Hi everyone,

Like the title says, I'm getting started on my '66 Bronco Roadster and I thought I would share the journey with you all. I'm open to advice and opinions as I'd rather not repeat any mistakes that I don't have to. That being said, please chime in any time as I would love advice relating to drivetrain choices, steering components and brakes.

The Bronco
The Bronco is Springtime Yellow, numbers matching, original drivetrain, and has ~35k miles on it. It has been in my family since '67 and was sold new at my grandfather's Ford, Lincoln, Mercury dealership and then repossessed one year later. It's been passed down from him to my father and now to me. It's in pretty rough shape but I'm confident that I can bring it back to life.

My background
This is my second Bronco, (my first car was a fully restored '77 Bronco Sport) and I've been a car nut my entire life. I've been into off-roading, dirt bike racing and more recently Land Speed Racing. Still have my '11 Yamaha WR450 and I compete in LSR events in my 2012 Cadillac CTS-V Coupe (~600whp w/ 6-spd manual) whenever possible.

Final goal for my Bronco
I'm a firm believer in building or modifying a vehicle only after you've decided exactly what you want the vehicle to be good at. I've seen tons of people modify their sports cars with a goal of it being awesome at 1/8th mile,1/4mile,1/2mile and 1 mile events and the cars always turn out to be mediocre and the owners unhappy.

That being said, my goal for this truck is to make it drive better than new, dead reliable, and offer solid performance. When I say solid performance I mean specifically that I want to be able to cruise with ease at 70mph and be able to get to that speed quickly. I doubt I will ever add a/c to it and will probably not add top or doors for a while. It will be an occasional driver but not a rock crawler or a trailer queen.

Short term
-get it out of storage unit and into my shop
-change all fluids
-get the 170ci running again (hopefully just drain gas, new plugs, wires, carb etc)
-get brakes working safely & reliably
-pass state inspection
-drive it around while gathering parts for next stage

Medium term goals
-Fix rust issues with the tub
-Rhino Line interior
-new roll bar
-new seats & seat belts
-replace Dana 30 with a Dana 44
-replace steering components and add power steering
-replace suspension with a 4.5" lift system (want to clear 35's)
-upgrade to power brakes

Long term goal
-replace 170ci motor with ~450hp V8 (mild cam, reliable, pump gas)
-replace transmission with 5 or 6-spd manual
-install new wheels & tires 35x12.50x15
-repaint exterior
-install new bumpers (James Dufff winch bumper front & similar rear)
-install decent stereo (modern deck with 4-6 good speakers)
-drive the snot out of it and enjoy it!

 

Norm02,

Everyone has their own idea of what an early Bronco should be, and it's certainly a good basis for most performance mods. That said, cruising at 70MPH isn't likely ever going to be your Bronco's strong suit.

I'd suggest a 5 1/2" lift from Wild Horses - best thing I ever did to my 77 was add a 3 1/2" kit from Wild Horses! Your addition of a good 5 or six speed will be a must for highway cruising, and I'd seriously consider an Atlas transfer case.

450HP? I'd swap up to a stroker 351W, aluminum heads, and it will take more than a "mild cam" to make 450HP. Certainly it's a doable thing, just not your average performance rebuild. Roller cam, and EFI - that could be a $4,000 or 5,000 engine pretty easy, but with the other mods, it would be fun!

Dana 30 has to go - especially with 35's and high horsepower! I see a disc brake conversion in your future as well!

Have fun!

 

It won't be hard to get your driveline set up for 70 mph, especially with an overdrive trans and 35" tires. The 0.78:1 OD in my NV3550 would put the engine at 2150 rpm at 70 mph if I had 35s, and that's with my 4.10 axles.

The issues with 70 mph will be steering, brakes and wind noise. Urethane bushings, a not worn out steering box, attention to maintenance and good alignment will make the steering OK. As SDDL-UP said, disk brakes, at least in front if not also in the rear will be a must. A hydro-boost master cylinder might be a good idea too, especially with 35s (I have vacuum power with 4 wheel disk brakes on mine with 33s, and I sure wouldn't mind stronger brakes). Not much you can do about noise other than drive slower.

My Bronco with 3.5" lift clears 33s by a lot. I don't think I'd have any trouble clearing 35s. So you might want to consider a shorter lift, but that's up to you. I have drop radius arm and track bar brackets. It works fine on the road, but for more travel off-road I kind of wish I had a long arm. Youll need one or the other to get your alignment in.

