When I filled that seam I stitch welded it then filled it, in case it should crack.

 

I don't remember the exact name of the panel bond that I used but it's very similar to the 3m stuff but the local body shop supply place has this stuff and it was way cheaper. They even let me borrow the applicator gun which was nice and saved me over $100 just on that. The roof line was solidly together I just didnt want the seem so after I spread the panel bond smooth and let it cure I ground it just under flush and used glaze coat which is a very thin bondo basically. It fills fine scratches and small voids. Sands nicely and finishes easy so that you can start primer after its final sanded.

 

Thanx for the explanation I was curious as to the product. I stitch welded my seams, I will finish polish than use filler and glaze when I get to the cab work. Just finished filler on hood and front fenders and will go to the four doors next, than the cab.

 

Well after torching off my axle brackets and disassembling the rear end I had a thought to check it for width in the truck since I've only gone off rough measurements as of now. So I put the axles back in and tires on and rolled the shell outside. Bottom line is as long as I don't lower it much lower than stock itll be fine. But since that ISN'T GONNA HAPPEN it looks like I'm going to have to narrow the axle at least 1" and if going 1 I might as well go 2" and make sure I have plenty of room and more wheel options.

So since that frustrated me a little I decided to finish my mock paint job on the little model '55 I got at the Turkey Run in Daytona a couple weeks ago.

Color isn't exact on it and the flat clear made the paint crackle a little but it gave me an overall idea of what I had in my head for a while. White will be gloss white and clean and the rest will be black primer, red oxide sealer and the stock color wet sanded through and cleared flat. Here's the model:

 

Pics wouldn't load on my phone or computer. I'm going to keep working at it.

 

This gives an idea of the final paint:


Would like to do these wheels in 20x9" and 20x12" but they're $1100 each. Ouch.

 

You might be dollars ahead if you pickup an axle from an Explorer, they are already slightly narrower the the stock differential .

 

This one already has the 3.73 gears I want and 31 spline axles. Won't cost me much to have it narrowed. I can do the tubes and will just have a local shop do the axles for me. Shouldn't be but $200 which will be cheaper than buying the axles, shafts and new gears. But that'll be a while from now.

 

That's the same gearing I have in this Explorer diff I have.

 

Explorers have 31 spline axles. Might be worth checking.

 

Yes I forgot to mention that.

 

Thanks for the info guys. What year, or group or years explorer should I look into?

 

Mine came out of a 98 , I think after 2003 they became independent.

 

I got a 2000 Explorer with 373 and disc brakes for $200 at a local yard. I had to put a new seal in the front, but not hard to do.

 

What kind of disc brakes come on those? Are they vented or just solid? Wondering if I could save these vented Vic rotors and calipers if I get an explorer rear and it has solid. Thanks.