Crew cab body swap?
#33
Channeling the cab would most likely be the safest route. If you can manage to save your original floor board you may be able to reuse the factory seat mounts, just have the seat sit a little higher than normal. Or, cut down the mounts that attach to the seat and have it sit lower to the floor.
Adjusting the frame, best would be to extend it before the riser like the above poster stated, but then you are getting into some expenses, much more than notching the frame. Keeping everything aligned and square would be crucial. Extending fuel, brake lines and electrical.
Notching the frame would work fine, you would want to box in the area that is notched to reinforce it and add what you take from the top of the frame to the bottom, move any cross members down as well. Move the fuel tank back if necessary.
You said you don't want a body lift so that takes care of that. Though they do make brake line extensions specifically for body lifts.
Anyway you go about it will work. If it was me I'd notch the frame, most cost effective and will not open up a new can of worms like a body lift or channeling the cab.
Adjusting the frame, best would be to extend it before the riser like the above poster stated, but then you are getting into some expenses, much more than notching the frame. Keeping everything aligned and square would be crucial. Extending fuel, brake lines and electrical.
Notching the frame would work fine, you would want to box in the area that is notched to reinforce it and add what you take from the top of the frame to the bottom, move any cross members down as well. Move the fuel tank back if necessary.
You said you don't want a body lift so that takes care of that. Though they do make brake line extensions specifically for body lifts.
Anyway you go about it will work. If it was me I'd notch the frame, most cost effective and will not open up a new can of worms like a body lift or channeling the cab.
#35
#36
You say stop giving advice. perhaps take your own advice. Lowpala is giving me options of what i want. i understand that a body lift might seem like the easiest way out, but i do not want a body lift.
#37
Dang guy.. mad? I've done a body lift before and we definitley had to buy the extended brake lines because the factory lines were about to be pulled apart. Maybe the fords are different but typically that's what needs to be done. I know where this guy is coming from wanting to use what he has, everyone here is saying no no no just buy a new truck. C'mon.. really? No need to get sensitive, just sharing what I know and my experiences. I've been working with metal my entire life, not pulling crap from my *** here.
#38
Dang guy.. mad? I've done a body lift before and we definitley had to buy the extended brake lines because the factory lines were about to be pulled apart. Maybe the fords are different but typically that's what needs to be done. I know where this guy is coming from wanting to use what he has, everyone here is saying no no no just buy a new truck. C'mon.. really? No need to get sensitive, just sharing what I know and my experiences. I've been working with metal my entire life, not pulling crap from my *** here.
#40
Does anyone know what is needed to mount a bullnose front clip to a 92+ body?
#41
Brake lines are NOT needed for ANY body lift. PERIOD
Suspension lifts, yes. Body lift NO.
Like I said, stop giving "advice" when you dont know what you are talking about
You act as though the brake lines go Staright from the master cylinder to the frame. They do NOT. They have coils built in to them to allow for body/frame movement and vibration resistance
Suspension lifts, yes. Body lift NO.
Like I said, stop giving "advice" when you dont know what you are talking about
You act as though the brake lines go Staright from the master cylinder to the frame. They do NOT. They have coils built in to them to allow for body/frame movement and vibration resistance
#42
Brake lines are NOT needed for ANY body lift. PERIOD
Suspension lifts, yes. Body lift NO.
Like I said, stop giving "advice" when you dont know what you are talking about
You act as though the brake lines go Staright from the master cylinder to the frame. They do NOT. They have coils built in to them to allow for body/frame movement and vibration resistance
Suspension lifts, yes. Body lift NO.
Like I said, stop giving "advice" when you dont know what you are talking about
You act as though the brake lines go Staright from the master cylinder to the frame. They do NOT. They have coils built in to them to allow for body/frame movement and vibration resistance
#43
Brake lines are NOT needed for ANY body lift. PERIOD
Suspension lifts, yes. Body lift NO.
Like I said, stop giving "advice" when you dont know what you are talking about
You act as though the brake lines go Staright from the master cylinder to the frame. They do NOT. They have coils built in to them to allow for body/frame movement and vibration resistance
Suspension lifts, yes. Body lift NO.
Like I said, stop giving "advice" when you dont know what you are talking about
You act as though the brake lines go Staright from the master cylinder to the frame. They do NOT. They have coils built in to them to allow for body/frame movement and vibration resistance
#44
Yes i found a complete cab with interior from a obs style truck. The guy said $800. Seems like a decent price for something that has little surface rust. I will get it soon when i have the money.
Does anyone know what is needed to mount a bullnose front clip to a 92+ body?
Does anyone know what is needed to mount a bullnose front clip to a 92+ body?
But also from what I remember reading, the dash will be the problem. I don't think the '86 dash will go into the '92-'97 cab very easily. And I don't think the '86 wiring will go to the '92 - '97 dash very easily either. So I don't know which dash would be easier to use. But I'm only trying to remember what I've read, so someone with more experience can probably help you out better.