I have an Atlas in my Bronco and I love it. But I wouldn't suggest it if you aren't doing rockcrawling. It has great low gears (which you won't need) and shifts nice, but it's expensive and big (hard to fit an exhaust past it). Well worth it if you'll use it, but not so much if you won't.

 

Regarding tires, you say you want 35" diameter tires. If you're looking at mostly road use you might want to consider narrower tires than the typical 35-12.50s. Narrower tires will track better at higher speed and won't hurt mileage as much (not that mileage sounds like a concern with your other goals). And a less aggressive tread like an all-terrain or even milder will reduce noise and improve handling.

By the way, here are pics of my Bronco with a 3.5" lift and 33-12.50s (as I bought it) and the 33-10.50s I have on it now.

 

Greatly appreciate the feedback. I'm a firm believer in sparing no expense regarding steering and brakes so eventually, it will have 4 wheel discs and maybe front Willwood 6-piston calipers. I'd like to have the quick ratio box, (won't be spending much time on difficult trails) so good steering will be a must.

I think I'll be happy with the 4.5" lift and I've been around long enough to know better than to go fast around corners. That being said, I do want the least amount of lift I can get away with but I want no rubbing at all. Suspension doesn't need to flex like crazy as it won't be seeing tough trails but decent high speed stability (70-80mph) is a must.

Being able to cruise comfortably at highway speeds and spank Jeeps/Ricers from red lights is a must. That being said, proper gearing and 400-450hp ought to be more than enough to get the job done. Would love a stroked 351ci and I probably shouldn't have used the term "mild cam" as it will take a pretty stout set up to make that power. Don't mind an aggressive cam, just don't want to sacrifice brake or steering performance. A set of REALLY good heads will probably be a must.

In all actuality, I'd love to have an LSA/TR-6060 (CTS-V motor and trans) in it but I'm not sure if it will fit. It would also involve some serious cooling mods (large h/x would be ideal) and no clue where it would fit. Will probably go N/A and enjoy not having heat soak issues.

All of the above said, that stuff is a ways out. First thing I need to do is get the 170ci running reliably and get the factory brakes working properly. That way I can at least move it around and enjoy it some between stages.

I'm hoping all it will need is to have the gas tank pulled and cleaned, carb rebuilt, new plugs, wires, oil change, and a good battery. The 170ci will to work for a while as the power train upgrade will probably done towards the end. That being said, should I station that plan or address the power train innthenfkrst stage?

 

For what it's worth - I say keep it FORD. No reason you cannot achieve all of you goals with an all Ford drivetrain, and if you want even more power you can swap up to Cleveland style heads! A good sounding 351 will keep the ricers and Jeeps with their tails between their legs!

I wouldn't worry about six piston calipers - you'll likely overpower your rubber with a dual piston caliper! You'll want a limited slip differential at least in the rear.

As far as order of modifications, I'll be no help there! My next one will start as a frame-off resto-mod.... But I'd suggest the suspension first! LOL!

 

Have to agree. Things start going south with anything over 3 1/2" lift and 33's for a street driver. The higher the center of gravity makes even quick lane changes dangerous. Invest in a good roll cage, not a roll bar and full family cage if you plan on hauling extra passengers.
Only thing reusable will be the body and frame with your plans. That much power will need the whole drive train beefed up with larger axles etc. Any 28 spline parts won't take that power for very long. Should be a nice build.

 

Great catch! A cage also gives mounting points for shoulder harnesses. And high-backed buckets give more protection in a rear-end. The ability to add all of that to the back seat (as well as more leg and shoulder room) is why I went to a Bronco from a CJ5. I didn't feel good hauling my sons around in the back seat of the J**p without those safety features.

(Showing my high-backed seats, cage and shoulder harnesses early in my build)

 

One thing I have to at least mention. If it truly is an original U13, you have a rare Bronco only made three years., and hard as hell to find. Given it's history in the family, I would have to at least consider bringing it back to it's former glory and finding another one to build the way you want.Roadster U13 | 66-67-68 Ford Bronco U13 Roadster Enthusiasts! Just a few to look at.

 

2X the last comment (gfw1985).

