Hey guys I've been posting a thread about my injectors being bad and the mechanics being bad in my area. I decided to check my uvch and the connectors were almost unplugged. My symptoms before were rough idling (sometimes), and a change in rpms at idle (30-40). I am hoping this is the problem that has been pissing me off for so long. Would a bad connection show up on a diagnostic? Because I can't tell you how much money (hundreds and hundreds) I've spent trying to get my truck diagnosed and it has always come back clean. I really feel like every mechanic I've taken my truck to just doesn't give a rat's behind about figuring it out. Let me know your thoughts on this discovery and if you think it could explain rough idle and lack of power. Thanks!

1996 f250 xlt 2wd auto 92,223 miles

 

They should be plugged in all the way so they are not loose. Have you looked at the pins to see if they are burnt or damaged at all?

 

They're a bit melted. I'm ordering new ones. I really am a patient person but I want them now.

 

Your like me but when it comes to my Mule Im like the movie Insidious(the demon voice in the baby monitor) and I quote "I want it, I want it KNOW!)

 

Haha exactly! Well put

 

Depends on how you define "diagnostic". You checking the UVCHs constitutes a "diagnostic", and you found the problem. A lot of mediocre mechanics think that a code scan is a "diagnostic", that a computer will tell them everything. A connection issue like this may or may not throw a code. It may pass a key-on engine-off buzz test, but fail an engine-running cylinder contribution test. All depends on what sort of "diagnostics" your previous mechanics did. Add to that the fact that our trucks don't "speak" generic OBD-II, and a lot of mechanics don't realize that, and yes, diagnostics can get expensive.

Never sell short your own diagnostic skills.

 

Exactly. That's all the mechanics use is a scanner. They just scan for codes and if nothing comes back they say everything is normal. What a bunch of crap lol

 

I agree, my plug in was loose and I lost the whole bank, side of the motor (sd uvch). I checked for codes and nothing!

 

unfortunately in today's electronic age, we no longer have "mechanics".
we have parts changers. they plug the scanner in, it tells them "change this", or "everything is ok"
so the parts changers say everything is fine, even though the engine has a miss and no power because the scanner told then there is nothing wrong.

 

The other thing I'd recommend in checking after you sort the burnt UVC connections is the fuel filter housing. If you drain a little fuel out of the fuel filter housing then pull out the filter and a 1/3 the way down the driver's side you'll find a smal hole. Take Q-tips a small flashlight and small mirror and clean the stainless screen at the back of this hole. There maybe debris on this screen which need to be cleaned off it. I have found this to be the fastest way to clean it. First time I did this on my trucks you couldn't even see the screen for the black keerap on it. Took 1/2 doz Q-tips to clean up. This may smooth out your idle too as it's the return fuel line to tank.

It sounds like an electrical concern that is affecting idle and performance, in addition to above what type of engine oil you running and do you use a fuel additive like Stanadyne?

jrc

 

Nice arrangement, when they're spending somebody else's money....

 

Rotella T6 oil and am currently doing stanadyne for 4 fill ups