Working the bugs out + DP and 6637 mod
#1
Working the bugs out + DP and 6637 mod
The family and I are pulling our 5000-6000# travel trailer to New Mexico for a winter trip. I've only owned the truck for about a month, and have less than 500 miles on it myself. It has oil EVERYWHERE, and the suspension is badly worn, but hey, 300,000 miles, I expect that.
So the last week, I replaced the radiator. The 2 metal trans cooler lines on the lower right side of the engine were worn, and I guess moving hoses on and off the radiator caused me to spring a leak, so I cut and flared and re-routed the rubber hose. I wanted to put a 205* T-stat, but couldn't find one locally, and didn't have the time to wait on an order. (NOTE: 2 auto parts stores gave me a short stem.)
I replaced the O-rings on the HPOP and lines, which led to the SD UHVC conversion, when I discovered melted connectors. At least now the head valley is clean.
Had to repack and tighten the front wheel bearings and replace front pads and rear shoes. That spring configuration in the rear is weird, and really needs a 3rd hand.
I installed a Baldwin PA 2818 air filter. Acquired a piece of 45* 4" angle from a muffler shop, and cut to fit. I also used some plumbers strap around the end of the filter, and to the air box bolt near the fuse box to kinda hold things in place.
I installed the diamond eye 3" down pipe. The old one fought its way out a little. I found removing the trans dip stick tube very helpful. Getting the firewall bent and the DP in wasn't bad. UNTIL, I started it and the DP was against the cab. WOW that's loud. So removing the DP was a real PITA, and then spent about 3 hours trying to get clearance. All in all, I spent nearly 5 hrs on the DP project.
I would still like to know what's up with the uneven idle on start, but another time I guess.
So the last week, I replaced the radiator. The 2 metal trans cooler lines on the lower right side of the engine were worn, and I guess moving hoses on and off the radiator caused me to spring a leak, so I cut and flared and re-routed the rubber hose. I wanted to put a 205* T-stat, but couldn't find one locally, and didn't have the time to wait on an order. (NOTE: 2 auto parts stores gave me a short stem.)
I replaced the O-rings on the HPOP and lines, which led to the SD UHVC conversion, when I discovered melted connectors. At least now the head valley is clean.
Had to repack and tighten the front wheel bearings and replace front pads and rear shoes. That spring configuration in the rear is weird, and really needs a 3rd hand.
I installed a Baldwin PA 2818 air filter. Acquired a piece of 45* 4" angle from a muffler shop, and cut to fit. I also used some plumbers strap around the end of the filter, and to the air box bolt near the fuse box to kinda hold things in place.
I installed the diamond eye 3" down pipe. The old one fought its way out a little. I found removing the trans dip stick tube very helpful. Getting the firewall bent and the DP in wasn't bad. UNTIL, I started it and the DP was against the cab. WOW that's loud. So removing the DP was a real PITA, and then spent about 3 hours trying to get clearance. All in all, I spent nearly 5 hrs on the DP project.
I would still like to know what's up with the uneven idle on start, but another time I guess.
#2
Oh, I meant to ask. On my short test drive, there is a bit of cab noise, I expected that. But, I really here the turbo now. Is that just part of the added exhaust noise, or is it really spooling that much more? It feels a bit stronger. Anyone have a guess what a 6637 mod and DP adds to power on a pretty stock truck?
#4
Oh, I meant to ask. On my short test drive, there is a bit of cab noise, I expected that. But, I really here the turbo now. Is that just part of the added exhaust noise, or is it really spooling that much more? It feels a bit stronger. Anyone have a guess what a 6637 mod and DP adds to power on a pretty stock truck?
#5
#6
Yeah but not by much. Cruising on a relatively flat grade it stays pretty quiet. I'll get some vid of me driving on the freeway with the windows up and a decibel count (free iPhone app).
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Had to pause for a moment and shed a tear when I discovered I have an open differential.
I had the fuel heater go out, and pop fuse #22. Took me a bit to put that puzzle together. Pulled the heater connector all is well.
Had to chase down a coolant leak from the back of the T-stat housing. Never woulda found it if not for the help of you guys.
I installed some 3 point gooseneck mirrors. Few lessons learned there, but it'll work. Bought 2 ford assemblies (one of which had a cheap aftermarket mirror, and it sucks) and a beat up bed tool box. Yard agreed to $70 but I only had 20's and they didn't have change. We tossed a coin and I won, so $60 bucks.. not too bad. Now if I could just find a mirror for under $50 shipped.
Made a bracket to hold my chip selector and EGT gauge.
Repaired the console lid.
Re-tinted the front windows. I'll leave that to the pro's in the future.
Made a "redneck repair" to the lumbar in the driver's seat
Pulled off the full length DeeZee running boards.
I had the fuel heater go out, and pop fuse #22. Took me a bit to put that puzzle together. Pulled the heater connector all is well.
Had to chase down a coolant leak from the back of the T-stat housing. Never woulda found it if not for the help of you guys.
I installed some 3 point gooseneck mirrors. Few lessons learned there, but it'll work. Bought 2 ford assemblies (one of which had a cheap aftermarket mirror, and it sucks) and a beat up bed tool box. Yard agreed to $70 but I only had 20's and they didn't have change. We tossed a coin and I won, so $60 bucks.. not too bad. Now if I could just find a mirror for under $50 shipped.
Made a bracket to hold my chip selector and EGT gauge.
Repaired the console lid.
Re-tinted the front windows. I'll leave that to the pro's in the future.
Made a "redneck repair" to the lumbar in the driver's seat
Pulled off the full length DeeZee running boards.
#9
#10
#11
Junk yard find. Agreed to $70, but all I had was 20's and they didn't have change. I won the coin toss and walked out for $60
Re tinted the front windows
3 point mirrors. The lower bracket is a bit low, so there is a slight angle on the mirror. I used 18" of 3/4" angle to rigidity on the inside of the door. I also flipped the Right and Left. That moved the mirrors forward, but with them in, I am looking through the vent window post on the Right side
The lid broke at the hinge. I used 5 min. epoxy and then JB Welded the remain cracks. Sanded and painted
TS 6 and EGT bracket made out of spare stainless. Just a quick job, not all that pretty.
Running boards off.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stroken02
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
20
10-02-2006 08:16 PM