T-98 Brake Drum Specs?
#18
#19
I marked the lining with a sharpie while it was clamped in position. I drilled it through on my drill press and rechecked hole alignment.
Then I had to flatten it out again and I countersunk the holes on the drill press. I took a burned up drill bit I had that was the size of the rivet head and ground it flat on my belt grinder. Turned it into a end mill. Worked great to counter bore the hole.
My lining was 1/4" thick and I counter bored the hole 3/16". That's what my original lining was. Left 1/16" grip for the rivet.
#20
Here it is all done. I wasn't going to buy an expensive rivet setter to use only once so I set it with a center punch to start to flare it and then a flat round punch to finish it.
I did like others have done and clamped a 1/4" bolt in a vice. Set the band and lining on it with the head of the rivet on the bolt. I tapped the band to make sure the rivet was completely seated and set the rivet. Not as purdy as a rivet setting tool but, it worked fine.
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#21
Here it is all done. I wasn't going to buy an expensive rivet setter to use once so I set it with a center punch to start to flare it and then a flat round punch to finish it.
I did like others have done and clamped a 1/4" bolt in a vice. Set the band and lining on it with the head of the rivet on the bolt. I tapped the band to make sure the rivet was completely seated and set the rivet. Not as purdy as a river setting tool but, it worked fine.
#23
Thanks for the compliments. I wouldn't have known this was repairable if it hadn't been for this site and similar threads. I have mechanical skills but, I'm not very familiar with these older trucks or what is available for them.
Some others asked me to post pics and info because they need to do this also. Thank you to those that helped me.
Some others asked me to post pics and info because they need to do this also. Thank you to those that helped me.
#25
#27
I'm pretty far into the adjustment with a new lining. Probably because I machined at least 1/8" off the drum. I could have used a 5/16" or maybe a 3/8" thick lining to compensate. Just something to consider if you do this.
The rivet selection is overwhelming. There are brass solid rivets, tubular rivets and semi tubular rivets. The semi tubular are what is specified for brake and clutch linings.
My band was drilled to 3/16" but the rivets that were in it were 9/64" which are size #4 semi tubular rivets. They have a 9/64" dia body and a 5/16" head.
The length I used is 1/4" long which is equal to 4/16" so my rivets are #4-4. Following that logic a #4-8 would be 1/2" long.
The tubular part is important to consider. You have to calculate the thickness of your band, the lining and the counter bore. Get a rivet long enough that most or all of the solid part is going through the material. The tubular part will stick above it all and be flared over when you set it.
The rivet selection charts all listed the diameter of the body and head, the overall length and the depth of the recess on the end.
As far as what was on my T98 and T9, both had 9/64" dia or #4 rivets. Both had the same thickness band but different lining thickness. The #4-4 "MIGHT" work for both depending on how far you countersink.
Hope this helps.
The rivet selection is overwhelming. There are brass solid rivets, tubular rivets and semi tubular rivets. The semi tubular are what is specified for brake and clutch linings.
My band was drilled to 3/16" but the rivets that were in it were 9/64" which are size #4 semi tubular rivets. They have a 9/64" dia body and a 5/16" head.
The length I used is 1/4" long which is equal to 4/16" so my rivets are #4-4. Following that logic a #4-8 would be 1/2" long.
The tubular part is important to consider. You have to calculate the thickness of your band, the lining and the counter bore. Get a rivet long enough that most or all of the solid part is going through the material. The tubular part will stick above it all and be flared over when you set it.
The rivet selection charts all listed the diameter of the body and head, the overall length and the depth of the recess on the end.
As far as what was on my T98 and T9, both had 9/64" dia or #4 rivets. Both had the same thickness band but different lining thickness. The #4-4 "MIGHT" work for both depending on how far you countersink.
Hope this helps.
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