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Just as a precaution I'd have an alignment shop try to align it. That will tell if the frontend is welded in straight and that the vehicle will track correctly. They might even help you identify the frontend. Bad looking graft jobs don't necessarily equate to bad jobs and Vice Versa. If all checks out you can always make it look pretty.
I agree with Fatfenders Licensing could be an issue and not just in other counties. Some U.S. States have pretty ridged inspections too.
And possibly from a truck or van if it has a long tailshaft. It looks exactly like my 1971 Econoline Van C4. Pan mounted dipstick tube and long tailshaft. Probably wouldn't matter unless you were ordering a filter kit.
Hey guys,
got a little more time to write about my goals and questions, today.
My general intention is to keep the rusty and aged look as much as I can.
I'm going to restore the frame, suspension and engine totally. But the chassis should look like an old lady.
The truck should be reliable and safe to drive with enough power and a deep sound - but I don't need race car.
Is it a good idea to keep the 351m with the C4 to reach my goals? I bought an edelbrock intake and an 4706 carb so far to eliminate the smog system. Planed to use a 2,5"-3" exhaust system with Flowmaster 40's or 44's.
Is it generally a good or reliable subframe mod? Do I need more weldings? I also have an original frame with original axles and drumbrakes. My other Option is to change the hole frame and do an "original" build.
Yesterday I searched information about the front suspension. The 76 LTD or Torino should have "pressed in" lower ball joint but mine are fixed with two bolts.
Hey guys, sorry I managed to overlook your comments to the graft. To be honest - I dont feel happy about the weldings and the construction at all.
I think about to take the original frame with straight axles and do an upgrade withToyota power steering and disc brakes. Comments? Good idea?
What are your thoughts about the drivetrain? Is my 351M with C4 a good option to start with?
What about the original Dana?! rear axle?? Should I keep it or should I take my 9” Ford axle? What are the advantages of a 9”? At last I found in my area a power brake master cylinder – manufacture is gearhead enterprise. Is it a good choice?
Many questions I know – sorry I’m a noob in US-Cars. Looking forward to hear from you. Daniel
It's always a good idea to take extra parts so if you have the room grab the extra frame. Back in the late 70s early 80s frame grafts were the way to go. So your graft may have seen plenty of enjoyable miles. Like I said earlier, "you can always make it pretty". If you go with the original frame use the new 400 series.
400 Series Power Steering Kit
The 351M with C4 will have enough power to take you where ever you want to go. But they weren't known for gas mileage. I had a 351C in my 56 Panel with Patriot side pipes that had a very nice rumble. Beware if you go with side pipes prtect your legs. I removed my side pipes after burning my legs too many times.
The reason many go to the 9" is because they are easily modified. Kits for disc brakes are readily available And if you want to change rear end gearing it's literally a bolt in exchange.
EDIT: Just a suggestion. When/If you buy a power master kit buy one that has everything. Get the Proportioning valve, residual check valves etc all engineered to work togeather. Buying a complete kit prevents having to kobble your brake system togeather with parts that may or may not work togeather. Also you'll need to decide if you're going discs all the way around or just up front.
I'd suggest getting it running, driving and then see what you like or dislike and go from there.
While writing this it occurred to me that all the stuff on your truck MAY have come from one donor vehicle. That might be the way to narrow down what parts you have on your truck currently.
Last edited by bjmayberry2; 11-19-2015 at 08:12 AM.
Reason: Added info Power Master 2 cents
The front end is most likely from a 69-72 galaxies due to the type of disc brake calipers and pads used. I've used the same spindle/rotors/ calipers swap as a bolt on mod to many a 65 up drum brake galaxie.
The OEM front suspension when restored to factory specifications with new kingpins and bushings, new HD tie rod and tie rod ends, rebuilt draglink, every other spring leafs removed to soften and lower, proper alignment, is quite satisfactory if you decide to go that route Swapping to Toyota (if proper year model used boxes are available for < 150.00 US$) if not then that newly manufactured CPP box is a good choice, but then you will also need an aftermarket or late model steering column and steering wheel. The stock column can be modified for use but the required parts approach the cost of a new column. You will also need a power steering pump and mounts to mount it to your engine.
When buying parts I would avoid any brand that is part of the Hoffman group of companies (google for list). Mid Fifty Home - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts has about any parts available for the 53-56 and the do ship out of the country. If nothing else request them to send you one of their catalogs as it has a lot of very useful extra information and drawings in it and it's free!
And here is another welcome!
I was thinking a lot about the frame in the last days.
Finally I did a decision. I'll go on with the second frame with original straight front axle. I don't feel comfortable with the mystery front clip modifications.
As next i have to decide which rear axle I'll use.
Got a Dana 44 with ratio 47/12 = 3,92:1 and a Ford 9" out of a 66-70 Mercury with ratio 2,80:1.
Engine will be a 351M from 1976 with a C4 Transmission unknown build.
I’am not intend to go on the highway as much. So which one will be the better choice?
I’ve to do this decision because of the bolt pattern from the front axle disc brake modification.
Any suggestions?
Got a little progress to tell.
Last week I moved my garage into a new building.
Reorganization of all the stuff was big deal.
A day later I took of the front fender, hood and cabin from the chassis.
Fortunately found the matching VIN on the right frame rail :-)
A few days later I did some measurements of alignment.
Probably got a difference of 1/12" between left and right side. Did the measurements between middle of the stud from last cross member to the middle of first screw of the top link (front axle).
That’s a good signs in my eyes to go forward with the grafted frame. A friend of mine is professional welder. He is going to enforce the frame at the welding’s and do a little “make-up” in this area. ;-)
What do you guys think? Should I going forward with the crafted frame or with my second original straight axle frame?
I wonder all the time where the clip comes from. I compared pictures from the internet and I was sure it comes from a 1972-1979 Torino. The frame rail and top link looking the same. But when I was looking for lower ball joints on rockauto, they all are “pressed in”. Mine are bolt in with two screws?!
I was thinking all the time that the clip, engine, transmission and rear axle comes from one donator.
Your Ford 9" differential is practically bullet proof and like said above, parts and brakes are available, and the gear ratio is desirable for highway. By the way, welcome. Your thread here is also giving me a little education regarding old Ford parts.
11-17-2015, 12:12 PM
