socket and an impact wrench and air ratchet to reach the top bolts of the uppipes. They allow better control, as I can hold the socket and extensions in place and hit the button rather that twisting a ratchet where there isn't much room.
A stubby box wrench came in handy on the passenger side to hold the bolts closest to the manifold.
MAKE SURE the socket fits tightly and squarely and does not slip! You don't want to round off any bolts.
That's all I can think of to mention at the moment.
Good luck!
Thanks for the well wishes. Once I get it back together I will then order a GH/Hydra tune and she will be in tip top shape. Next spring is injectors, suspension and steering upgrades.
#35
#36
Sorry, I had to cover a co-workers shifts at work so I haven't been able to work on installing fuel sensor. The 90 that Riffraff sells does have a nut that allows you to place it at an angle. Im hoping that I can place it at enough angle that the fuel bowl drain does not conflict with it. Anyways, sounds like you will be getting started before me so I look forward to hearing back on how it goes!
#37
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes
on
26 Posts
Sorry, I had to cover a co-workers shifts at work so I haven't been able to work on installing fuel sensor. The 90 that Riffraff sells does have a nut that allows you to place it at an angle. Im hoping that I can place it at enough angle that the fuel bowl drain does not conflict with it. Anyways, sounds like you will be getting started before me so I look forward to hearing back on how it goes!
The only problem is installing the 90* elbow...it hits the drain. I installed mine while the drain valve was removed from the bowl.
#39
For anyone that has a problem with their Fuel pressure sending unit going out, ISSPRO now has a snub to go in line prior to the sensor in order to protect the sensor. The last sending unit on our Excursion lasted about 3 years and just went out last week. After talking to Michael at ISSPRO I added the R7800 snub in between the sending unit & the bowl.
I sure am glad it was the sensor, cuz she decided to go out at the worst possible time. Driving home 4 hours at -15F last week! I thought I was doomed by the Gelling monster like the numerous trucks I saw on the side of the road.
Seems to make sense to me. On the 6.0L's they add a line in between the bowl and the sensor to relocate the sensor away from the vibration & pressure spikes.
I would think Riff Raff would have them as well.
I sure am glad it was the sensor, cuz she decided to go out at the worst possible time. Driving home 4 hours at -15F last week! I thought I was doomed by the Gelling monster like the numerous trucks I saw on the side of the road.
Seems to make sense to me. On the 6.0L's they add a line in between the bowl and the sensor to relocate the sensor away from the vibration & pressure spikes.
I would think Riff Raff would have them as well.
#40
My sensor blew out about a week after I installed it. ISSPRO promptly sent me a new sensor and the adapter (pictured below) at no cost to me.
I have since installed the 90 degree bend and it performs the same function. Great support at ISSPRO and **** happens sometimes, but how it is taken care of makes the difference.
I did mention this to Clay (RiffRaff owner) via email and he said he had not heard of this before, but appreciated me passing along the information with a part number.
I have since installed the 90 degree bend and it performs the same function. Great support at ISSPRO and **** happens sometimes, but how it is taken care of makes the difference.
I did mention this to Clay (RiffRaff owner) via email and he said he had not heard of this before, but appreciated me passing along the information with a part number.
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