Good morning. I tried using Trans Dapt motor mounts for my 302 conversion. The type that are one on each side with the puck style rubber mount. Don't care for them. I am going to try the tubular cross member style motor mount. I have to try it to get a good comparison. Staying with the straight axle and the 302 is rear sump oil pan. ?#1 What company has been used with success with my combination. ?#2 Is there room to remove the oil pan without moving the engine. ?#3 Most of these seem to be made to fit cars and trucks. Is there anyone aware of one made specifically for trucks.....maybe designed to sit a little higher in the engine compartment. Thanks

 

The one I used came from POL. It fit really well. With a rear sump, I believe you can remove the pan if you install the mount with the tube facing forwards. Good luck.

 

Hey Grant. We "talked" about this a while back and I have a photo you sent around here somewhere. I am confused. It seems to me like the mounts on the actual motor and the cross member would dictate the orientation of the cross bar. School me please. I had my finger on the order button for POL today and then hesitated. Started to gravitate towards companies that sold the cross member and the motor mounts as a kit. Was trying not to get too many companies involved. Also, I thought there was some talk between others a bout the actual mounting points on the block being offset. Thanks

 

The only issue I had, was to enlarge the thru bolt hole on the engine mount. The mount on the cross member was a 1/2 in tube, and the mount was 7/16. I just drilled the mount hole to 1/2 in. Check with some of the suppliers. They have the cross members and engine mounts. I think Midfifty has them as a kit. I bought my rubber mounts from a local supplier. The mounts are for a 70's era Windsor application. Very easy to install, and it gives you the opportunity to off set the engine for steering and exhaust clearance. You have my ph.#s. Call me if you want to talk about it.

 

Be careful with that or you'll be having a thread about modifying the trans tunnel/cover so your engine will sit level. Bellhousing to floor is a pretty snug fit. If you have already done that mod then carry on Sir. It's on my winter to do list, but probably not this winter.

 

Good point about getting the engine and trans too high. I'm trying to solve problems not create new ones.Thanks

 

I ordered the TransDapt cross member and motor mount as a set from Summit. I had a question based on the applications listed if it would fit. Summit and TransDapt both said they didn't see why the motor mounts wouldn"t fit an '85 302. I will update when they arrive. Thanks for the input....Matt

 

I bet they will fit fine. Mock it all up before you drill or weld.

-engine level as possible without hitting trans tunnel with bellhousing.
-Proper clearance for fan to radiator and shroud with radiator installed.
-header and steering shaft clearance is nice to check though I doubt it will be a problem you can't work out.

Vertically you have room for two small blocks under the hood.

 

"Vertically you have room for two small blocks under the hood. " That's a fact. On our first attempt we put the engine as far back and down as we could.......Couldn't reach it! Not to mention it looked like a small electric motor down there. Not very "old school". Hoping for a better result this time.

 

Really no way around it unless you want a big block which is counter to my goals. They drive nicer if you don't stack additional weight on the nose. Everything has a potential downside. Wouldn't want raise the center of gravity much so the engine needs to go about where most put them. Big intakes, air cleaners and valve covers help a SB look a little less lost under the hood.

Anyway, we are just picky. A lot of folks would like to have these problems.

 

I found using the tubular cross-member was really user friendly. It all went together so well. You can set the motor and trans in place, then move it around to suit your set up. It's probably the easiest way to install the engine of your choice.

 

Hey Grant. After you determined the best placement did you weld the cross member to the outside frame brackets or just drill a hole and use a a through bolt? You mentioned rotating the cross member to gain oil pan clearance if needed. I am trying to visualize if you would do that by moving the cross member within the brackets or swiveling the whole thing as a unit. It may be more clear to me when it arrives. I may still take you up on the phone call offer at some point but one minute after the call and
I can't remember what was said.

 

My frame mount's are bolted to the frame, and the crossmember fits inside it, so it can be positioned 2 ways. with the tube forward or backwards, depending on what you need for clearance, and engine angle. Once you have everything lined up, you can either weld, or bolt the tube to the frame mount's. I chose to bolt them. That way, if I chose to, or have to change anything, it would be much easier.

 

I have a 51 F1 and just put the SBF crossmember mount I picked up from speedway for $39. Regularly $59 but it was in their garage sale items with a couple small scratches and 1979 ford LTD mounts for $12/ pair at o'reilly s. Cheap, easy and really seems to add stregth to the frame. I also installed it angling the mount forward to clear the oem dual sump 95 mustang pan.The problem now is I just found jag ifs I want to use and it is on the way. I'm guessing It's back to square one with the mounts.

 

I guess my assumption was that the part of the cross member that accepts the motor mounts was welded square to the cross member. Seems that if that was the case there wouldn't be two options for mounting.....tube forward or tube backwards. Curious if yours is OFFSET so I can compare it to mine when it gets here tomorrow. Wouldn't be surprised to find out they are all made by the same company. Equally, and maybe more, curious to know how you settled on 79 LTD mounts with all of the options that must be out there. I am so used to going to the store with a year make and model to replace a known part. All this mixing and matching is very foreign to me.