Plus the new brake energizer tells you right away if no current going to brakes....and if current is wrong for number of wheels.

 

I like it......drive it like it was a rental.

 

I have a 2016 F250 6.2l I am averaging around 12mpg

To get the best MPG what do I need the hubs turned to? Auto or Lock?

 

Interesting...the factory brake controller or are you running an aftermarket?

Auto. That allows the hubs to lock and unlock as necessary; lock keeps them engaged which spins your front driveline all the time.

 

Well even the factory one does it too. NC means that trailer isn't connected or brakes are not working. ..if you have to set gain higher everytime you go out to stop same load....then brakes out of adjustment or one not working.

 

Anyone have opinions on this DuraMileage module from Dr. Performance? Recently bought one to try but haven't installed it. Claims 4-7mpg better and is apparently warranty safe.

 

Stuff like that is a SCAM. The only things you can do are drive the truck like it is, sell it if you that unhappy with the mileage or delete and tune it right and hope for 1 or maybe 2 mpg

 

Take that thing BACK!

Those things function by fooling the computer by altering sensor readings. I didn't see detailed install instructions, but I believe this installs in the circuit for the fuel rail pressure sensor. This fools the computer into pushing too much pressure to the rail in an effort to make more power.

There's absolutely no way in the world that I would risk a $15,000 engine replacement with such hackery. It's junk, don't let that thing anywhere near your truck.

 

You really need to define what counts as "rather poor" before anyone could answer the rest. Besides being illegal and therefore a lot more difficult to accomplish these days, how many miles for how much gain do you think you'd have to run for that very expensive project to pay for itself?

Kansas flats at 60 mph with cruise control? Or through the Rocky Mountains passing people?

13.4 lifetime average for a heavy and very powerful truck that's almost always towing or hauling something on each tank is pretty good.

 

2016 350 CC SRW 19,000 miles - almost never towing, almost always empty - lifetime mileage 13.3

 

Kansas flats at 60 mph with cruise control? Or through the Rocky Mountains passing people?

 

We live in the mountains of Montana but a majority of the driving is on in a valley that is basically flat with very little grade other than a few hills here and there. Our speed limit is 80 but I generally keep it down around 74 or under. No big hurry out here in God's country!

 

Where in Montana? I'm in the Bitterroot.

 

With a 2012 F350 long-bed crew cab Lariat, completely stock with about 450 lbs of cross box and Linex in the bed, I tracked mileage on two 3,200 mile drives via the OBD2 port and matched to actual gallons at the pump and actual miles. No towed load. Driving highway the whole way. No fuel additives except Ford cetane additive. Tires were recent All Terrain KO2's on stock 20 inch rims, no lifts or other mods. I had 4WD but never used it. Mileage was 36K before the two drives and the truck had a fresh oil change before each drive (I do change oil and filter every 5K with samples going to Blackstone for analysis each time). I was using a wired OBD2 plug going to a notebook computer with diagnostic software that was recording continuously.

First trip, I didn't reprogram the onboard computer and recorded seven regens, ranging from 8 to 14 minutes, despite driving pretty consistently with an exhaust hot enough not to need them. I had heard that a regen is programmed automatically every five hundred miles no matter how you drive, and this appeared to be the case. Mileage started at about 18.7 mpg and increased to about 21.3 mpg by about a thousand miles into the trip; mileages confirmed on actual fill ups. On long stretches where I could drive 85 mph versus 70 mph, mileage actually increased by about 2 mpg, to 23.2 mpg. During the regens, mileage dropped to 13.5 mph, which sounds about right if half the gas is dumped into the exhaust and provides no forward power.

On the second trip, I had the onboard computer cleared. This was to see how much its learning processes caused the truck to drive less efficiently when it started living on the highway in a different driving mode. On the second trip, mileage started immediately at 22.8 mpg and by a thousand miles had increased to 23.1 mpg. Interestingly, driving through four states at 85 mpg gave me a 1.5 mpg boost. This was similar to what I encountered towing, where the diesel actually drives more efficiently when it's hot and under load. I've had the same experience working with marine diesels as well. Regens occurred with the same frequency and had the same cost in fuel efficiency.

So all told, my mileage dropped to about 19.8 after factoring in the regens. That was basically wasted gas, because the regens were hard programmed despite the engine burning hot enough to clear the exhaust without requiring a fuel dump. I'm not sure whether this is a federal requirement or something Ford did to meet overall fuel standards (in local city driving I can see the need for forced regens), but on the highway it really costs mileage.

Those are just the numbers off the OBD2 port, confirmed with actual fill up and odometer data, and not relying at all on the dash mileage or fuel consumption calculators. I did find the fuel consumption tended to run about 3.5% higher than the dash fuel consumption calculator suggested, but got more accurate with longer continuous highway mileage under its belt.

For general reference, my city mileage has pretty consistently run 15.7 mpg for the past 7-8K miles. Somehow the first tank of diesel (the one it came with) gave much higher city and highway mileage, making me wonder if dealers add something to make the customer extra happy as they drive out the door.

So in terms of actual monitored gas performance, this truck does a pretty satisfactory job on the highway. At least, I'm not complaining. If I were to do another long (several thousand mile) drive, I'd have the dealer clear the onboard computer so it starts learning fresh on highway driving and thus optimizes for highway speeds and loads. I noticed that the dash mileage-remaining calculator adjusted available mileage after a fill up so that when the truck was delivering more efficient mileage at highway speeds, it also was registering the same internally on the miles-to-go calculator.

 

Ok, what computer are you referencing for calculating the mileage? We had a '12 350 CC LB SRW and put 120k on it before buying this '16. Life long average was 12.8 according to onboard trip odometer