1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

T-98 Brake Drum Specs?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 10-29-2015, 07:17 PM
Marauder2004's Avatar
Marauder2004
Marauder2004 is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 692
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
If you need some rivets, I have about 75 left over from this same task on my brake drum. PM an address and I'll share a setup.
 
  #17  
Old 10-29-2015, 07:50 PM
Scotty's 52 F3's Avatar
Scotty's 52 F3
Scotty's 52 F3 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 1,992
Received 56 Likes on 49 Posts
THANKS! PM sent.
 
  #18  
Old 11-06-2015, 07:20 PM
Scotty's 52 F3's Avatar
Scotty's 52 F3
Scotty's 52 F3 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 1,992
Received 56 Likes on 49 Posts


I cleaned and painted my brake band. I clamped the brake lining in position for a day or so while I waited for my rivets to come in. It finally settled in position with no gaps behind it.
 
  #19  
Old 11-06-2015, 07:26 PM
Scotty's 52 F3's Avatar
Scotty's 52 F3
Scotty's 52 F3 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 1,992
Received 56 Likes on 49 Posts


I marked the lining with a sharpie while it was clamped in position. I drilled it through on my drill press and rechecked hole alignment.

Then I had to flatten it out again and I countersunk the holes on the drill press. I took a burned up drill bit I had that was the size of the rivet head and ground it flat on my belt grinder. Turned it into a end mill. Worked great to counter bore the hole.

My lining was 1/4" thick and I counter bored the hole 3/16". That's what my original lining was. Left 1/16" grip for the rivet.
 
  #20  
Old 11-06-2015, 07:30 PM
Scotty's 52 F3's Avatar
Scotty's 52 F3
Scotty's 52 F3 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 1,992
Received 56 Likes on 49 Posts


Here it is all done. I wasn't going to buy an expensive rivet setter to use only once so I set it with a center punch to start to flare it and then a flat round punch to finish it.

I did like others have done and clamped a 1/4" bolt in a vice. Set the band and lining on it with the head of the rivet on the bolt. I tapped the band to make sure the rivet was completely seated and set the rivet. Not as purdy as a rivet setting tool but, it worked fine.
 
The following users liked this post:
  #21  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:04 PM
Jolly Roger Joe's Avatar
Jolly Roger Joe
Jolly Roger Joe is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Rockingham, VA
Posts: 6,599
Received 27 Likes on 23 Posts
Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3


Here it is all done. I wasn't going to buy an expensive rivet setter to use once so I set it with a center punch to start to flare it and then a flat round punch to finish it.

I did like others have done and clamped a 1/4" bolt in a vice. Set the band and lining on it with the head of the rivet on the bolt. I tapped the band to make sure the rivet was completely seated and set the rivet. Not as purdy as a river setting tool but, it worked fine.
That looks good. Nice work!
 
  #22  
Old 11-07-2015, 06:02 AM
Marauder2004's Avatar
Marauder2004
Marauder2004 is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 692
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Nice job!!
 
  #23  
Old 11-07-2015, 11:01 AM
Scotty's 52 F3's Avatar
Scotty's 52 F3
Scotty's 52 F3 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 1,992
Received 56 Likes on 49 Posts
Thanks for the compliments. I wouldn't have known this was repairable if it hadn't been for this site and similar threads. I have mechanical skills but, I'm not very familiar with these older trucks or what is available for them.

Some others asked me to post pics and info because they need to do this also. Thank you to those that helped me.
 
  #24  
Old 11-07-2015, 12:21 PM
pineconeford's Avatar
pineconeford
pineconeford is offline
Knuckle Bandage Sales Rep

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mosquito fields, Maine
Posts: 3,236
Received 618 Likes on 328 Posts
Well done, Scotty!

.
 
  #25  
Old 11-08-2015, 04:35 AM
1952henry's Avatar
1952henry
1952henry is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Mandan, ND
Posts: 1,749
Received 152 Likes on 92 Posts
Thanks for posting the information
 
  #26  
Old 11-08-2015, 12:44 PM
Scotty's 52 F3's Avatar
Scotty's 52 F3
Scotty's 52 F3 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 1,992
Received 56 Likes on 49 Posts


Here it is installed.
 
  #27  
Old 11-08-2015, 01:10 PM
Scotty's 52 F3's Avatar
Scotty's 52 F3
Scotty's 52 F3 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 1,992
Received 56 Likes on 49 Posts
I'm pretty far into the adjustment with a new lining. Probably because I machined at least 1/8" off the drum. I could have used a 5/16" or maybe a 3/8" thick lining to compensate. Just something to consider if you do this.

The rivet selection is overwhelming. There are brass solid rivets, tubular rivets and semi tubular rivets. The semi tubular are what is specified for brake and clutch linings.

My band was drilled to 3/16" but the rivets that were in it were 9/64" which are size #4 semi tubular rivets. They have a 9/64" dia body and a 5/16" head.

The length I used is 1/4" long which is equal to 4/16" so my rivets are #4-4. Following that logic a #4-8 would be 1/2" long.

The tubular part is important to consider. You have to calculate the thickness of your band, the lining and the counter bore. Get a rivet long enough that most or all of the solid part is going through the material. The tubular part will stick above it all and be flared over when you set it.

The rivet selection charts all listed the diameter of the body and head, the overall length and the depth of the recess on the end.

As far as what was on my T98 and T9, both had 9/64" dia or #4 rivets. Both had the same thickness band but different lining thickness. The #4-4 "MIGHT" work for both depending on how far you countersink.

Hope this helps.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
seventyseven250
Other; Brakes, Electrical, Hitches, Weight Distribution & CDL Discussion
25
07-07-2017 07:36 AM
robertbruce
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
03-08-2013 04:04 PM
procraft
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
3
09-09-2010 06:31 AM



Quick Reply: T-98 Brake Drum Specs?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:02 AM.