Stabilizer Arm Bushings on E350
#16
11-06-2015, 12:01 AM
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: gravel road ONTARIO
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torch would help but not necessary, a good chisel that will cut is what you need. hitting with a hammer that is too lite is like trying to **** a fire out, very frustrating. once the sleave starts to collapse inward it will move quick. but you will have to hit it pretty damn hard , a carpenters hammer will not be enough.
I have 2 air chisels, 1 I use consistently cost me just over $50 and does most jobs, other one cost me $250 and I only use it when things wont move at all. this job would go easy with the big one.
good luck.
cheers
I have 2 air chisels, 1 I use consistently cost me just over $50 and does most jobs, other one cost me $250 and I only use it when things wont move at all. this job would go easy with the big one.
good luck.
cheers
#17
11-06-2015, 08:49 AM
You've nearly there----although you might wanna get something other than a screwdriver, a handheld punch or chisel.
From the side where the sleeve wall has been forced inward carefully run something between the sleeve and the I-Beam hole. Placing pressure on whatever you use towards the inside of the hole hammer your tool straight through the hole. This will progressively crush the sleeve as its forced through.
Not everyone has every tool suggested here on FTE so sometimes we have to improvise. I don't own an air chisel and have done this same chore three times so far, pretty much just as I've described.
From the side where the sleeve wall has been forced inward carefully run something between the sleeve and the I-Beam hole. Placing pressure on whatever you use towards the inside of the hole hammer your tool straight through the hole. This will progressively crush the sleeve as its forced through.
Not everyone has every tool suggested here on FTE so sometimes we have to improvise. I don't own an air chisel and have done this same chore three times so far, pretty much just as I've described.
#18
11-09-2015, 03:31 PM
So I ended up using the tools I had (big flat head and light weight hammer) + a torch from walmart.
It would have probably taken under 30 minutes with a power or air tool. But it came out. after a good 2-3 hours of work. I can imagine the neighbors were not too happy.
Now I need to figure out if that new stabilizer bushing from auto zone, would go in. But first i need a large socket.
It would have probably taken under 30 minutes with a power or air tool. But it came out. after a good 2-3 hours of work. I can imagine the neighbors were not too happy.
Now I need to figure out if that new stabilizer bushing from auto zone, would go in. But first i need a large socket.
#19
03-04-2016, 01:59 PM
#20
03-04-2016, 02:17 PM
Used a nailing hammer and big screw driver and 16 dollar torch
It was alot of tapping. But eventually it came out. If you have a heavier hammer and a chisel you would be straight. Buy a 16 dollar torch from wallmart and it will bend real easy. Definitely more fun than sitting and waiting at a shop to do it. Also they may charge you 200 just to replace one bushing, lamo.
There is also a tool available, (since auto zone does not have this tool. You can buy it an ebay). Search 27pc bushing press.
There is also a tool available, (since auto zone does not have this tool. You can buy it an ebay). Search 27pc bushing press.
#21
03-04-2016, 06:08 PM
It was alot of tapping. But eventually it came out. If you have a heavier hammer and a chisel you would be straight. Buy a 16 dollar torch from wallmart and it will bend real easy. Definitely more fun than sitting and waiting at a shop to do it. Also they may charge you 200 just to replace one bushing, lamo.
There is also a tool available, (since auto zone does not have this tool. You can buy it an ebay). Search 27pc bushing press.
There is also a tool available, (since auto zone does not have this tool. You can buy it an ebay). Search 27pc bushing press.
#23
03-13-2016, 12:23 AM
It was alot of tapping. But eventually it came out. If you have a heavier hammer and a chisel you would be straight. Buy a 16 dollar torch from wallmart and it will bend real easy. Definitely more fun than sitting and waiting at a shop to do it. Also they may charge you 200 just to replace one bushing, lamo.
There is also a tool available, (since auto zone does not have this tool. You can buy it an ebay). Search 27pc bushing press.
There is also a tool available, (since auto zone does not have this tool. You can buy it an ebay). Search 27pc bushing press.
#24
03-13-2016, 12:58 AM
I'm assuming we're talking about the front sway bar bushings, those that are in the I-Beams, sway bar stabbing into them?
My best advice based on doing this chore at least three times so far......ditch or return the metal-shelled versions in favor of Prothane or Energy Suspension parts---those without the metal shells. Much better bushing, don't really require much more tooling than long bolts, washers and nuts. This is what I use: energysuspension.com | parts search, p/n 4.8101R, red so people notice them.
First remove the OEM bushings including the rather soft steel shell---various ways to do this from using a hammer and long chisel or air chisel---anyway that safely removes just the sleeves, assuming the inner rubber stuff is gone.
Lightly scuff the I-Beam holes with Emery cloth or something semi-abrasive. The urethane bushings can be "pulled" into the I-Beams via a homemade system where the back side is totally supported by a metal washer or plate thick enough to withstand maybe 100 lbs pulling force. Lube the bushings before pulling on them.
If you need more info please let us know!
My best advice based on doing this chore at least three times so far......ditch or return the metal-shelled versions in favor of Prothane or Energy Suspension parts---those without the metal shells. Much better bushing, don't really require much more tooling than long bolts, washers and nuts. This is what I use: energysuspension.com | parts search, p/n 4.8101R, red so people notice them.
First remove the OEM bushings including the rather soft steel shell---various ways to do this from using a hammer and long chisel or air chisel---anyway that safely removes just the sleeves, assuming the inner rubber stuff is gone.
Lightly scuff the I-Beam holes with Emery cloth or something semi-abrasive. The urethane bushings can be "pulled" into the I-Beams via a homemade system where the back side is totally supported by a metal washer or plate thick enough to withstand maybe 100 lbs pulling force. Lube the bushings before pulling on them.
If you need more info please let us know!
From Energy Suspension's website:
1) Remove sway bar and O.E.M. shell from I-Beam.
2) De-burr sharp edges from both sides of axle.
3) To help installation, grease leading edge of bushing then install bushing into axle using a C-clamp and 2 wood
blocks or metal washers.
4) Grease I.D. of bushing and O.D. of sway bar.
5) Reinstall sway bar.
#25
03-13-2016, 06:41 AM
From Energy Suspension's website:
1) Remove sway bar and O.E.M. shell from I-Beam.
2) De-burr sharp edges from both sides of axle.
3) To help installation, grease leading edge of bushing then install bushing into axle using a C-clamp and 2 wood
blocks or metal washers.
4) Grease I.D. of bushing and O.D. of sway bar.
5) Reinstall sway bar.
1) Remove sway bar and O.E.M. shell from I-Beam.
2) De-burr sharp edges from both sides of axle.
3) To help installation, grease leading edge of bushing then install bushing into axle using a C-clamp and 2 wood
blocks or metal washers.
4) Grease I.D. of bushing and O.D. of sway bar.
5) Reinstall sway bar.
Sadly those few lines make the job seem like replacing an air filter---those who've done this know its slightly more involved than those suggestions offer.
#26
03-13-2016, 09:49 AM
Senior User
#27
03-13-2016, 11:27 AM
#28
03-13-2016, 11:35 AM
After the test drive, he says his E450 RV drives like an SUV. He added Bilstein shocks too. Our own JWA should make a suspension video. I tend to copy JWA's upgrades as it's cheaper and smarter to let someone else be the trial Guinea Pig.
My thoughts are that a better stabilizer bar that is easier for the shade tree mechanic to install has a better rate of return of my time than keeping the OEM. Just my thought.
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