Had my truck checked on the rack today so that I can see if any change when the new king pins are installed. I scanned the results and don't know much on it. Anyone a front end reader ? Hope you can open and read. One more thing the front end guy was way young he had no idea about shims. Anyway the 0.04 on the right could be because of the worn king pins maybe.

 

I just did the same on my F1, asked for an analysis on the rack. Got it in spades, diagnosis on everything about the frame, springs, pinion angle and steering in 3D on an amazing CAD system. It was pretty overwhelming but brought down to advice on a few things by the guy who did it, who, nothing against youth, was of a certain age, like me, and specialized in vintage cars and trucks. Bob's Wheel Alignment in Charlottesville Pricey, but the voice of experience like that is priceless. Came away reassured and knowing exactly what to do, and having made a new friend. Sort of like getting to know the guys on this Forum....

 

OP, does your steering wheel return to center after making a turn? Does the truck track well while driving on a straight, fairly level road? The reason I ask is the caster is a bit low but if you're not having those problems I'd probably leave it alone. The cross caster will compensate for about 1-1/4" of road crown. Have the toe set, it's the most critical for tire wear.

Shims, or caster wedges rather, could be used to increase your caster. But remember, increasing caster also increases steering effort required by the driver. A couple degrees won't make much difference to the effort required but going 4 degrees will be noticeable. Going more positive than spec brings on other issues.

 

it tracks fine but does not center(new power steering). I am not doing shims until I get the new king pins in this week then go from there. I want to thank you guys for the info.

 

Your camber looks fine. You may want to increase your caster using shims. Cater will pull to the side with the least degrees, camber will pull the side with the most. I see that your camber is fine. I would install 4 deg caster shims, and set the toe at 1/8in toe in. If it pulls to the right, you may want to add another degree of caster on the right hand side. Good luck.

 

BTW, when you get around to installing shims it will be in your best interest to replace the u-bolts on the springs. Always replace them when replacing springs and with ~60 year old threads being loosened the threads are bound to take a beating. It's a safety issue.

 

CBeav what the hell does OP stand for I know about PO but what the hell. Anyway yes I am replacing the u bolts and nuts. I have seen bolts stretch and end up looking like a hour glass. I am doing all of the upgrades one at a time. Just got done with power steering next is king pins then down and smooth springs. A sway bar somewhere in between. The reason for each upgrade one at a time is to isolate problems if they do occur . Thanks for the input and info.

 

O.P would be you. Original poster.

 

They use rolled, not cut, threads and are "one time use" fasteners. That's not to say people don't reuse them, but I like to know what the rules are. Retorque after first 100 miles or so.

 

OP okay then I learn something everyday that is why I get up.. Now as the threads go rolled are the best cut is what it says cuts some meat out of the bolt. Off shore bolts i.e. fastenal are all cut. If you want american made bolt look for le on the head or n. L.E. stands for Lake Erie and N stands for Nucor. Bolts are really a one time use but we all use them more often once a bolt is torqued it is used to its stretch limit if you reuse it then you need to torque it more. One day maybe I will do a boltology on here.

 

No, we don't.

I'm not installing U-bolts from golly knows where made out of golly knows what either. These are the only thing holding the truck itself to the axle, wheels and tires.

 

I learned something today too. I had no idea you are not supposed to reuse U-bolts. I have done so many times over the decades if they aren't rusty to the point of pitting. About the only bolts I don't reuse are torque to yield fasteners. This hobby would get very expensive if you repurchased all the specialty fasteners repeatedly. Dealers aren't shy about charging several dollars per bolt for an automotive fastener.

 

If everyone used bolts just one time I would be retired. Yes fatfender all graded fasteners should be only a one timer. I am ordering new u-bolts today and also some shims. ok then I am on my way to Kansas City to see how many hangovers are around.

 

Art, 15+ years ago I was a Mac Tools dist. in Nixa. I covered SW Springfield, Strafford and Marshfield.

It could be wrong but Pop was in R&D at Ford on C4 & C6. He taught me that torque specs weren't a range but rather the higher spec was for new fasteners, the lower spec was for used. He said once a bolt and/or threads were stretched you didn't want to stretch them further, hence the reason for the lower value.

 

Cbeav where do you live now? A lot of the one use bolts are head bolts and as kids doing engines we never replaced the head bolts .