Has anyone replaced the radiator support on these trucks?
#1
Has anyone replaced the radiator support on these trucks?
Just wondering.
I spoke with Bob at Bobs Ford F100 a while back. He told me nearly EVERY one of these trucks have an issue with rusting out the Radiator Support. He told me it's a KNOWN ISSUE and it's much worse on trucks from the back east.
It's the ONLY spot on my 67 that has any Cancer.
LMC truck page 13 part #43-2856-t
If you have replaced one, any words of wisdom?
Bill
I spoke with Bob at Bobs Ford F100 a while back. He told me nearly EVERY one of these trucks have an issue with rusting out the Radiator Support. He told me it's a KNOWN ISSUE and it's much worse on trucks from the back east.
It's the ONLY spot on my 67 that has any Cancer.
LMC truck page 13 part #43-2856-t
If you have replaced one, any words of wisdom?
Bill
#2
It's two pieces of metal, stamped, sandwiched, and welded together. Small areas are not sealed and subject to water intrusion and subsequent corrosion. Plus there are openings into the balloon assembly.
I cut out the cancer and welded in new metal.. it was a small area. No biggee IMO... at least from a West Coaster. Yall easterners have a tuffer time of it...
I cut out the cancer and welded in new metal.. it was a small area. No biggee IMO... at least from a West Coaster. Yall easterners have a tuffer time of it...
#3
Thanks.
SOOOO..
What I'm hearing here is that you think I should take it out and have a look first BEFORE purchasing.
Then see if the welder can fix it up without too much difficulty. I'm sure if the damage is not severe, his costs won't be too bad.
Then either powder coat it or spray it with cold galvanizing compound.
It could save me some $$$
What say you?
SOOOO..
What I'm hearing here is that you think I should take it out and have a look first BEFORE purchasing.
Then see if the welder can fix it up without too much difficulty. I'm sure if the damage is not severe, his costs won't be too bad.
Then either powder coat it or spray it with cold galvanizing compound.
It could save me some $$$
What say you?
#4
yeah, I suggest evaluating your existing core support. Poke it along the bottom with a screwdriver or a pick to find rusted metal. Patch and repair.
If you want to go so far as to "bulletproof" the insides, seal it up the best you can and consider adding a drain hole in case any water gets in. Then spray or douse the unprotected metal inside with POR.... or Eastwood's internal frame coating spray with a flexible nozzle.
I always recommend advanced hobbyists get a welder... even a low-buck Eastwood welder will pay for itself in just a couple of jobs. ... and having a welder opens up a world of possibilities because minor rust, which spells "danger" for average hobbyists, will be a bargaining point. Plus with a welder you can make cool one-off parts...Remember $90 per hour to pay someone to do it or keep that money and put it towards a welding machine. I'm a believer in Miller welders.. I have three.
If you want to go so far as to "bulletproof" the insides, seal it up the best you can and consider adding a drain hole in case any water gets in. Then spray or douse the unprotected metal inside with POR.... or Eastwood's internal frame coating spray with a flexible nozzle.
I always recommend advanced hobbyists get a welder... even a low-buck Eastwood welder will pay for itself in just a couple of jobs. ... and having a welder opens up a world of possibilities because minor rust, which spells "danger" for average hobbyists, will be a bargaining point. Plus with a welder you can make cool one-off parts...Remember $90 per hour to pay someone to do it or keep that money and put it towards a welding machine. I'm a believer in Miller welders.. I have three.
#5
#6
Mine was rotted where it sat upon the frame. There are 3 vertical sides with a nice flat bottom for dirt, salt, and water to sit. It was also rusted where the inner fenders attached, so when I disassembled it, the metal tore.
I replaced mine with a core support from a 73 ($50). It was clean, with original paint in good shape. I gave it two coats of black paint and clear coat. I don't drive it in the winter, so it should last longer than the original.
I replaced mine with a core support from a 73 ($50). It was clean, with original paint in good shape. I gave it two coats of black paint and clear coat. I don't drive it in the winter, so it should last longer than the original.
#7
Mine was easy to fix because it was on the front face... The grill shell and bumper would have necessitated removal for access. I think any rot on the back side requires its removal for a proper and thorough repair.
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#9
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
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I also went with 73 one. Got one for 50% off at Pick & pull $37 out the door.
Some yrs. ago. Only like 2 new square holes to cut and insert the loop retainer nut for the latch bolts.
Ez just drill 4 small holes in each corner with a 1/8" bite in a one inch square with a little hand Dermel tool. Then do the cut out using a small 1" cut off wheel.
Get the placement measurements from old rad. support.
And remember to wear safety glasses.
Back side sealed up the white seam sealer, I also poured in some rust bullet to coat the inside the best I could. I also coated both sides with Por 15
as this did have some rust in the Battery area.
Some yrs. ago. Only like 2 new square holes to cut and insert the loop retainer nut for the latch bolts.
Ez just drill 4 small holes in each corner with a 1/8" bite in a one inch square with a little hand Dermel tool. Then do the cut out using a small 1" cut off wheel.
Get the placement measurements from old rad. support.
And remember to wear safety glasses.
Back side sealed up the white seam sealer, I also poured in some rust bullet to coat the inside the best I could. I also coated both sides with Por 15
as this did have some rust in the Battery area.
#10
#13
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Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
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No you left out the f350 73-79. all bolt right on.
Oh theirs another hole to drill into the rad support under the wheel well that attaches the front part of the wheel apron that's missing on the 73-79 rad support.
In this picture one or two need to have a bolt hole drilled to add a bolt & nut.
Orich
Oh theirs another hole to drill into the rad support under the wheel well that attaches the front part of the wheel apron that's missing on the 73-79 rad support.
In this picture one or two need to have a bolt hole drilled to add a bolt & nut.
Orich