These things are appreciating faster than many other items (even gold is dropping currently)..
Visit Rodster U13 as suggested.
W/restoration (I've seen some concourse grade) you could make a pretty penny to use on the kind of project U seek - get a lill better specimine to start on, learn more contacts/vendors/owners in the process, refine the plan you wish to produce (a bronk race car, esp w/lift is a tough one). Solid landing on application, well researched & time consuming plan to meet that app, and adhearence to that plan throughout build (no mid build major changes) can benifit the results.

For me ur best comment is:
"...believer in building or modifying a vehicle only after you've decided exactly what you want the vehicle to be good at…. always turn out to be mediocre and the owners unhappy. …"
and
"numbers match"
I'd say look at the ford six site, may be get the "Performance Handbook" and have some fun as you sharpen up what you have. If you go to classic broncos site you'll see how some have lowered the bronk for better st. handleing & still get off rd.
BUT - all this is from someone who likes non-radical up-grades that outfit a rig to better meet it's original design. A lill different than ur orientation.

"...I'd love to have an LSA/TR-6060 (CTS-V motor and trans) in it…"
Hey, What about that new Cady (is it?) AVT? Awesome. The $61 - 73,000 is not far off from the concourse correct U13...

 

My '77 had original fenders and was all original in terms of being unmodified. Going for a different experience with this truck and the fenders are already cut out. Not going for cosmetic perfection, more interested in mechanical perfection and then much further down the road I'll throw down on a nice paint job (will repaint original color) and trim items.


The 170ci is a great little motor and it will be one of the last items to be replaced as I want to enjoy driving it around as soon as possible. That being said, I want to be able to easily cruise at 65-75mph which I don't think the 170ci will ever be able to do turning 35s.

The ATS-V is a fantastic car (I work at a Cadillac dealership) but I like my CTS-V better in terms of straight line performance and sound. The TT V6 is cool but it doesn't sound as good as my pullied LSA exhaling through long tube headers.
CTS-V Sound clip:

 

It looks like you've got the factory PTO winch. I'd keep the Dana 20 transfer case if that's is the case! A certain "cool factor" there for me at least.

 

I picked it up from storage and brought it home 2 weeks ago. So far I've pulled off the carb, and gas tank so that I can clean them out and rebuild. I've also used about 4 cans of engine degreaser on the engine!

This weekend I'm planning on turning over the engine by hand, installing new battery, installing rebuilt carb, installing cleaned out gas tank, new air cleaner and new fuel lines.

If there's enough time left, I'll change the oil, install new spark plugs and wires and then see if it will start. If it starts, I'll then flush out cooling system and then watch for leaks, high water temp or low oil pressure.

Say a prayer for me!




On the trailer and heading home!











170ci of fury!








Lots of work to do!

 

to me it wont B a bronk when ur done as outlined
AND
ur pickin the wrong one to do it to.
(BUT I'm over 60 y/o & been w/the broncos 33 yrs)

A U13 like yours is worth alot more goin toward restoration (today they aren't even paintin 'em - orig paint is bringin in more $) than "race car". Fella put a che**y 350 in my wolwo 240 wagon when sold - same thing - a brick hurlin down the road.

Good Luck,
Keep us informed as you go along!

BTW: not sure how long she sat or in what condition but if U can ck the valve train 4 loosness that's a better idea than gummed up and stuck. Same for other oil passages.
That 170 is a lill tractor!

 

I appreciate your opinion and for taking the time to reply. That being said, I'm not really sure what you mean by "it won't b a bronk when ur done as outlined." It's still going to say Ford on the grill, have Bronco written on the sides and an all Ford Powertrain. There's nothing that I'm doing to my Bronco that many people before haven't done before and I highly doubt anyone would consider their vehicle to not be a Bronco any more because of a lift and a V8 swap.

As previously mentioned, I've already had a fully restored Bronco ('77 Bronco Sport was my first vehicle when I turned 16) and it was fine and dandy. With that said, I kept the stock suspension on it and the uncut fenders too so at this point, I feel as though "I've been there and done that."

I'm fully aware of the fact that it won't be worth as much when I'm finished with the build I have in mind as it would be if I did a complete restoration to it. That's not a concern of mine as I will not ever sell this truck and I'm not building it to sell and make a profit. I'm building it for me to drive and enjoy as often as possible.

Once again, I appreciate everyone's opinion and suggestions regarding how to' or tips for achieving the goals I have in mind. This truck is going to be incredible but still tastefully built when I'm done with it.





My '77 Sport