Not sure if they're crappy pads, rattling around, or brakes braking on in the rear. after about 3 minutes of driving, they start squeaking really bad. How can i tell if the master cylinder rod is adjusted correctly? what else could it be?

Wilwood master cylinder, tuff stuff booster, wilwood adjustable proportioning valve, front and rear calipers are the same, new gm metric mid 90's calipers from speedway

 

Was it fine to start with and just started or did you just install the system?

Open a bleeder on the ones making noise and see if they release.

Do you have a disc/disc master cyl? If it is meant for rear drums it will have a residual valve with a higher pressure than for a disc setup causing drag.

Need more info.

 

It does sound like a residual valve issue. Are they getting warm after a few miles? I think I would get her up on jack stands after a short ride. Brakes should have very little drag at rest. (if that wasn't obvious)

 

they are getting warm after a few miles. I do have a residual valve. the entire brake system is brand new. Could it have to do with the master cylinder/brake booster shaft?

 

Could be a few different things. If the pedal adjustment is NG and the booster shaft is still pushing on the master when the pedal is up, or the pedal is not retracting all the way back. Pushrod on the booster matched to the master cylinder? If it is too long it could be pushing on the master with the pedal retracted. Can also try a return spring on the brake pedal if the pedal isnt coming back far enough.

 

Yes that is possible. Is the rod length adjustable by chance? If so shortening it up would be a good thing to try.

And the residual valve you have is correct for the style brakes you have? Verify that if you haven't already.

 

I have 2 return springs on the brake pedal, I'll have to go look At the residual valve when the kids go down for naps. I'll check the booster rod also

 

I went 1 inch free play on my pedal. I had 1/2 in originally, and they were hanging up a tad. This is just moving it in and out of the garage. Good luck.

 

Here is my master cylinder.

Wilwood Aluminum Tandem Master Cylinders 260-8555 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

 

I cant tell anything by the master, but the depth of the hole in the master for the booster push rod should be slightly deeper than the length of the booster push rod with the brake pedal retracted.

 

Do you have the anti-squeak pads or membrane on the back of the pads? I would start with the simple stuff first.

To everybody else not familiar with Wilwood, there master cylinders do not have residual valves in them. They expect you to buy and install them if needed.

 

got under the truck tonight for a few, I have a 2 lb residual valve on the rear lines...everything else looks ok... Might have to take it to a professional to figure this one out...