EEC-V not EEC-IV? I need to learn more about tuning those stock systems using the tools available now. I haven't seen one yet is there any data logging available now for them that's cost effective?

 

I mispoke. Yes, the stuff I use will tune EEC-IV and V. IV is the only thing I have experience with. I'll do some checking on it for you if you tell me what you are trying to tune. The catch code off the PCM is best, but the application may be enough info. I have used Tweecer R/T but now use Moates Quarterhorse hardware. For software I currently tune and datalog with TunerPro R/T. Honestly, the learning curve was crazy and it's not for everyone but if you commit the time it is powerful stuff. I know guys that have put stock Mustang and Explorer EFI computers on about any engine you could think of. Those bin codes have been thoroughly deciphered.

To answer your question datalogging capability is excellent. Minimum cost for something that works well is about $275 I believe. That doesn't include a wideband O2 which I think is mandatory.

Apologies to jmast for the severe thread hijack.

 

If there was any way to get more power and "good" mpg, wouldn't the factory have done so. The old trucks on average are lighter, however, most of us are using old technology such as; no over drive with lock up converters, carbs and no computers to adjust engine constantly. My 460 mileage stinks compared to my 2011 Nissan Armada. The armada is nearly 1500 lbs heavier, but it has a 5 speed tranny, FI, and modern controls AND a nearly 2 liter smaller engine. If someone can tune my engine as is and maintain current power level with my C6 and 3.50 posi, to gain 3 to 4 more mpg...call me asap. Or guarantee same improvement with TBI after market FI, I'll start saving for one ...

 

Emissions regulations in particular NOx.


What's your current setup and my budget?

 

Looked into TunerPro, looks fantastic, exactly what I'd be looking for. Currently the only vehicle I have that would be appropriate for it is a 89 Crown Vic with a HO 5.0 and AOD. Only question I have that I haven't figured out for sure is if it will modify parameters for an electronic transmission.

 

460. .030 over
Aluminum heads 2.19/1.76 valves
At .500 224int/234exh. Gross .569 lift
Performer rpm with street avenger 770
Msd ignition with recurved duraspark dist
C6 with 2200 stall
3.50 gears
Budget 1k
I'll step out of the highjack...just wanted to give some real world input....again, biggest increase was with 2.75 rear...dropped about 800 rpms...mpg went from 10.5 to 13.5. ( as stated by others, build the engine to make power at lower rpms).....I did not ��

 

Not worried about the hijack, the OP has made 10 posts total and hasn't replied since the first post.

I suspect there's some MPG, drivability, and maybe some overall power to be had there. Biggest issue of course as you know is how much your spinning it, but that would be cheating to slow it down. So need to make it efficient at RPM. I don't know what ya got but I might start with cooling, electric fan, electric water pump, and possibly a thermostat change. Higher temp thermostat can help if you don't have heat issues like pinging, and with aluminum heads you can get away with more heat. Next and biggest change would be timing, I'm assuming ported vacuum to an adjustable can, idling near 14 and totaled at like 36? I'd suggest a MSD dizzy for the tuning ability and a recurved/tune to accompany a switch to manifold vacuum. One of the biggest advantages with the MSD is that the total vacuum advance amount is tunable, that's very hard to do with a DSII and very helpful with a switch to manifold signal. Then if budget allows and you don't already an O2 gauge then a better carb. An adjustable secondary, 4 corner idle, adjustable bleeds, power valve restrictions, etc. so likely a Quick fuel SS series. SS-Series Carburetor 780cfm VS SS-780-VS - Quick Fuel Technology Followed by hours upon hours of tuning.


There's more but....


Edit on the carb, what you have is pretty darn good the best carb Holley sells for your application, and I suspect you have it well tuned. But many small things can be updated instead of replacement of the entire carb. Tapping the air bleeds for jets, swapping out the metering blocks to get the restrictors. And the QF vacuum can has an adjustment screw to restrict the signal to better control opening. Probably a better bang for the buck with less disruption vs. buying a new carb.


Edit two on timing, this sounds wrong to most but you want to be idling in the mid 20s and cruising down the highway closer to 50. The way to accomplish this is manifold vacuum signal. This can be difficult to make work well but with the right tools(MSD) and your high stall it should work out well. The reason this is important is that we are talking about high vacuum, low cylinder pressure, and high RPM conditions. The flame front during highway cruise in this low cylinder pressure condition is quite slow, while at the some time the piston is fast, need to start that sucker early to get the best push out of the bang. This can be hard with the ported signal as the signal is both lower and coming in and out as you modulate the throttle going down the highway. The high idle timing gives you tip in low throttle efficiency much in the same way for all that putting around in traffic. In broad strokes I use four tuning numbers, ideal starting, the timing at which it starts best hot. Ideal idle, the timing adjusted for max vacuum at idle. Total WOT timing, this is typical max WOT timing. Max cruise timing, total WOT plus the difference between start and idle. Experiment to find the first three, adjust distributor RPM advance for the difference between starting and WOT total. Then tune vacuum advance for difference between starting and idle. From there compromises have to be made. For example if I want more cruise timing I'll lower starting timing, increase RPM advance to compensate for WOT total and increase vacuum advance to get back to ideal idle which will increase cruise total.

 

Yes it will adjust electronic transmissions, the more modern ones anyway like E4OD for sure. No idea on an AODE. And a few caveats. The car needs to have been factory equipped so the parameters are written in the Ford strategy file. (I assume yours is). The particular Definition File has to have been deciphered adequately so you can get to all the parameters you want. And judging from friends who runs a lightly modded (E4OD), it is one of the more difficult parts of a tune to get correct. Stock trans probably no real issue.

Example: I run a 94 Mustang. 94-95 use the CBAZA strategy. There is a PCM with a catch code T4M0 which is for a T5 equipped car. If I wanted to run an auto I would need to use a U4P0 PCM. Everything else would be the same.

Sound like a confusing PITA? It is at first. Aftermarket EFI is easier. Neutered some compared to stock in tuning capability, but easier and cleaner install.

 

Is this a lunati cam? If so I believe it is on a 112 LSA, this is a milder cam than the magnum 280.
Keeping the RPM under 2000 is the way to get any MPG with a V8, but when you build an engine with a cam that doesnt make power until 3000 RPM it doesnt make sense to run that slow.

 

Nice combo. Not a prescription for great fuel economy but we all do it. Obviously you don't want to get rid of your cool stuff and start over. I would get a wideband O2 and get the tune right as possible. Aluminum heads are generally forgiving. You may be able to lean the AFR and give it some timing at low load cruise. It's very helpful if you can actually monitor what you are achieving though. (wideband).

Stall converters really wake up an engine but are generally a problem when you start chasing mpg. (Not that 2200 stall is anything crazy) Any attempt to cruise at sub stall speed rpms are generally not rewarded with mpg. But 460 CI turning high rpms is bad news too. Sounds like you found the combo's happy place you can only find with experimentation. If I was consistently getting 13.5mpg with your combo I'd probably call it a win after I confirmed AFR.

 

It's a melling cam. I do run manifold vacuum also. After much frustration trying to set idle and tune with ported;manifold vacuum seemed to make it happier at both idle, and acceleration at speed. My recurved distributor and stall will be a match for the engine build.
I'm only going with the 2200 stall, because that's what it should have. Based on practicality, I would build it differently today. I'd push the torque peak much lower with cam and heads. Id have plenty of low end power and could better use a stock stall and leave the 2.75 gears in....I'd probably see 15 or 16 mpg and have more than enough power to still be having fun. Oh well, next time. For now, I'll enjoy the hell out of this peppy panel truck..lol
James