Recent Hutch Mod..Now I have some concerns
#1
Recent Hutch Mod..Now I have some concerns
I did the Hutch and Harpoon mods to my truck last weekend at the GTG. Because I didn't read the instructions and the parts that I was gathering I ended up having to put a "get me by" Wix inline filter til I was able to secure the AN fittings for my Riffraff inline filter. As I got to my house it seemed as though it didn't have too much power any more after the almost 2 hour trip back home. I did stop at a Shell station to refuel since I had almost emptied the tank in preparation to drop it that weekend.
We also did the hpop non serviceable plug and got a new gasket.
Over this past week it has performed ok but it has a noticeable tick at idle once the motor is warm...the kind a thing an owner would notice. The power level is not where it should be. On Friday I basically had to limp to work. I had a vibration from the motor at about 40 mph that lasted til I hit about 55. Once I hit the freeway the truck struggled to get over 55 even pushing the accelerator to the floor. I pulled off to the shoulder and shut the motor off. I made to work basically surfing the exits so I wasn't driving too much freeway. It was a little better on the way home and I have now swapped in the Riffraff filter in place of the Wix. Went on the test drive so I could make sure I had no leaks and fortunately there are none. However at WOT the truck seems to hang on to 2 gear for a long time and feels as though it just doesn't have enough to make the shift to 3rd and when it finally does it is a very hard shift. On the first run, immediately following the WOT run the truck ran really rough with no power forcing me to the side of the road where it shut off. I waited about 3 minutes before restarting and making 3 more WOT runs...all with the same hesitation to reach 3rd gear and loss of power afterwards.
I don't have AE to try and get deep into what's going on, I just have Torque Pro.
Here is a screen shot of what I have going on after the WOT runs and letting the truck idle for about 5 minutes. I notice the IPR seems a bit low going between 9.3 and 9.7. I did unplug the ICP sensor with no change in how the motor run even on the WOT run. I'm leaning towards replacing the CPS and IPR. I'm also going to do the fuel bowl filter as soon as I get an oem cap. The only other thing I can think to do is check the grounds since we pulled and cleaned them but I'm 99% sure they were tightened back properly. We also did my EBS and line....had a lot of coking in there but I'm sure those were put back on right too.
After that I'm at a loss for what to check next. Any ideas where to look next?
We also did the hpop non serviceable plug and got a new gasket.
Over this past week it has performed ok but it has a noticeable tick at idle once the motor is warm...the kind a thing an owner would notice. The power level is not where it should be. On Friday I basically had to limp to work. I had a vibration from the motor at about 40 mph that lasted til I hit about 55. Once I hit the freeway the truck struggled to get over 55 even pushing the accelerator to the floor. I pulled off to the shoulder and shut the motor off. I made to work basically surfing the exits so I wasn't driving too much freeway. It was a little better on the way home and I have now swapped in the Riffraff filter in place of the Wix. Went on the test drive so I could make sure I had no leaks and fortunately there are none. However at WOT the truck seems to hang on to 2 gear for a long time and feels as though it just doesn't have enough to make the shift to 3rd and when it finally does it is a very hard shift. On the first run, immediately following the WOT run the truck ran really rough with no power forcing me to the side of the road where it shut off. I waited about 3 minutes before restarting and making 3 more WOT runs...all with the same hesitation to reach 3rd gear and loss of power afterwards.
I don't have AE to try and get deep into what's going on, I just have Torque Pro.
Here is a screen shot of what I have going on after the WOT runs and letting the truck idle for about 5 minutes. I notice the IPR seems a bit low going between 9.3 and 9.7. I did unplug the ICP sensor with no change in how the motor run even on the WOT run. I'm leaning towards replacing the CPS and IPR. I'm also going to do the fuel bowl filter as soon as I get an oem cap. The only other thing I can think to do is check the grounds since we pulled and cleaned them but I'm 99% sure they were tightened back properly. We also did my EBS and line....had a lot of coking in there but I'm sure those were put back on right too.
After that I'm at a loss for what to check next. Any ideas where to look next?
#4
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Asheville-where weird is
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Before you pull the HPOP, what is the max ICP and IPRDC% that you see on a WOT run?
Does it sustain that pressure?
Change your fuel filter before you pull the HPOP.
Check your fuel flow. Where are you monitoring the pressure from? Pre-filter or post filter? You can have good pressure and minimal flow depending upon where the fuel pressure is being monitored.
