Guys, maybe someone here with more brains than I (that means everyone on here, plus that pet octopus over there) can figure this one out.
I installed Altman latches. They were working okay. Mind you, truck has gone nowhere in 18 months since being fitted.
A guy who did some panel work for me took the doors off and then refitted them. Since then, whenever I shut the door, the door just bounces back in my face, unless I engage the inner door handle. That is, unless I push the inside door handle down before I shut the door.
What gives? Anyone else have this problem? Door release spring maybe?
Peter

 

Your doors just wasn't placed in the exact same place, so adjust the striker pin on the door post and you should be good unless you are not happy with the door gaps do that first then the striker pin.

 

Thanks John. What has also compounded the issue are new door seals. The door seal so well, you can feel the air building up in the cabin as you try to shut the door. I've played around with the striker a bit but still does it. Must be, as you say, just some adjusting to play with. I was thinking it might have been a return spring worn out or some such thing.

 

Sounds like the new door seal syndrome... Some of the door seals don't allow door to close all the way, like they did originally. Need to let the seals collapse to fit the doors and cab...

 

I've been waiting about 12 years for my new door seals to completely break in. Are there any seals out now known to be closer to correct thickness/density?

 

Good to know about the door seal, guys. Wasn't aware of that one. Explains why the doors stick out about half an inch more than they should. Got these sourced locally. Dunno where they come from. I know one thing; they are very poor quality, as one edge was split when it arrived, and they have a milky white aspect about the rubber. Didn't fit too well, either, but that was probably me as I made a mess of the sikaflex going everywhere when fitting em, and kinda rushed the job in the end. Especially one side. Other side came up well, but still sticks out like dogs cods.

 

I purchased some from Mid Fifty some time back, They offered a few options, I choose the hollow core and have been pretty happy. When I purchased the truck from the PO there were some thick / stiff seals on it and both side windows were cracked from the owners wife forcefully slamming the doors to make them close fully. She seemed pretty happy with her accomplishment if i remember correctly.

 

What are dogs cods??

 

Hahah! Might be an ockerism! (*****, nuts,) When I was a kid we used to call them that.

 

I put new solid door seals on from Dennis Carpenter. Despite my best effort which included hours of door adjusting, I could not make them work. Bought the hollow ones from MF. Boom! done.

 

On this subject, my buddy just installed Altman latches and is ecstatic about how they work for him. One thing that I realized about his truck was that the stock latches required the door to be shut past the point of where it would normally latch...in other words, there is enough play in the stock latch to make you have to push the door in farther than you should have to. With the Altman latches the door will be closed and latched as soon as it gets to the point where the door would be normally when latched. What this means with regards to the discussion of door weatherstripping is that any extra thickness in the seal will cause a lot more problem when using an OEM latch as you would notice with the Altmans. Sounds like the OP got a bad batch of seals or that the installer doesn't know dogs cods from bog!

 

Do you use the electric poppers with your Altman's Charlie?

 

No. The Altman latches I use have the F100 lever on them so that I can use the stock door handles. I am using electric door lock actuators however.

 

That's what I meant, I purchased everything from Midfifty but bought the electric actuators after I seen how the Altman latches worked. I didn't like the idea of alway needing to use a key to open the door.

 

Here is the link to the KES I bought and hopefully the "recommended" actuators at the bottom of the page. Whole system was $26 and change.