i have a 96 ranger 2wd with a 2.3l engine with 200,000 miles on it and not sure what the p.o. did. one thing i am sure the oil wasn't changed for a while,it is now as well as new brakes,axle seals, and a new clutch and used transmission (5 spd manual). it doesn't use oil or rattle with a few small leaks here and there. i was wondering if i should rering the engine and change the timing belt it would be a winter project because i have an awd car for the winter. it is a good truck and i don't want it to break down. i also need to change the heater core(lots of fun),the old one leaks and they put stop leak in it. what should it cost to fix everything ball park? i figure about 1000 bucks and it gets me out of the house for a while. any consutive comments would be helpful, notice i said consructive not destrutive.

 

A master overhaul kit is over $500. then machine shop work on the head, bore the block, maybe turn the crank will come to over $1200. A re ring is a lot cheaper, but engine may be just at the point of needing bored.

 

do some basic trouble shooting first. Have you done a compression test/ You said no oil burning so what makes ya think you need to do anything? My 4.0 has 300000+ on it and The oly reason I did any engine works was because I thought I had a blown headgasket. Everything else is standard maintenance. The trans has given me more grief than the engine has. Oil leaks were repaired and since it had a pan gasket leak they raised the engine to put a new gasket in and while the pan was off I had them install an oil pump for GP's. Did timing chain and gear when the water leak (pump manifold to block gasket failed) since it had to be exposed to fix the leak. When heads were off only thing I did was put new oil seals on the valves!

So do the basic mechanics first before taking on something that may not be needed.

 

just my opinion if it isn't using oil and runs fine I would leave the thing alone. Why fix something that's not broke. Maybe the oil was changed most of it's life but the last went awhile. I would look at the timing belt, if it's cracking and dry change it. Never know maybe it has been changed lately, just look at it and see. There is no way I would tear engine apart if it run's fine and no oil burning, I would let her eat until it does....again just my opinion

 

the reason i thought of rebuilding is it is losing power going uphill,used to be able to go up in fifth now have to downshift to 4th and don't know when the timing belt was changed so i will at least change it. better safe than sorry.

 

I come down on the side of "If it's not broke, don't fix it"
the little 4 banger might have trouble getting up the hill in fifth at any age.
the 5 speed is for overdrive, that's cruising not for acceleration or power.

 

4th gear going uphill in the 4cyl is fairly normal, even when the truck is not loaded down.
timing belt you could change but since it's a non interference engine even if it does break there won't be any engine damage... although maybe inconvenient depending on where it happens! if you plan on storing it this winter after you do the heater core, make sure to start it and run it every once in a while to keep things lubed up. better still drive it around a bit if you can on clear days. i used mine every winter with no real issues other than adding to the rust.... just throw some weight in the bed and you're good to go in everything but very heavy snow/ice.

 

If you believe that it's worn, I think the first thing that I'd do is to check the compression. That will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine.

 

I recently picked up a used 97 2.3 for my 16 yr old son, and it did appear the P.O. neglected alot of preventive maintenance, however one thing I've learned, is the ease of working on these li'l engines. I'd vouch for fixing it up and keeping it going as long as possible. Parts are cheap, it's easy to work on, and gas mileage is great, so why not....Anyway, regarding engine compression, how much compression should these 2.3 engines generate when doing a comp. test?

 

A leakdown test would indicate the condition of the rings, valves and cylinder head gasket. Compression numbers in the 140's seem about right, from memory.
I would not tear one apart unless I knew that something was failing. In addition to the leakdown test confirming the condition of the sealing parts, a mechanical oil gauge attached where the current sender is located on the drivers side of the cylinder head would allow determining the implied condition of the rod, man and cam bearings. Good pressure hot, and a bit of time to leak back down to zero after shutdown indicate things are functional.
tom

 

well i am looking for a new ranger. i sold mine to the neighbors,they needed it for work and it was an extra vehicle