I know that those of us who understand physics disagree with most other people, but adding weight to the front end to help with winter traction is a bad idea.

If the concern is just driving the truck (not towing or pushing a plow), what matters is the percentage of weight that's on each axle. If you have too high a percentage on the front axle you'll just spin your rear tires in 2WD and you're more likely to swap ends in a stop (although RABS essentially eliminates that). If you have too high a percentage on the rear axle then you plow out straight when you are trying to turn.

So the only reason to add weight to the front is if you have too much weight on the rear. And since you already added weight to the rear it means you added too much. You could be just as effective and get better gas mileage if you only added the weight to the rear, but didn't add too much.

By the way, that's why adding weight behind the rear axle is best. It actually reduces the weight on the front axle so you don't have to add as much weight for the same benefit.

Having said that, adding weight by laying a plate in the entire bed, as Brad and Blue do, does have it's advantages. As Brad noted, it takes up no space. And as Blue noted, it stays in place (a weight at the rear of the bed like I suggest is DANGEROUS if not well restrained).

Also, my statement that it's percentages that matter is in regard to just driving the truck. If you need the truck to pull or push something you need the entire truck to be heavier while still keeping the weight distribution correct. So if that's your goal you will need to add weight to both axles.

 

am I right their 100 ponds each I can't remember

 

I just put a cap with ladder rack for the winter. It is around 600lbs and is bolted on so it should do something. Of course this will be my first winter with this truck so only time will tell.

 

it depends, different brands used different weights, and different weights for different years,

 

our tractor is an agco

 

they are most likely around 87 pounds

 

somewhere around there yeah

 

i have never claimed to be an expert on physics so i wont agree or disagree, all i know is that with my combination of single cab long bed and the 3/4 inch plate in the bed the combo is spot on, the *** doesnt try to pass and the front doesnt plow, it also doesnt spin the tires very much. another benefit that i like is that if i wanted to, it would be real easy to drill some holes and use the bed bolts as an extra measure in making sure the plate doesnt move.

 

Hey Todd, glad to hear the Hancooks are working for you. I just bought some for my 98 this fall. always ran Cooper AT3's on my 92 and they did good for me. I've always put 4 sand tubes way up front in the bed, then all my tools in after that. probably have 700 lbs. in. Haven't gotten stuck yet at some of the worst jobsites.

 

Agreed. I just run the road plate
1. so it cant move
2. so it takes up the least amount of space

 

NONE....I bolt the winter tires on my daily driver ford focus and drive it,leaving my 96 f250 sit so it doesn't turn into a rusty hulk. Would love to still be driving the truck in 15 years. Not going to happen the way they use salt and chemicals around here. Focus is good until the snow gets around 6" deep,which might happen only a couple times a year,then if other vehicles have already been on the road,a couple more inches isn't a problem. The problems start when I have to push snow with the bumper. lol

 

I really like the idea of the steel plate but I had the blocks already. Maybe one of these days I can pick one up, depending on what they cost.




"those of us who understand physics disagree with most other people"


I may be wrong but I've always thought for my truck (plowing snow) the ideal setup to maximize traction would be 50-50 weight distribution.






"NONE....I bolt the winter tires on my daily driver ford focus and drive it"


My daily driver is a Honda Civic, with good all weathers on it I don't even get the truck out until the snow is nearly 6" deep.




Todd