Has anyone had experience using an air needler tool to take on rust etc. from a vintage truck chasis (1948 F1 pickup)..saw one on line from Harbor Freight for about $60 but maybe it's equivalent to using a nail file on a sizable project.

 

Needle scaling guns were designed for that. I've used them also for peening down welds. But they are not as good as blast media for a nice clean paintable surface. Hope you have a good air compressor, they really gobble the air.

 

Here's the one I have wish listed on Amazon. But they also have more expensive models.


12 hardened steel needles remove weld slag, rust, paint, and dirt
Speed: 4000 BPM
Air consumption: 4 CFM @ 90 PSI
Air pressure: 90 PSI
Carbon steel construction

 

I have used them in the military. Great for knocking off rust chunks and concrete hard stuff. You will still have to finish cleaning with chemical, sanding, wire wheel, or media blasting. Also welding slag and peening as mentioned already.

 

They work well like others mentioned. But they are extremely loud. You'll have to wear hearing protection and if you live in the burbs, your neighbors ain't gonna like it.

I used them at work to remove rust from the legs of the lage steel lattice powerline structures to repair them. When using one the rust particles go flying everywhere. We used to have to tape out safety glasses to our heads to keep rust out of our eyes.

 

Do the Harbor Freight specific models work great? I may get in trouble here for saying it but I've had very mixed results with HF air tools (or other tool super discounters). Keep your receipt if you don't buy a warranty. I had a DA sander, air file, die grinder etc last over 20 years and gave them to a friend that still uses them. Panel flanger and a couple air saws did not last 30 minutes. Nor did the replacements they gave me. Not a big deal if returns are convenient at a local store.

 

I used a cheap brand of one, at a 45 angle to remove factory undercoating (tar like hardened on) on a '59 beetle I am working on. tI was extremely effective . If the neighbours complained I don't know as I spent the day under the car, with full eye and ear protection. I started out trying to scrape /putty knife but futile. I coated the whole underside with POR-15 afterwards.


It would make short work of rusted area but you would have to hammer and fill the results. flapper disc or cutting out and welding would probably be better. IMHO




Tom

 

I have a HF one that works ok. I used it for rims. As mentioned...noisy. Also wearing insulated gloves makes it easier on the hands.

Edit: my HF one is also like the one listed on Amazon. Made by Chicago P.

 

I should mention I was referring generically to an air needle scaler. I never used a HF model. Re reading my post I can see it might have been misleading. I've had the same mixed results with just about any HF product.

 

I have never been disappointed by Harbor Freight products, but then my expectations of them aren't high either. My HF stuff works well.

 

I have used a needle scaler extensively in my shop. I have a Sioux scaler that I bought probably 25 years ago. here is a photo,

They are very good for cleaning rust and paint from heavy parts such as frames, castings, axle and transmission housings. Like a media blaster, they don't work well on soft grease and tar but, hardened stuff comes off really well. Heavy rust and thick paint comes off very easily. They are slower than media blasting but, it is a great alternative if you can't media blast or if there are assembled parts that you don't want to media blast. The metal will still need some prep with a wire brush after needle scaling but, it goes quickly as there is very little residue left. They work very well also for stress relieving cast iron as it is welded and if you grind the weld smooth you can blend the area with a needle scaler and completely hide the weld. Eye and ear protection are definitely necessary. I wouldn't want to be without one.

 

You are living right if you have zero fails from HF. I too have a lot of HF gear that works acceptably if not perfectly. Every now and then an air or electric tool that won't work right out of the box. I think they are a good choice for occasionally used tools. They are so inexpensive they don't have to last very long to "break even". But often a terrible choice if you are going to use it like a pro would. If you bother to research online it isn't too hard to sort out the good and bad deals.

 

[QUOTE=tip49;15843113]I used a cheap brand of one, at a 45 angle to remove factory undercoating (tar like hardened on) on a '59 beetle I am working on. tI was extremely effective . If the neighbours complained I don't know as I spent the day under the car, with full eye and ear protection. I started out trying to scrape /putty knife but futile. I coated the whole underside with POR-15 afterwards.


It would make short work of rusted area but you would have to hammer and fill the results. flapper disc or cutting out and welding would probably be better. IMHO


Tom,
Thanks for the tip. I am in process of removing tar like undercoat on another vehicle that I am working on. Where the tar is thinner, I can successfully use a scraper however, where the tar undercoat is heavy I can't effectively use a scraper. I do not have rust under the tar just original factory paint.

 

Used them way too much in the Navy. Even if it was the best tool for the job I don't think I'd use one lol. I do remember them working pretty good though

 

I have on of the cheap ones that attach to my chisel hammer and it works great, I've used it on a frame with good results but prefer a sand blaster for cleaner results.