I've looked at that graph so many times...and drooled

I haven't disconnected my redline yet, either.

I need a different tap to install my EGT sensor. I couldn't find my good kit, just the old, partial one, with the wrong thread pitch

I'm waiting for at least one of them installed before trying that stuff

 

I'm going to order the wicked wheel 2 today. My truck and turbo have 82,000 original miles. 2 questions, do I need to pull the turbo to install the wicked wheel and if so should I rebuild the turbo while it's out. Dieselsite highly recommends pulling the turbo, so I wonder if I should go ahead and rebuild it, but I don't want to spend another $100 if it's not necessary.

 

Yes, I would definitely pull the turbo, the only way to get the old wheel off without doing that would be to use an impact. I'm fairly certain that the mechanic that I had rebuild my turbo used an impact on it and that's what caused my shaft to break only 20k after doing it.

With only 82k, I don't think you need to rebuild the whole thing. I got about 250k on my turbo before it needed a rebuild. You'll know when it's time, the truck will be a real dog to drive.

 

It is easier to pull the turbo.

Don't bother rebuilding it.

 

This may be a dumb question, but I assume that my boost numbers will indicate when it's necessary to rebuild also?

Currently, the only way I can monitor my boost is using the Torque app, which reads from the MAP sensor, I believe. I'm not sure how accurate that is, particularly since I had to make it read 0 rather than a negative number when the truck was off with an adjustment of some sort. I do intend to purchase mechanical boost, trans temp, and EGT gauges, but I'm trying to spread the expense out some.

 

Boost will be a problem but not necessarily so much that it's obvious, mine still built boost eventually. I also had a bearing like noise at certain speeds. What you;ll notice most is that you'll have no power and your mileage will be total trash. Especially if you have any kind of load.

When my shaft broke, there was no mistaking it, it started leaking oil, made 0 boost and lots of white smoke as oil poured into the exhaust.

 

Thanks for all the information, this has been very helpful!

Off topic a little, but when I get a mechanical boost gauge, is it accurate enough to tie into the MAP sensor line mtself, or should I pay someone with more experience drill and tap the intake?

 

That's where I put mine but to be honest, the Torque boost gauge is pretty accurate. Unless you're going to put a boost fooler in and run high boost, I'd skip the mechanical gauge and use the software. I'll actually probably remove my trans temp and boost gauges and replace them with a fuel pressure gauge and a 2nd EGT gauge at some point.

 

Thanks for the advice! I just ordered the wicked wheel 2 from Dieselsite.

 

No problem. I think you'll be very happy with that wheel, I've been impressed with mine.

 

I just pulled mine at 280K and it was the first time it's been off. I rebuilt it since I had it off (an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure) but the internals looked in great shape. I did it anyway since I had the kit but if I would have cracked open the turbo first and seen inside I wouldn't have done it. I don't know if mine is the exception or the norm.

 

Cool

While you wait, do some driving and take some notes. Try to see where you feel your turbo kicking in RPMs, speed, under load (trailer or hill), turbo stall, etc.

See if you can nail down a particular place and driving speed and condition to reproduce your "problem" areas.

Then when you put the new wheel on, repeat it and see what differences you might notice.

We'd all like to read about your first impressions

 

I definitely plan to get some numbers before and after. I downloaded the track recorder plugin for my torque app for that reason. I'll make sure to post that information after I get everything installed.

On another note, I am curious what wastegate you fellas are running, stock or aftermarket.

 

That's a pretty safe bet. Using an impact wrench to remove a compressor wheel is like etching glass with an air hammer.

 

I would have gave you my WW. I went with the upgrade to a 4/4 RR wheel. Figured if I am going through the effort of rebuilding may as well be for a good upgrade.