Does it sustain that pressure?
Change your fuel filter before you pull the HPOP.
Check your fuel flow. Where are you monitoring the pressure from? Pre-filter or post filter? You can have good pressure and minimal flow depending upon where the fuel pressure is being monitored.
#6
#7
We did lose the springs that were in the check valves and reassembled without them. We had read where they were not really necessary so we just left them out
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#8
Damn the luck. I'm no expert but I was watching this this morning. at about 6:45 he talks about that spring and disk. I was thinking that spring was on the loose for a while and the disk may have been lost???
I'm thinking about ordering new HPO lines so I'll be interested to know how this shakes out.
I'm thinking about ordering new HPO lines so I'll be interested to know how this shakes out.
Last edited by TXdoug; 11-28-2015 at 08:31 PM. Reason: forgot the link
#9
CNC makes some nice HPOP lines that do not require the spring and disk. As a matter of fact, in the line description they say that the spring and disk must be removed.
CNC FABRICATION 7.3L SD REPLACEMENT HPOP LINES - 99-03-ENGINE - POWERSTROKE 99-03 - Products
I just bought the HPx line from them and it is of superior quality.
CNC FABRICATION 7.3L SD REPLACEMENT HPOP LINES - 99-03-ENGINE - POWERSTROKE 99-03 - Products
I just bought the HPx line from them and it is of superior quality.
#10
CNC makes some nice HPOP lines that do not require the spring and disk. As a matter of fact, in the line description they say that the spring and disk must be removed.
CNC FABRICATION 7.3L SD REPLACEMENT HPOP LINES - 99-03-ENGINE - POWERSTROKE 99-03 - Products
I just bought the HPx line from them and it is of superior quality.
CNC FABRICATION 7.3L SD REPLACEMENT HPOP LINES - 99-03-ENGINE - POWERSTROKE 99-03 - Products
I just bought the HPx line from them and it is of superior quality.
Now I am really curious about the function of the spring and disk.
#11
#12
#13
Ok so here is my torque pro app showing my KOEO this morning.
Also I do have the HPx line in my truck but that was there prior to the accidental deleting of those springs.
Also I have an aftermarket fuel filter cap that has a plastic nut on top....will that work with my Motorcraft filter or will I need to get a new one from the dealership?
Also I hear a strange gurgling noise while the pump is operating. Could it just be it pulling fuel in to that Riffraff inline filter?
#14
Your battery has low voltage for KOEO and it's good to see the EBP and MAP are reading together.
I don't think there is a need to worry about the springs and discs being deleted and having an HPX. The only potential negative is slower start, but I haven't witnessed this myself.
You will need a new fuel bowl cap to work with Motocraft OEM style filters. Diesel O rings or maybe RiffRaff has them for less than a dealer.
The gurgling is probably the filter. I will hear this if the truck has set awhile, but it goes away once the fuel system fills up and the sound becomes a steady flow.
I don't think there is a need to worry about the springs and discs being deleted and having an HPX. The only potential negative is slower start, but I haven't witnessed this myself.
You will need a new fuel bowl cap to work with Motocraft OEM style filters. Diesel O rings or maybe RiffRaff has them for less than a dealer.
The gurgling is probably the filter. I will hear this if the truck has set awhile, but it goes away once the fuel system fills up and the sound becomes a steady flow.
#15
Your battery has low voltage for KOEO and it's good to see the EBP and MAP are reading together.
I don't think there is a need to worry about the springs and discs being deleted and having an HPX. The only potential negative is slower start, but I haven't witnessed this myself.
You will need a new fuel bowl cap to work with Motocraft OEM style filters. Diesel O rings or maybe RiffRaff has them for less than a dealer.
The gurgling is probably the filter. I will hear this if the truck has set awhile, but it goes away once the fuel system fills up and the sound becomes a steady flow.
I don't think there is a need to worry about the springs and discs being deleted and having an HPX. The only potential negative is slower start, but I haven't witnessed this myself.
You will need a new fuel bowl cap to work with Motocraft OEM style filters. Diesel O rings or maybe RiffRaff has them for less than a dealer.
The gurgling is probably the filter. I will hear this if the truck has set awhile, but it goes away once the fuel system fills up and the sound becomes a steady flow.
I'm gonna try the dealer tomorrow or Napa also looked to have an OEM style one.
How about the IPR? Does that seem about right for KOEO?