I posted this in the Ford van section too, since it is an Econoline I am working on at the moment... But this forum is where i spend most of my time and since the principles of insulation and sound deadening are pretty much universal I figured it would get more traction here with us OBS guys who know a lot about noise/cold.

So I have actually been chipping away at this project for a while now and figure I would share my findings and results.

With Oregon winter upon us the flame has been re-lit under my rear to get the remaining insulation done in our van. My main objective when I set out on this project was to reduce road/engine noise and increase the R value overall. This thing is hard to cool down in the summer however holds heat relatively well when there is no wind... with wind.. different story.

Here is the passenger front door as Ford put it together:


After peeling off the plastic barrier Ford had installed, I see that they felt a 6" square was enough tar/butyl-paper to keep door from sounding like an empty beer can...


here is the product that I opted to use directly on the door skin, I've read so much about butyl/tar sound deadener that I could puke. After all of the banter I've read, and my previous experience with Dynamat I went down to the local Lowes to investigate the infamous "Peel & Seal" that i've heard so much about. My opinion is that unless you have bottomless pockets and can afford to buy whatever the flavor of the day is for high-end butyl, this will work just dandy. I have used Dynamat Xtreme many times and after using this, I won't go back. The price is too darn good and if the result is different I certainly couldn't tell.


After thoroughly cleaning the door skin with Windex and paper towels I installed the Peel & Seal on the entire door skin.


It has struck me that I got in a hurry towards the end of insulating this door and failed to take a picture of the next layer... I will post pics of the other doors to display my layering process.

 

So here is how I layered the doors and soon to be quarter panels on the van..

Starting from the door skin working inward.

1. Peel & Seal applied directly to the sheet metal (clean it well before applying!)
2. Reflectix radiant barrier spray glued to the foil side of the peel & seal (use 3M -OR- the best you can, this is not an area to cheap out - cheap glue will make you sorry that you even tred).
3. R-13 Owens Corning fiberglass insulation, this grade is thin enough to have room to breathe and do it's job without being smashed into the doors.
4. Heavy plastic vapor barrier taped with HVAC grade ducting tape to seal off the vapors/fiberglass into the door cavity. I bought mine at Lowes right next to the Radiant barrier.

I will try to show the layering process below, I am a spaz and kept jumping from door to door with my pictures but you will get the idea.

Relectix:


Door panel off


Cleaned with Peel & Seal installed


Radiant barrier glued in


Insulation installed and sealed/taped off


There will be more to follow, I've got the thing gutted now and I am working on the floor.

 

Looks like you have it figured out. The peel and seal is what I used on my floor. I am a fan of it.

 

This is actually on my to do list in my own truck, I've done this I'm my old car, made a huge difference.what did the butyl cost and how many sqft?

 

Looks great!

 

So far I've been using 6"x26' rolls because they're readily available and easy to work with around bolts and stuff. All said and done buying from Lowes here it works out to $1.28/sq ft. Total square footage is insane because it's a van but really not too spendy overall. I just installed it on the entire floor and installed 1/2" foam board. Result is a 14db drop at idle according to the app on my phone but I can here a big difference. Temp wise I don't know yet but it's got to be better. Sorry for the pic quality but I'm doing after work in my driveway.

 

Yup, it it hard to beat the price. Like you said 1.28 a sq/ft from lowes and dynamate is about $4.50 a square foot. It doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure it out

 

Dynamite is twice as thick but I have no idea if that translates into twice the sound deadening?

 

It all comes down to adding weight to a tin can. It really doesn't take a lot of weight to make a huge difference

 

Yup, as MOOSE_MACHINE said above - I don't see any audible difference between this stuff and the dynamat xtreme that's I've used in the past. The real sound deadening is in the additional layers, the peel and seal cuts down the resonation and tinny-ness a LOT.

 

That's a big 10-4

 

This was my thread on soundproofing:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dproofing.html

 

I'm actually looking into a spray/roll/paint on product called "spraydead" for my truck. Seems like spraying it on will net me the most consistent results. As far as uniform thickness and hot it looks in the truck.

 

I just went with some spray in heat and noise reducer on the firewall, floor and rear of cab. I figure when I put the Cummins in I will need all the help I can get.

Peal-n-seal will be going in the doors

 

That was a serious undertaking there! I thought I was in deep on my van lol! What were your results when you were done? Did you notice a large difference?