Stock 4x4 axle v.s. straight axle for 6 in lifr
#1
#2
The TTB will need a caster/camber alignment if you lift it. The POS changes camber if you so much as put a lot of weight in the bed or even just driving in reverse. And I'm sure it will need aligned more often than it already does once a lift is installed.
If you can do it I would go with the straight axle.
If you can do it I would go with the straight axle.
#5
My opinion - It really depends on what you want to do with the truck. Pavement pounder + have a buddy who has an alignment shop = TTB lift. If you're going to actually wheel it in anything more extreme than a dirt road, solid axle.
I went with a Skyjacker 6" kit back in the late 90s/early 2000s. It installed fine, rode fine, and was good for what I needed at the time. The problems happened later on down the road, after actually wheeling it. The passenger drop bracket (which mounts the driver side pivot beam) is considerably long, and put enough stress on the frame to eventually cause cracks to develop, which threw out my caster angle, and caused all sorts of death wobble. I fixed it, and it was fine for several more years.
Based on that, I would go with any suspension lift that has extra reinforcement of the cross member where it attaches. I think newer designs address this.
But, ultimately, I swapped everything out for a solid axle. And if you do swap axles, you may have to regear to get the front and rear ratios to match. Perfect time to swap to lower gears all around, if that's the case. If I had to do it all over again, I would do the solid axle first.
Luckily there's about a half million threads on solid axle swaps for this truck...
I went with a Skyjacker 6" kit back in the late 90s/early 2000s. It installed fine, rode fine, and was good for what I needed at the time. The problems happened later on down the road, after actually wheeling it. The passenger drop bracket (which mounts the driver side pivot beam) is considerably long, and put enough stress on the frame to eventually cause cracks to develop, which threw out my caster angle, and caused all sorts of death wobble. I fixed it, and it was fine for several more years.
Based on that, I would go with any suspension lift that has extra reinforcement of the cross member where it attaches. I think newer designs address this.
But, ultimately, I swapped everything out for a solid axle. And if you do swap axles, you may have to regear to get the front and rear ratios to match. Perfect time to swap to lower gears all around, if that's the case. If I had to do it all over again, I would do the solid axle first.
Luckily there's about a half million threads on solid axle swaps for this truck...
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william16339
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