Another no start again
#1
#5
#6
Ok I had 1 battery that was completely drained and the other one was good. I had it recharged at autozone. I reinstalled them and still no start and I noticed smoke come up from the passenger side most likely from my starter which was replaced back in August. Looks like I'm going to have to wait till Monday to have my diesel guy who did the job take a look at it under warranty.
#7
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#8
Ok let me give you guys an update. I haven't done anything new since Saturday. I went out this morning and attempted to turn it over one time. Here is what I get. I turn the key after cycling through the glow plug warm up. When I turn it to crank the engine all I hear is a continuous chirping sound not a clicking sound. I think that is my starter trying to turn but I'm not quite sure. Any thoughts?
I'm thinking maybe the alternator quit. My batteries are just a month old and one of them was completely drained. Would the truck not start with a dead alternator and charged batteries?
Also since I put the new batteries in I noticed on every start up it seemed a weaker than the previous start up.
I'm thinking maybe the alternator quit. My batteries are just a month old and one of them was completely drained. Would the truck not start with a dead alternator and charged batteries?
Also since I put the new batteries in I noticed on every start up it seemed a weaker than the previous start up.
#9
Here is a video of my start up. Does this sound like a bad starter? Please I could use the help.
I can't get the video to play. Go figure
trim.F8613079-BDD9-41CA-BD59-2286B4F206B4.MOV
I can't get the video to play. Go figure
trim.F8613079-BDD9-41CA-BD59-2286B4F206B4.MOV
#10
Sounds like a low battery click to me. I got the video to play but I had to go to it a couple of times first. It opened my player (iPad) and said it was loading but wouldn't play the first two times. Odd. do the interior lights go out when the key is in start? Do you have a multimeter? Battery terminals and connections clean and tight?
#11
Sounds like a low battery click to me. I got the video to play but I had to go to it a couple of times first. It opened my player (iPad) and said it was loading but wouldn't play the first two times. Odd. do the interior lights go out when the key is in start? Do you have a multimeter? Battery terminals and connections clean and tight?
#13
Terminals are clean and tight. I have a multimeter and batteries read 12.60 with the key out. I haven't tried reading it while cranking. What kind of numbers should I expect while cranking? I'll try starting it again and see what the lights do. I have bright lights when I open the doors and turn on the headlight but I'll see what happens when I try to crank it.
[Negative lead at the battery, positive lead at the starter]
#14
This absolutely sounds exactly and precisely like dead batteries to me. I wouldn't try any harder at this point. Rather, I'd stop, yank the batteries (again) and get them LOAD tested. They should test out above 800 cold cranking amps if you are in a northern climate and 700 cold cranking amps if you are in a southern climate.
During cranking, dips below 10 volts are not acceptable.
An easy test of battery strength would be to measure the voltage at the batteries with the key on and the engine off (KOEO). They should measure not lower than 11.9 during this test.
If you continue trying to get it to start as is, my fear is that you will kill your FICM. While I know a guy (), I'd much rather you not have to become my customer this way. So...
1. Get the batteries tested.
2. Replace them as needed.
3. Yank the alternator and have it bench tested so long as you are going in to have the batteries tested. There's a nice little trick on getting the serpentine belt off in our alternator installation guide at Alternators.
4. If the batteries test good, then you either have poor electrical connections (so clean up all terminals on all ends) or you have a bad starter. That noise, however, sounds very much like inadequate power getting to the starter.
Hope this helps!
During cranking, dips below 10 volts are not acceptable.
An easy test of battery strength would be to measure the voltage at the batteries with the key on and the engine off (KOEO). They should measure not lower than 11.9 during this test.
If you continue trying to get it to start as is, my fear is that you will kill your FICM. While I know a guy (), I'd much rather you not have to become my customer this way. So...
1. Get the batteries tested.
2. Replace them as needed.
3. Yank the alternator and have it bench tested so long as you are going in to have the batteries tested. There's a nice little trick on getting the serpentine belt off in our alternator installation guide at Alternators.
4. If the batteries test good, then you either have poor electrical connections (so clean up all terminals on all ends) or you have a bad starter. That noise, however, sounds very much like inadequate power getting to the starter.
Hope this helps!
#15
Ok so this morning I disconnected both batteries. The driver side reads at 11.26 and passenger 12.27. I have the driver side charging right now. I think it may have drained some from trying to crank it but I only attempted cranking it 4-5 times since the last charge. I think it may be that this same battery is a bad one. If so its only a month old so I can return it. I went ahead and wire brushed the terminals just in case but they did look fine. If I drop 2 new batteries in it again and I have the same results, what should I look at next?