Rear hardlines on axle housing damaged, what is the proper part number?
#1
Rear hardlines on axle housing damaged, what is the proper part number?
While overhauling the rear brakes, the hardlines that run on the axle housing got damaged. One seized up to the cylinder and the nut is now stripped and the other spun with the nut so wound up twisting the line.
I cant find the proper replacement for these and the part number in the FSM is just a generic one; 2267.
I suspect 2267 just refers to "hardlines" in general and each year/model gets a different "true" part number. For example newer F150's use 6L3Z-2267-R
Anyone know the proper part number the hard-lines and the t-block (that also houses the vent) and where to source it other than a junkyard?
Thanks in advance
I cant find the proper replacement for these and the part number in the FSM is just a generic one; 2267.
I suspect 2267 just refers to "hardlines" in general and each year/model gets a different "true" part number. For example newer F150's use 6L3Z-2267-R
Anyone know the proper part number the hard-lines and the t-block (that also houses the vent) and where to source it other than a junkyard?
Thanks in advance
#3
I'm cool with that, just figured if there as a pre-bent set for $30 on rockauto that had the t-valve in it that I was just missing or something I'd go that route
#4
Be aware that thread pitch is different on right and left sides of the truck.
If your parts store has the rear flex line (with brass block) you can match it up.
Yes, the junction is *part of* the rear brake hose.
Buy the thread adapter or the oversized nut and flare it onto the line yourself.
Make sure the axle vent bolt is clear and the hose clipped to the upper frame rail.
If your parts store has the rear flex line (with brass block) you can match it up.
Yes, the junction is *part of* the rear brake hose.
Buy the thread adapter or the oversized nut and flare it onto the line yourself.
Make sure the axle vent bolt is clear and the hose clipped to the upper frame rail.
#5
The line size is 3/16th and there are indeed two size fittings needed.
Both Wheel Cylinders (LH and RH) take a 7/16-24 fitting.
However the proportioning valve/block has a 7/16-24 fitting on the LH (driver side) and a 3/8-24 fitting on the RH (passenger side).
I wound up using CuNi line (Copper Nickle) was easy to bend and while a bit softer should not rust. Painted up black it looks good.
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