2005 Superduty,VT365 eng family no smoke-no start while eng cranking only
#16
#17
you guys have realy done well in the info given to me,i realy thank everbody that contribute to the information,but yet i can not get the truck runing,am confus and fed up with the job,is normal for slight oli coming out of injector top seal from all injector at engine cranking,so we have order the OEM software diagnostic to carry out all the test you guys had been saying,what is actual(Fuel Pulse Width) reading at KOEO or KOER? any help will be appreciated.
#18
If it is any quicker, a ScanGauge II can get you most of the readings that you need - $130 scan tool.
Or an Android Tablet or phone with a $50 ELM adapter and the TorquePro Application software ($5).
Just want to know that FPW is not 0 when cranking (reading should be 500 μ second or greater). Sync and FICM sync are the primary things you want to know now though, after the troubleshooting that you have already done. Since you are getting no white exhaust smoke when cranking (ie no fuel being added), problems like the Cam Sensor (CMP) or even a bad FICM (a FICM can be bad with good voltage) are some primary suspects, but we need to see the Sync info.
Can you find a working 6.0L and swap its FICM into yours, same question for a FICM relay? It is not a hard job. Also, a CAM sensor isn't very expensive, and I hate throwing parts at a problem, but you seem to be ready to spend some big money on diagnostic equipment - and it may not be necessary.
Here is a good tool:
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...14/V6C4001.HTM
Or an Android Tablet or phone with a $50 ELM adapter and the TorquePro Application software ($5).
Just want to know that FPW is not 0 when cranking (reading should be 500 μ second or greater). Sync and FICM sync are the primary things you want to know now though, after the troubleshooting that you have already done. Since you are getting no white exhaust smoke when cranking (ie no fuel being added), problems like the Cam Sensor (CMP) or even a bad FICM (a FICM can be bad with good voltage) are some primary suspects, but we need to see the Sync info.
Can you find a working 6.0L and swap its FICM into yours, same question for a FICM relay? It is not a hard job. Also, a CAM sensor isn't very expensive, and I hate throwing parts at a problem, but you seem to be ready to spend some big money on diagnostic equipment - and it may not be necessary.
Here is a good tool:
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...14/V6C4001.HTM
#19
Injectors should not leak at all. As bismic noted above there are several less expensive options than the Fords OEM IDS diagnostic system. I posted a link earlier to a list of operating values, click on it to open. Here it is again: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1424302615
#20
from Top-one
....is normal for slight oli coming out of injector top seal from all injector at engine cranking.....
....is normal for slight oli coming out of injector top seal from all injector at engine cranking.....
Alright, here is the ghetto way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.
To check your ipr and hp oil system:
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.
2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).
3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.
4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listed to where the leak is coming from while the IPR is closed.
When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.
Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.
2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).
3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.
4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listed to where the leak is coming from while the IPR is closed.
When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.
Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.
#22
#23
Thank you very much everybody that contribute to my post,i thank you all so much,bismic i need to order the scanguage ll but i dont no the programing which i opp you guys will help me out for that and whatever i found out after using the scangage i wil get you guys posted,cheer����������
ScanGauge II
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#28
with fcar scaner fault code is 221-4 "internal sensor voltage low" we buy nexiq servicemaxx***** code was 534-221-4 "idm relay voltage low,troubleshoot code i find out FICMLPWR no battery pwr,pin 8 in ficm 32 connector,pin 6 in 12 wayconnector has no batterty light too,so i tap current from pin 12 in 12way connector to pin6 in 12way connector and the light supply immediataly and fault code went away but the vehicle stil not start and it has no fault code(no any error code in pcm memory),well have decided to buy one of scanguagell but the programing is my problem or is anybody here can brief me the programming,to cut the story shut we quess to replace cam&crank sensor,ficm&pcm&glow plug wit new if is goin to solve the whole problem of not starting issue,i need everbody advise if i am right or not.
#29
Have you checked the 50 amp FICM fuse?
This is the fuse box in the engine bay.
Merry Christmas
Sean
6.0L Tech Folder
This is the fuse box in the engine bay.
Merry Christmas
Sean
6.0L Tech Folder
#30
Sean - good advice. He was advised to check the FICM relay in post #18 (as well as the Sync values) and we really didn't get any feedback on that, or the FICM voltages Ed suggested until the posted LPower info above. Hopefully he will check these components. I would just send the FICM to Ed though, assuming there isn't a good one locally to swap with.
OP - Youtube has several videos on programming the scangaugeII. Also, I don't think glow plugs are your issue.
OP - Youtube has several videos on programming the scangaugeII. Also, I don't think glow plugs are your issue.