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Seems like I just ran a 3/8 tap through mine, been a while since I put one on.
I think, I did that but over lapping and cut new threads into M threads did not meet with my better thinking judgment.
If it was to ever strip and loosen up and throw a belt and mess up my shroud and radiator all while miles off hwy. off roading with out any other 4wd's to tow my sorry azz in for doing it half azz.
I remember now it did not feel like I wanted to put to much TQ while adjusting the belt, so did it my way.
It may have never pulled the threads but never wanted to know
I learned long a go best to do it right the first time saves redoing it a 2nd time in my book of learned mistakes.
Orich
I think, I did that but over lapping and cut new threads into M threads did not meet with my better thinking judgment.
If it was to ever strip and loosen up and throw a belt and mess up my shroud and radiator all while miles off hwy. off roading with out any other 4wd's to tow my sorry azz in for doing it half azz.
I remember now it did not feel like I wanted to put to much TQ while adjusting the belt, so did it my way.
It may have never pulled the threads but never wanted to know
I learned long a go best to do it right the first time saves redoing it a 2nd time in my book of learned mistakes.
Orich
Orich
There is plenty of meat to drill and tap for 3/8 in 8mm hole
I like the way you have that mounted. Do you have more pictures of that?
My (current) stock engine is just a (tired) old 240 inline six.
I had done the 3G upgrade years ago (around 1998), on a white 5.0 '90 Mustang GT I had. When the 60 amp alternator started going on the fritz in my '69 F100 a few years back, I knew I wasn't going to fool with replacing it with another 1G alternator. I got a 130A 2-hole case 3G from a wrecking yard 1994 V6 Mustang.
I didn't want to cut my original slotted alternator bracket so, I found two slotted brackets at the wrecking yard with the same identical numbers stamped on them as what was on my original bracket.
There's a 3G alternator wiring diagram on the net that has an illustration showing the inner end of the slotted bracket being lengthened (on the end that bolts to the engine). I didn't do it this way. I took one of the wrecking yard alternator brackets and cut the slotted end off of it and butt welded it to the slotted end of the other wrecking yard bracket to extend it.
I (initially) only had a single groove alternator pulley on the 3G, when I first installed it. I had some trouble with the belt slipping --especially on engine start up. I kept adding a little more tension on the new belt but it would still slip some. During this period of trying to get enough tension on the belt, I found a two groove alternator pulley and put it on. That stopped the belt slippage.
--IF you put a 3G on with a single groove pulley and the belt is slipping, DON'T let the engine run for long. Current will be trying to go through the alternator stator windings but without the armature spinning inside the stator windings as it should, the alternator will pull very high current and get EXTREMELY hot, within just 2 or 3 minutes time. The case will get hot enough to literally burn your hand if you touch the case. This can also fry the bearings as well as burn the alternator up.
I took the alternator apart, bead blasted and painted the case and I replaced the front and rear armature bearings. The brushes and commutator were all in good shape.
My 4WD 73 is wired to the hilt with (now) dual Optima batteries to power IPF driving lights, IODE fog lights, and inner and outer Eagle roof lights...
.. plus swap meet back up/work lights, LED rock lights by FireWire LED, daytime running lights (front by Autoloc integrated into the headlights, rear LEDs from Harbor Freight), a ignition control module cooling fan pirated from a dead PC power supply. I'm also running a four-horn system (Notes A,C,D, and F) from a Cadillac.
The rig is also slated to receive a 10,000 lb winch and air compressor.
11-21-2015, 08:04 PM
