Who here is running or has ran stock sticks and a billet compressor wheel with a 1.0 turbine housing? Im wrapping my engine out a little more then I really want to while towing up the mesa. Apparently 2950 rpms is a no no, but if I go to 2700-2800 my engine starts to bog down and I lose momentum and boost. Also my egts rise. Id like to spool up alot quicker so I can tow correctly. Im wanting to do the 1.0 housing garret off of riff-raff, and add a billet compressor wheel, either wicked wheel 2 or riff-raff again. Who here has this or had this setup and what would u recommend. Dont have the money for a new turbo, and Ive already spend too much money into new bellowed up pipes and e99 spyder to swap over to the GTP38 style. Also am I still going to be able to tow at 70mph with the quick spool, and should I just try the compressor wheel first then the 1.0 housing, or just do it all at once?

 

Why can't you run up the hill at 2950 rpms?
The 1.0 housing will help it spool at a lower rpm, but will cause more restriction (higher egts) at the higher rpms. I don't think the 1.0 housing is going to solve your problem.
I have no experience with the billet compressor wheel.

 

I thought the 1.0 housing with the .85 outlet caused higher egts but not the 1.0 with the 1.0 outlet? Or am I thinking of something else?

I was told that the normal working rmps for these trucks where 2500 to 2800 rpms for extended periods of time. In order to keep enough boost to not bog down and skyrocket egts. I have to keep my rpms at 2900 and above for almost 20 mins at a time going up the mesa here. I cant remember the specific details but I just remember someone telling me that at those rpms the pistons are moving so fast that gravity doesnt have a chance to drop the oil down all the way to the bottom of the oil pan and properly lube the bearings. I may also be saying that wrong as well.

 

The 1.0 will lower your EGT"s and billet wheel will help with boost. I'd buy the wheel first and see how you like it. Then if you want even lower EGT's with that wheel buy the housing. That's what cost most the money any how. Together should be a great choice. Let us know how you go. Would like to know real world figures.

 

The 1.0 is smaller than the stock 1.15. It will RAISE egts, not lower them.

 

I guess I would buy the wheel then first. Sorry on the size difference, I shouldn't of answered this question. I was thinking van turbo's as 1.15 and forgot about the OBS being that size. Thanks cowmilker for correcting me!

 

No problem, Bonanza!

 

Right now my boost tops out at 17 psi @ about 2950rpms. Id like to get my psi past 20, and get it there before 2800 rpms. Ideal conditions would be the new billet wheel spools up quicker and to 20psi. Ill try it first, thanks for the advice Cowmilker. With the 1.0 will my egts rise by alot or are we talking 50degrees? Also have u tried the 1.0 with the 6.0 intercooler?

 

To go over 20 psi you will need a good tune and more fuel which will leed to sticks. Im pushing 28lbs with stage 1s tw tunes on my street setting and 6.0 intercooler but my egts rise over 1300 if I keep my foot for more than 15 seconds maybe my mileage has to do something with it. But sticks would be a nice upgrade you wont regret it

 

No, I haven't tried it with an IC, but I can hit 23 psi boost on stock tunes/sticks.


EDIT: With your TW tunes I think you should be seeing more boost. You may want to start by looking into that.

 

Maybe cause my boost needle is all bouncy thats why it registers so low.
Dam I need a new boost gauge, or is it because I have it teed into the map line?

 

I hit 30 psi easy with my setup at 2500 rpm.. Can't hold it for egt reasons. In my "highway econ" tune. I'm tapped into map tube also

 

If this thing wasnt a tow rig Id jump up to bigger injectors but its a tow rig ONLY. It doesnt move unless it has something hooked up to it. I run way too high of egts to be able to put bigger injectors and not have to redo studs, rods, efuel, hpop, and a bigger turbo. I dont have the money for really a new compressor wheel and turbine housing. But I think I can sell some stuff to get the parts. The difference between those parts and the injectors is that I need a bunch of parts to get rid of egts, and supply enough fuel to it.

 

I would think with the new wheel and 160 stock injectors you will be fine. At most a T500 will help big time.

 

JMO, but if its a tow vehicle only, and you don't want to upgrade the turbo, stay with stock injectors. No matter what you do it will be hot with that little turbo and even just stage ones. Trust me, been there.