On my way to the storage unit getting ready for my big move to my new house, a guy at the storage gate told me my truck was dripping, I thought it was the evaporator because I had my AC running. Turns out the water pump is toast. I was able to limp back home and park it on the street right in front of my house.

Here's the kicker; I need the truck so I can move stuff to the storage unit even though I have a spare vehicle for daily commuting. I work nights so I have daylight to work on the truck, although the downside is I am home with an 8 month old during the day. So I can only get some work done while he is napping.

Any tips on getting the pump replaced in a timely manner?

 

I learned the hard way that the timing cover should come off for the water pumps, and the timing cover and water pump should be assembled on a bench, then installed as a unit.

Then your into the seal on the oil pan, which calls usually for a timing chain on any truck over 100k.

Anything quicker leads to timing cover coolant leaks at the block.

Its straight out the Ford service manual by the way, not Haynes.

 

First thing, pull the radiator so you have room to work and a place to sit.

A Gearwrench (7/16"?) is a real help with the fan clutch.

Some mechanics wire, industrial zip ties or coat hanger will hold the steering pump, alternator, AIR pumps out of the way.

Get a water pump backing plate *before* you start.
If you don't need it, Great!
But if you do, azz deep, covered in gunk is NOT a convinent time to find out its pitted full of holes, or run for parts likely not in stock.

Take a piece of cardboard and sketch the waterpump.
Stick the bolts through where they belong so you don't mix up the lengths.
(Don't miss the one tucked under the inlet)

 

Take it to a shop?

You'll want to make sure you have everything you need. Pump, two gaskets, rtv, coolant, and paint at a minimum. Some PB blaster will help. Some of the bolts go into the water jacket. If you break a bolt, you may end up having to remove the timing cover too.

You'll have to remove the alternator brackets because they bolt to the pump/ interfere with pump bolts. I think you can use extensions to get the bolts around the other brackets.

You'll likely have to clean the back plate between the pump and timing cover. Mine was severely corroded when I did mine. Ford Racing makes a replacement. You may want to replace the bolts too if they're badly corroded too.

Provided everything comes off easily this should take a few hours at most. You're worst enemy is a broken bolt, because they go through timing cover; and when they break they do it flush to the block. That's what happened to me. It took me four days to replace my water pump, timing cover, and the rest of the cooling system last Thanksgiving.

 

Haha! I can't afford shop prices right now. We put out 20k to pay off credit cards, do work on the house for sale, and to open escrow on the new house. Needless to say I'm tapped out till the house sells. Parts I can afford however.

 

The advice posted above is sound - take your time with the water pump bolts; if they feel like they are giving out slow down. Use a steady touch and even pressure on the wrench/socket, PB Blaster and even some heat if needed to ease them out. Hopefully none break for you and you can be back on the road same-day. GREAT idea on the cardboard mock up for tracking 'which bolt goes where'...!

 

Just take your time. While you have the pump off flush the engine block. Do Remove the Radiator.

 

Second on the advice above being sound. Just a thought considering your situation. Park the truck, rent or borrow a truck from where ever, and fix your truck after you get through the move. My personal experience with water pump replacement has gone two ways - 2-3 hour breeze and weekend of aggravation and frustration. Consider the cost and stress of tearing into the project only to not be able to finish it before your move. If you are not moving locally this may not be possible really, but I thought I would throw it out there. Whenever you get into the project I recommend a Motorcraft or other high quality pump as you don't want to be in the same boat any time soon. You don't need a "high volume" pump, just get a quality oem replacement.

 

Be SURE to use sealant on bolts that go into the block.
I use Loctite PST.

You're going to want a real gasket scraper, and maybe a large ******* file to clean up the mounting surfaces.
If you have air, a Roloc disc in a right angle grinder is much quicker.

 

Some advice on stubborn bolts:

Have PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil on hand BEFORE you start. Note that WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil.

Have a torch ready if possible. Even if it's a propane torch, some heat is better than no heat at all.

If you are easily aggravated, have beer or other remedy on hand as well.

It goes like this...

If you start to remove a bolt and it gets stuck, STOP! Turn it in just a bit, heat the bolt up with the torch, apply LOTS of your favorite penetrating oil to it, let it cool down a bit (but don't wait too long) then hit it with oil again. Turn it back IN a little bit more, then back it off again and it should come out just a little bit further than it did last time. This may only be an 1/8 of a turn or so, but it's progress and patience is your friend here. Repeat this procedure until the bolt is free. Do NOT lose patience and force the bolt out, even if it's only a turn or two away from coming out!

If you do break it off, weld a nut to the end of it and continue above procedure. If it broke off flush with the timing cover, remove timing cover and then weld a nut to it. If it broke off in the block, then it's time for even more patience, some drilling, and finally a helicoil and new bolt.

 

So the cradle for the alternator and air pump blocks 2 bolts on the water pump. I removed the alternator and the cradle mount bolts. The cradle swings just enough to get the top bolt but won't clear the bottom. Should that cradle just loft right out? It wiggles left and right but won't budge!

 

It's attached to the AIR tube, and alternator wiring.

 

The alternator wiring is removed along with the whole alternator. I guess I'll try removing air hoses and see if that helps

 

The pump came out perfectly. I left the bolts and their respective holes so that I won't have any problems figuring out which go where.

Does anybody have a link or a part number for the backing plate to the water pump? I don't see it on RockAuto

 

Here it is on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M-8501-460BP-Water-Backing/dp/B00BUMM30M