Most of the time code 32 is a bad clockspring:


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First of all SORRY for all my questions and THANKS for all the answers.


I'm a Mailman & currently working 10 hr days 6 days a week (not bragging & sorry for those out of work, I pray for you) so by the time I get home I'm worn out & a little fried. If it were any other time of year my brain would work better & I'd ask less questions. Trying to fix truck for son who goes to college @ Clemson 11 hrs from home.


Again TY all. I'll be looking at all the suggestions after Church & picking a X-mas tree @ a tree farm today.
I pulled most trim out of interior, pulled the alarm (only wire they cut was fuel pump cutoff switch & I rewired it temp style) and truck runs.

 

OK, looked @ truck again tonight. Here is where I'm at.
Checked my grounds in the engine compartment all are good.
Needs a clock spring to fix SRS code 32 (no horn & no cruise)
I bought an Actron OBD I code scanner at PB for under $20. Did KOEO test properly this time w/ a warmed up motor, KOEO Code 111, Continuous Memory Codes 212 & 542 (did it twice w/ same results). Didn't have my timing light but TRIED to do Engine Timing test by unplugging SPOUT by IDM (which is a grey one / not black) and starting truck, after idle settled I plugged SPOUT back in & RPM did not increase and did not get additional code 213 or 218 (as Actron manual suggested it would). Then I did the KOER test got code 111 after 3rd try of getting the timing right for the PSPS (P/S switch), BOO (Brake switch), OCS (OD switch), & WOT (Throttle) tests correct.
So I believe the Ignition Diagnostic Monitor/SPOUT is bad (and it's the wrong color?) any other test to do to make extra sure (other than finding my timing light & redoing test)?
Last thing is the transmission, still no speedo, no odo, od light blinking, and hard shifts. I took gage cluster out and found nothing obviously wrong other than a burned out illumination bulb. I'll put together tomorrow & reinstall. Is there anything to be looking @/for on cluster, harness, or gages? Where is the VSS (speed sensor) located? Are there any tests I can do to isolate the transmission problems or do I turn that over to a transmission shop? I have a guy I trust but would prefer to have him service the truck after I have it running right.

 

First off the transmission is more than likely OK. Hard shifts and od light blinking are normal when you have the speedometer not working.

The 212 code is because you have a gray ICM and your truck is not wired for a gray ICM and your CCD (Computer Controlled Dwell) PCM Computer is not meant to be working with a gray ICM. You need the black one as all OBS trucks from 1994 and newer have a CCD Computer that wired and set up for the black ICM.

Does your odometer light up when you turn on the the key to run?
If it does not changing the VSS sensor on the rear end will not help you at all.

The 542 code is normal if you grounded pin #6 of the self-test plug to test the fuel pressure. If you did not do this than most of the time it is from a bad fuel pump.

Yes most if not all SPOUT shorting bar jumper plugs are gray and not black. The change in the RPM may not have happened because your CCD PCM Computer has no idea what the Ignition system is doing with the missing information that it normally gets from the IDM. With a gray ICM the PCM sees no IDM information.
You are trying to use a Push-Start Ignition system gray ICM with a CCD Ignition system that only takes the Black ICM.

Note most part places will try to sell you the wrong gray ICM as there part look up system is wrong.

 

Thanks subford for all the help. I'm ordering a black IDM from RockAuto.com unless I can find one local. Took disassembled gage cluster to my transmission guy, showed him & told him what I have. He said put it back together & drop off after I replace IDM & he'll scope the PSOM & VSS to confirm if they are bad. If PSOM behind speedo he'll get me the part, if VSS said he'll let me get the part. Last get a clock spring. Prob order all 3 from RA.com . Let you know how this turns out in a few days.


THANKS AGAIN TO ALL!!!

 

Check the LG/Y wire in the speedo(PSOM) connector for power and the W/p wire for power with key on. If you get both voltages with the key on, then the PSOM is bad. If either one is missing then the PSOM WILL NOT power up. The VSS sensor in rear axle will no cause a dead PSOM.

