Okay, so on your advice I took the plunge and upgraded the charging system. I had to pony up @ $150 for a rebuilt alt and plug for a '93 Taurus plus some cable, a fuse and fuse box.

Based on several diagrams I downloaded from FTE I got the thing wired up and installed and... it works!

One hitch was a threaded mounting hump, for lack of a better word, on the back of the alt. I had to grind that off to clear the head, other than that it bolted up just fine.

I was unable to find what readings I should be seeing on a voltmeter, though.

Thanks to everyone for all your help, you guys are the best!

 

The 3G alt should be putting out right around 14 volts.

 

That's what I'm seeing. Thanks.

What about with the lights on?

 

Should be above 14 with the lights on. Also even though most diagrams show connecting the yellow wire to battery that is not the most efficient way. The voltage sensing wire should run in the cab to the main fuse box. This makes sure the alternator compansates for voltage drop.

 

How do I do that? I ask because none of the diagrams I have found look like what I see in my truck. Do Camper Specials have different wiring harnesses than other trucks?

 

You can run the yellow wire anywhere and it will work. I, as well as many others, have it hooked directly to the charging lug on the back of the alternator. So really, only the green wire and charge cable run away from the alt. Very simple.

But running it to the main fuse box would probably help hold voltage more steadily. But according to my voltage gauge on my dash, it only fluctuates at startup until it gets spun up. Then it's 14-14.5 all the time.

 

Ouch I looked through two Pnp's yds and found a newly rebuilt one. I took to the a small Alternator/starter rebuild shop for testing.

With having dual batteries the both more then 8 yrs old, my volt meter showed 14.2-3 at start up. Then replace both batteries then at start up just about 14.1 then dropped to about 13.8 about 10 minutes after startup batteries fully charged there was lest demand to work the alternator.

So with good batteries it don't need to charge as long with fresh Batteries.

Orich

 

My '70 LBB gets 14.3 VDC at idle.... when low-speed of the Mark VIII fan kicks on it drops to 13.2 VDC according to the EFI app on the tablet. High speed has never been engaged.

 

I like to turn on everything and let it idle and watch the volts.

 

Hmmm, headlights, tail lights and trailer lights, aux LED lights, radio, CB radio, trailer brakes, heater blower motor.

I bet with everything on at once I'm way less than 130 amps haha

 

Coastal68 I'm in the same boat. I'll be installing a new one too, next week.

 

Just generic information for any alternator system. With battery fully charged note voltage, say 12.6. Now start the engine, turn everything on at once, including brake lights. You should see around one volt more than it was at rest. Anything much over 14.3 steady will eventually cook the juice out of your battery.
I get my 3G alts from the junkyard for $10.

 

Ah here in San Jose ca. at Pnp alternators go for $19 bucks then add core charge ? was 7 bucks.
Best to remove the internal regulator and check the condition of the brushes an the stator slip rings.

As you can't tell what the outer condition of a alternator but the cleaner it is more likely the newer it is. Plus spin the unit and listen to how smooth or noisy the run out is.

Take a paper clip with you was you can re-install the regulator as the brushes will need to be compressed before you be able to install the little regulator. Insert the paper clip into little pin hole that keeps the brushes compressed in it's fixture tray. Then insert back into the rear alternator tighten the little torx screws then remove paper clip

I also Redrilled the metric bolt hole out and put in SS 3/8 HeliCoil Thread Insert on the adjustment lock bolt to keep everything SAE standards.

Orich

 

Seems like I just ran a 3/8 tap through mine, been a while since I put one on.

 

Good Going!!
Congrats