OEM or Redhead
#16
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#18
Wow, I saw your post Sean and wondered why you were linking to another site for steering box adjustment when I've posted it over a hundred thousand times here on the forum (I just counted each post and it was actually 100,001 times to be exact... ) and have also posted a link to the instructions in the tech folder, when upon further investigation I realized there isn't a link in the tech folder!
What the heck...how could THAT have fallen in the cracks?
Oh well....rectified!
Stewart
What the heck...how could THAT have fallen in the cracks?
Oh well....rectified!
Stewart
#20
#21
#22
#23
Give me a minute, Looking for that link...(or set of threads covering the topic).
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/042601.pdf See section on Steering gear mesh load adjustment. 1/4 turn, then tighten and drive re-test as Michael recommends. Not implying you have oscillations, but the step by step instruction is described there.
That's a great observation Stewart.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/042601.pdf See section on Steering gear mesh load adjustment. 1/4 turn, then tighten and drive re-test as Michael recommends. Not implying you have oscillations, but the step by step instruction is described there.
That's a great observation Stewart.
#24
#26
#27
I went OEM because it was covered under an extended warranty. I have no complaints. If steering performance is what you seek to improve, beyond the obvious parts already suggested, deal with the rear. The rear steer on the bugger was my biggest issue. When you put on a new steering gear, it will still wander. The steering will be more sensitive which can be even more frustrating trying to delicately correct for the wander...at least that was my experience. Hellwig Anti-sway bar, radius rods and roadmaster active suspension fixed me. Some change to different code swings..point is, if it wandered before, the new steering gear won't make it a lot better.
#28
I went reman OEM. Reason being, the remans seem to have fixed the issue that wears out on the factory part. I guess instead of running the pinion shaft in a machined cast bore, the remans bush the bore for extended life. That was good enough for me. Plus the fact that a mechanic friend had some bad aftermarket parts to replace after not so many miles. Extra money for fancy paint is no way to live.
#29
copy paste direct from Fords website
"Gear housing that does not meet stringent inspection standards is replaced with new original equipment gear housing – no sleeved gear housings are used"
https://www.fordparts.com/Products/S...Gearboxes.aspx
.
#30
Our plow truck has an OEM box that was installed the same time the plow was put on.
It has been a good box however within the first couple years the top cover cracked in half where the adjustment stud and nut are. I replaced just the cover and no problems since.
A guy could get a bad box from anywhere. I am sure if there were group buys from OEM there would be a few bad apples as well. How easy and painless the exchange after that makes a difference for some.
It has been a good box however within the first couple years the top cover cracked in half where the adjustment stud and nut are. I replaced just the cover and no problems since.
A guy could get a bad box from anywhere. I am sure if there were group buys from OEM there would be a few bad apples as well. How easy and painless the exchange after that makes a difference for some.