Your temps were not that high. Change the pump, should fix the problem.

Reference was to my buddies truck... he basically boiled it to death.

 

Yeah, that sucks. I'm hoping I caught it early. I read some other threads of guys running over 300 degree EOT for short periods with no permanent damage, which I was nowhere near. Thanks for the input so far. Hope to knock out the water pump tomorrow. don't have an air tool or fan wrench, so I will have to improvise to get it done.

 

believe its a 35mm wrench, Northern tool carries that one.

 

Sounds brutal but I've managed to get a large pipe wrench in there without tearing up anything.

 

In find this shocking. No crud in the heater core???? Maybe it's been well cared for.

Maybe I got the flow backwards but pretty sure I didn't.

 

I rinsed both directions.... Maybe most of it came out during my initial flushes.

Need to get a fan wrench, could not get it off today after trying for two hours.

 

the fan wrench is $60 or so. I think that 35mm wrench from Northern was $35, it was a LARGE box end wrench. Lots of guys use the air hammer, but everybody says the nut is on there good.

 

Update - Got the water pump pulled and it was damaged, the plastic center was broken around the shaft. After replacing, the ECT after a long idle and 45-55mph never exeeded 188. The EOT is high though, 211-214. Not insane, but who knows what it might creep too on a long drive. A new oil cooler and coolant filter are in order, but first more research and a coolant pressure test.

 

that's a 20-25* difference... time to save up for an oil cooler. If you have an EGR delete, it's not as critical but if the EGR cooler is still there... you are playing with a ruptured ERG cooler if not careful. The hot coolant from the oil cooler is already hotter than normal and won't cool the EGR cooler as intended. Because it can't shed the heat correctly, the higher temp will basically burn out the EGR cooler faster causing cracks in the coolant passages and coolant to leak into the intake. That coolant turns to steam and possibly lifts the heads due to the higher pressures.... something you don't want to mess around with by waiting to see if it's an issue or not.

Indication of higher temps, possible white smoke that smells of coolant and if you park nose down, remove the EGR valve an look into the intake and see fluid or wet goo, its time to take action.

I'd be careful towing with it as well.... won't take much to put your temps for oil into the 235* range and at 253*, the truck will defuel.

 

The truck is all stock, so EGR cooler is there. I will likely delete it, I hear the weld up is the way to go structurally. Anything else I should do while in there? Dummy plugs etc?

 

Since your changing the oil cooler, I'd do the following;
IPR brand EGR delete, one and done, never worry again.
OEM oil cooler. Flush with chemicals VC-9 and Restore, then replace the oil cooler.
Add coolant filter if you like after the flush and cooler replace.
STC fitting is not an issue with the 03', not positive but they don't have dummy plugs/standpipe issues either.

They do have HPOP issues that come on suddenly, it works or it don't. If I had the money and your already there, I'd consider it but it's not really that hard to do. For a no-start hot issue or a really long crank issue (if your having that now) I'd say do the HPOP. You can come back to it later if these issues pop up. HPOP around $700.

For now... do the oil cooler and delete, flush and filter. Go back with EC-1 rated coolant.

Pull the EGR valve after parking nose down and check for moisture in the intake. That will give you an idea of how urgent the fix is. If wet, it's time, if not... it's coming.

 

Don't weld the egr up. If its ruptured, the coolant runs across all that soot in the exhaust gas passages, and rinses that soot into all your coolant passages..... Making for a filty coolant system. First hand experience talking.

 

Sound advise here. I pretty much did what WatsonR posted when I had the head studs done. It migh be difficult to swallow the added expense but it would suck more to have to tear everything off the top of the motor a second time. Then you'll be set for years to come.
The only thing that comes to mind would be to add a new HPOP Oil Filter Screen ($25). Mine was torn at 60K miles.

On a positive note, it sounds like you found the root of your temp problem.

 

Thanks for the advice guys! Will continue to update as I go.