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Swapping in braided brake lines today (Thanks Magnus!) and need to double check a few things...

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Old 11-15-2015, 01:42 AM
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Swapping in braided brake lines today (Thanks Magnus!) and need to double check a few things...

I received a brand new set of Russel brake lines from Magnus quite awhile back. Since I received them I've moved 4 times and each time lost 1-2 of the crush washers and am now at a sad pathetic 1. I started working towards getting new washers from Summit and Russel earlier this year but getting them took months as they didn't have the size listed in the specs and Russel had to actually get off their *** and do something since it wasn't on their computer. Well today I got the new washers in and I'm ready to install I have severely mushy brakes, I have to push the pedal to the floor if I need to stop in a hurry and I can't get the ABS to kick in since the brakes don't grab hard enough to lose traction. I suspect there is water or the tiniest bit of air in the lines but I'm beginning to think more and more that the lines are just shot and if it wasn't for the random gift from Magnus I might be driving down the highway ignoring the issue and they might just give out... Anyway, Wendy will be helping me to make sure the cylinder never goes empty and I was planning on just gravity bleeding it and putting all new fluid in the front lines. Would my best bet just be to remove both sides, attach both hoses at the top, and then let them drip/leak into a pan and then just hook them up once the fluid starts coming out clear? Anything I should look for? Anything besides not wiping the fender off with the rag I clean the brake fluid cap off with I need to make sure not to do? And once again, thank you Magnus, friend for life
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:44 AM
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You'll be very happy once you are done Apoc! I would just hook them all up, don't drip them, then once finished ask Wendy to pump the pedal - hold- and bleed starting at the rear one caliper at a time. Keep filling the master so you don't run empty. Drive it around to give the system a typical workout and then do a touch up bleed of each caliper.
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:15 AM
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Props to Magnus on the hookup

Sounds like you get the jist of installing lines so I will leave that be, I will just add that if your brakes are going to the floor you likely have other issues then bad brake lines or "a tiny bit" of air in them. Have you tried to bleed your brakes with the lines you have now ? Anyhow, I am just suggesting to keep an open mind that you could also have another brake issues that need to be looked for while you are installing the new lines.
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:21 AM
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Agreed, something more may be going on here.

I just replaced my calipers, rotors, pads, ss brake lines etc. Used the Russell lInes and the powerstop one click kit. Big, big difference and prior to the install my pedal never went to the floor like yours. Be careful, brakes are nothing to mess with if you aren't sure what you are doing.

Bleed as indicated above. I was very generous and used two whole quarta to flush.

If needed, I might have a few of the washers laying around if you run short.
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnus E
You'll be very happy once you are done Apoc! I would just hook them all up, don't drip them, then once finished ask Wendy to pump the pedal - hold- and bleed starting at the rear one caliper at a time. Keep filling the master so you don't run empty. Drive it around to give the system a typical workout and then do a touch up bleed of each caliper.
This^^^^^^^^

If you can't get it right, take it somewhere to have done... With all the hills around you, you don't want to take chances.
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:45 AM
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Apoc, Go with the procedure that Magnus outlined above, that way you also flush out the worst bit of fluid, the stuff that never leaves the calipers and is subjected to the heat, moisture absorption and wear the most.

And reps to Magnus for being a good guy!
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:46 AM
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If you have a decent sized compressor, then this works amazingly:
Brake Fluid Bleeder

Can quickly flush the whole system and is a one person operation. I empty the reservoir, fill with fresh fluid, then do pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. If it's never been done before it can take quite a bit of fluid considering how long the lines are to the rear. As others have said, check the master often and top it off.

Braided lines will make a noticeable difference, even more so with fresh fluid in a properly bled system. GL.
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:53 AM
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So I can't get away with just bleeding the front for now? I was really hoping to just bleed the front and be done for a few weeks until I could get to installing the rear line...
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Apocalypse
So I can't get away with just bleeding the front for now? I was really hoping to just bleed the front and be done for a few weeks until I could get to installing the rear line...
Correct - you bleed the system.
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 01:23 PM
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Do the rear wheels need to come off to bleed the rear?
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 01:56 PM
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Nope-just crawl under there
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:35 PM
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Watch those breeders.... Can be easy to snap or round them off, especially if it is a rig that has seen winter. I like to remove the wheels to get a little extra room to work, just put the whole rear end on jack stands and bang it out. Some guys like to use a little clear grease on the threads to help prevent air getting sucked through... I think I used a dab of dielectric grease.... I don't remember. Google it for more info. Gl.
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Apocalypse
So I can't get away with just bleeding the front for now? I was really hoping to just bleed the front and be done for a few weeks until I could get to installing the rear line...
Nope.

Always start at the rear passenger side, then the rear drivers side, then the front passenger side, then the front drivers side.

See the brake bleeding procedure outlined in the Tech Folder sticky thread for a foolproof method to flush the lines without allowing air to infiltrate back into the system.

Also, depending on the conditions the rig has been driven in, and if you still have a cap on the bleeders, dirt may have clogged one or more of your bleeders. If you find that has happened, just completely remove the bleeder and using a probe (like a mechanics dental pick), clean out the orifice and spray with brake cleaner.

Stewart
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:43 PM
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A quick tip, spray some Seafoam Deep Creep (PB Blaster, etc... some kind of penetrating oil. WD40 is not a penetrating oil) on the bleed screws an hour or two before starting - they should open up quite easily instead of shearing off. Every vehicle should have the full brake system bled regardless of which end you're working on, and it's always started furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest - as the majority of people have already said. Half-assing it on brakes is a terrible idea, especially with the heft of the Excursion and the momentum it can build up.

I don't know if the V10 uses a hydroboost setup like the diesel, but if it does - check the fluid and see what it looks like. I had some brake and very occasional low-speed steering issues - turned out the fluid was more brown than red. A quick flush and re-fill helped with the brakes a LOT and the steering got a lot nicer as well.
 
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:26 PM
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Ended up putting this off until Wendy's next day off we got a little bit of mist and we were worried it was going to turn into rain plus Wendy needed to catch up on her riding for national novel writing month. Going to put the entire thing up on jackstands and do it back to front all the way correctly and get it right the first time to put all new fluid in it so I don't have anything to worry about.
 


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