I did a search but came up with too many options for this ***!

It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold).
I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue.

Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well.

Should I have the batteries load tested first?

Thanks for all the help and this forum!

 

what are ICP and IPR values when cranking? Needs to be ICP>500, IPR around 70-80?
What is main voltage when cranking? Needs to be more than 10v
What is RPM when cranking? Needs to be more than 150rpm.
Those FICM numbers are fine.

 

Thanks Watson.
I'll check it out tomorrow and let you know!

 

Looks like my IPR is low...



So what does that mean?

 

Was that picture taken while the truck was cranking or running? It looks like it was running based on the icp, ipr and volts.

 

Yes after it started.
It cranks for about 4 or 5 seconds but it used to start immediately.
Shouldn't the ipr be much higher?

 

IPR should be around 21-23. Your truck needs to be fully warmed up, then post up the numbers.

 

A quick trick you can also do is spin out the ICP sensor on the passenger side valve cover first thing in the morning before the starter engages for the day. You should see oil wanting to spill out right at the threads.

If you don't, likely you have a leak in the high pressure oil system.

 

Sorry for the delay.
I was driving another vehicle for the past couple of days.
Anyways, here's the results with the truck warmed up...

 

Next step would be to air test the high pressure oil system.
Is it harder to start hot or cold?

 

Agree. You have a leak, injector o-ring or an o-ring on a dummy plug probably, something small.... that IPR at 23 isn't bad. If it was 24-28 like before, then a bigger leak for sure.

Park nose down and see if it starts easier, if so then the seal for the HPOP. If not, something else like dummy plug. Pull the ICP sensor first thing before starting it, if you see oil in the hole, most likely the drivers side is the issue, not the passenger side (you see oil and it didn't leak out).

 

Absolutely the right path! x2


To be clear, though, your 48V reading on the FICM is when the motor is STONE cold, during Key On Engine Off, during the cranking when it isn't immediately starting, and even when it DOES start, yes?

 

I'm not sure how to air test the high pressure oil system. Does anyone have a link?

It is harder to start cold for sure. If I restart it within a couple of minutes of shutting down warm it starts right up.

 

There are 2 ways on a late model:
1: Using an IPR test plug (HHC Diesel or ebay). This is the best test.
2: Testing through the ICP port. This method requires commanding the IPR valve closed using IDS or Autoenginuity, or by feeding it 12 volts from the battery or a special electronic IPR valve closer.

Here is my old video on it. Air testing is about the second half of the video. I'm sure there are better videos out there now.

 

Here are the numbers KOEO