 

Last night I replaced the IDM w/ the black one, cleared all codes, & did the KOEO test got 111 (all ok) for KOEO codes & 111 (all ok) for continuous codes, then I did spark test w/ SPOUT disconnect/reconnect (all ok), then I did KOER test got 111 (all ok).
Then I had a brain fart of an idea, pull the cluster from my OBS diesel & put in Flareside since they have same PSOM. Diesel cluster in gasser no good, gas cluster in diesel works fine W/ mileage on gasser @ 162+K. Took for a drive w/ diesel cluster in it, still no ODO, no Speedo, hard shifts, & OD light blinking. (still no dome lights)
Speed sensor???
I know I still need a clock spring for horn & cruise issues but I was so sure it was the PSOM.
ANYONE???


Subford, just reread your last post and have some ??? . Does your odometer light up when you turn on the the key to run? If it does not, changing the VSS sensor on the rear end will not help you at all. If the ODO doesn't light up what is the problem if it's not the VSS? If the ODO does light up IS the VSS the problem?

 

I think most of your problems will be solved once you get the dome light working.
I think you have a bad fuse and maybe a shorted wire in the dome light.
The VSS has no bearing on the odometer if it lights up or not.
Yes the odometer lights up when you turn on the key.

 

Did you get my last post with the PSOM wire diagram?

As the gasser Speedo works in the diesel truck , and diesel speedo do not work in the gasser truck , you got a wire issue to fix behind the dash of the gasser.

Even with good fuses, there is power missing at the PSOM connector. Please check for power at the PSOM connector. Also check for good ground to the PSOM too.

 

Eddiec1564, I'm not the best at wiring diagrams & thought your previous post was of the PSOM circuit wiring not the harness going to the PSOM / instrument cluster. Now that I realize its the dash harness I'll take a look at it. Thanks.
I'm going to try to find the problem with dome light circuit first then trace the instrument harness.
Some questions keep kicking around in my head. 1) Could the clock spring be causing any of this? (When I worked in the auto body business 10 years ago I never saw a clock spring do this.) 2) Could the seed sensor on the rear be causing any of this? (I'm thinking speedo, maybe, but ODO no.) 3) Is there a way to test the VSS off the truck? 4) If alarm didn't cut any of the factory harness (just tapped into it) could this still be causing the problems? 5) Is my truck that unique that no one else has had this problem before?
OK, I'll keep looking at PSOM harness for breaks & cuts. I'll also solder the wires that were tapped for the alarm & cover w/ heat shrink tubing or liquid tape. Thanks everyone for all the help. I know I haven't solved it yet but I'm slowly eliminating possible problems.

 

Take a loading test light and probe both sides of fuse #8.
You must get power on both sides of the fuse before the odometer will light up and the speedometer to work along with the transmission.


Fuse #8 Diagram:


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I'm not sure what a loading test light is, but I have two test lights 1 is conventional in that it lights white when circuit is completed, the other will light green when a positive circuit is completed and red when a negative circuit is completed.
When I checked the fuses I pulled each one and did a visual test to make sure none were blown. Then I used the 2nd test light to make sure the circuit was completed through each fuse with the key on and accessories on. I did this in both the passenger and engine compartments. So I believe it is a cut (or burned) wire in the harness. Let he fun of the hunt begin.
Thanks for the wiring diagrams, I'm sure they will help a lot.

 

A loading test light is one that has a incandescent bulb in it and not an LED.


I take it that not of the items that fuse #8 feeds in the diagram above work.



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So, after a long afternoon of removing the steering column, most of the rest of the dash, and everything else in the way of accessing the back of the fuse box, I found that fuse 8's wire was ripped out of the back of the fuse box. The wire was black not LG/Y at fuse box. I plugged in the speedo, turned on ignition switch, touched wire to hot bar on fuse box, and I got an ODO & glove box light (I had removed door switches & dome light previously looking for a short or cut wire). SO, I think I'm done w/ this beast, just have to put it all back together & get a clock spring for SRS code 32.


YEAH!!! Thanks for all the help, I'll update after it is all together & working. Next registration, insurance, inspection, & maintenance. Then local driving before my son takes to Clemson, SC for school

 

Good to hear you found the problem!!


Its sure not fun chasing down wire problems in a truck. But I do that all the time in buildings for burg and fire alarm systems. Chasing down a open ckt or ground fault in a BIG building is not fun at all...