I just finished replacing pads, calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders & brake drum hardware on my truck along with flushing the brake fluid. The brakes work but the pedal goes almost to the floor. While bleeding them some air did come out as expected. But a couple times the master cylinder reservoir got very low on fluid. The workshop manual talks about bleeding the MC but are special fittings needed for that?

 

The procedure I'm referring to is one that I read about in the Workshop Manual about bleeding or maybe it was called priming the Master Cylinder. It's the procedure that needs to be done when the MC has been replaced. Or in my situation because the fluid may have gotten too low in the MC while bleeding the system. Apparently this needs to be done to get air out of the MC. It is done by disconnecting the 2 lines at the MC. Then connecting 2 lines(bought at a parts store) that are bent in a way that allows the other ends of them to go into the opening at the top of the MC(where fluid is added) & be submersed in the fluid. Then pumping the brake pedal to remove any air that is in the MC itself. When finished you just disconnect those lines & reconnect the original ones. I've never done this before but it seems pretty straight forward.

What I want to know is, are special connectors needed to attach the lines to the MC or will the ones that are on brake lines from a parts store work to do this procedure?

 

you could try just pumping and draining at the wheel ends and push all the air out that way. It should work, and you will get a lot of new oil in and old oil replaced !

 

Keep the master cylinder full... check every 3-4 times you drain off at the wheel end.

 

Used to be when you got a new M/C they gave you 2 fittings that went where the brake lines go. They had tubes to go from the fittings to the reservoir. They called it bench bleeding. Still had to bleed the lines though. The way Steve described will be your best bet. And make sure the M/C stays full.

 

Steve is correct. Or drive to local mechanic and spend $50-$75 and have them flush it.

 

Ok. Thanks guys.
A friend is coming over in the morning to help me bleed them again.
I'll let you know how it goes.

 

We bled/flushed them. No air came out but fluid is fresh & clean now. My friend adjusted the rear brakes thru the hole in the backing plate. I think that made some difference in the pedal.
How can I tell if they can be adjusted more.?
I think I read in the Workshop Manual that you adjust till they start to drag then back off a bit. But it's hard to tell when they start doing that with all the resistance to spinning the wheel from differential & drive shaft.

 

YEP, that's how it works. Tighten till you feel a LOT of resistance, then back off several clicks. The exact number is not that critical. .......... one question, you have the front calipers on the right side so the bleeder is at the TOP and all the air goes OUT the TOP ?

 

Before like 15 years I installed brake at one Toyota. Pin was stuck and I push caliper back with force. I bend pin and I had symptoms like yours. I didn’t figure out what was source of problem till I did replace caliper because it was stuck 4 years after.

 

Yes. Thank you for checking & all other advice you have given.