I have a 1995 F-150 XL with the straight six and manual transmission. It idles around 600 rpm and I have to rev it up to at least 1000-1100 rpm to get it to pull off without stalling. I thought it might have been the clutch because I haven't had a manual F-150 before so I had a new clutch kit put in and had my flywheel re-surfaced. That seemed to help for the first 10 miles ...but it's back to its old self again.I guess I need a lower gear but I want to make sure I don't get the same one that I already have(It gets great gas mileage,but it sure is hard to pull off from a dead stop )Any information will be greatly appreciated. THANKS!

 

From what I have experienced thats how most standard transmission vehicles are. I wouldnt worry about it.

 

What tranny and gearing do you have? I have the 4.9 and initially it was backed by the T18 now a ZF. With either tranny I can let out the clutch at idle (600 rpm)in either the compound low or 2nd gear and take off no problem. The rear gearing is 3:55.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 20-Feb-02 AT 10:05 AM (EST)]His case sounds more like he has the Mazda M5OD tranny, perhaps with larger than stock tires.

tnjoker, you could try smaller tires on the rear to lower the gear, but my M5OD first gear does not act like a granny gear either. It's more like a car transmission's first gear in my truck, so that RPM sounds about right.

err... now that I think about it...

There again you have the straight six, and around here it's famous for falling flat on it's face (for a few seconds) right at take-off. This happens right as you'd typically start out from a dead stop. (For the first few weeks after buying my truck I had to rev through the flat spot to get the revs higher to take off from stop signs.)

It doesn't need to do this, and it can certainly idle better, too.

The fix is the EGR restrictor plate you'll read about in this and the Inline Six forums. Do a search for "restrictor" AND "EGR", and I'm sure you'll be amazed at the numbers of people who did the fix and are happy with it.

 

Thanks for the help,I do have 15x10's all the way around but with the stock wheels it did the same thing. I think it was geared more for daily driving than to pull anything. I don't pull much but I would rather lose a few mpg's than put that kind of a strain on my engine. I don't know how to tell what gear I have...if anyone can tell me how to find out what gear rearend I have I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks everyone!:+

 

There are several ways to tell what rearend gear you have. Here are a few.
1) There may be a tag on the diff cover
2) Check axle code on the tag on the inside of the cab, driver side. Look up the identification chart online or post the number and someone will tell you. For example axle code 19 is 3.55 for that 8.8 axle.
3) Jack up the rear and see how many times you have to turn the driveshaft for the tire to make one full revolution
4) Take the rear diff cover off and count the teeth on the gears. Divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion.
-Cope

95 F-150 4x4
4.9L M5OD
Front Truetrac Rear Detroit
3.73 Precision Gears
Warn Premiums
4" Superlift Superunner

 

Well the axle code in the driver's door jamb is 12. Can anyone tell me what gear that is. Thanks!

 

I don’t see anything for the code 12; look in your owner’s manual.
It should have the conversions in there.
Anyone else not find the code?

 

 

code 12 is 2.73 non posi

 

what is axel code 19?

 

I had the same problem. The m50d transmission with 2.73 gears is a weakling. I changed my rear end to 3.73 and this helped alot. It is still kind of weak though. My gas mileage did not change at all when i changed the rear end. you do have to change your speedo gear in the transmission. I think i'm going to buy a zf and stick in mine to replace the beercan that mazda calls a transmission.

 

WOW! If you got a 2.73 rear with oversized tires... say 31x10.50x15, then your in OD from the line.

 

19 is 3.55 open.