Un-Twisting Drivers Door
#1
Un-Twisting Drivers Door
My drivers door seems to be twisted as the door gaps are all good yet the lower rear of the door sticks out about 1/4" from the cab. The front of the door both top and bottom look good as does the top rear. The bottom seal which is on the cab quits touching the door about half way between the front and back. I am assuming the door is twisted. Has anyone actually untwisted one? The shop manual says to block the door just below the latch and slam the door. Hmmm, seems extreme. I have also read to block the top front and push on the bottom rear to untwist it. Makes some sense but is scary to try especially since I have finished paint on the cab and door. Anyone else see this type of issue and fixed it?
ps. OK, I hijacked this photo as my door is exactly like this. Help!
ps. OK, I hijacked this photo as my door is exactly like this. Help!
#2
The door in the photo appears to be more than twisted, the trailing edge looks to be flatter than the curvature of the cab/jamb. I have seen this occur when the door has been slammed shut against something that blocked the jamb. In this case I would put a piece of wood against the jamb above the flattened region and apply pressure to the lower corner of the door. This can be done with your hands and the weight of your body as a start...if that doesn't work then a lever covered with a piece of thick carpet is the next step.
#3
The door in the photo appears to be more than twisted, the trailing edge looks to be flatter than the curvature of the cab/jamb. I have seen this occur when the door has been slammed shut against something that blocked the jamb. In this case I would put a piece of wood against the jamb above the flattened region and apply pressure to the lower corner of the door. This can be done with your hands and the weight of your body as a start...if that doesn't work then a lever covered with a piece of thick carpet is the next step.
#4
You will be surprised at how much force you can generate without tools. What I would suggest before you go any further is to measure the gap between the door seal and the jamb at the lower corner. If in fact the door is tweeked then you should be able to see a good sized gap. When a door is properly installed, the rubber seal should hold a dollar bill in place with no problem. Lay the bill over the edge of the door and close it. Slowly pull the bill out from the door...if it pulls right out with no resistance then the door or seal is faulty/loose. If it is hard to pull out then the door/seal is too tight.
#5
You will be surprised at how much force you can generate without tools. What I would suggest before you go any further is to measure the gap between the door seal and the jamb at the lower corner. If in fact the door is tweeked then you should be able to see a good sized gap. When a door is properly installed, the rubber seal should hold a dollar bill in place with no problem. Lay the bill over the edge of the door and close it. Slowly pull the bill out from the door...if it pulls right out with no resistance then the door or seal is faulty/loose. If it is hard to pull out then the door/seal is too tight.
#6
#7
The dollar bill technique is not meant to measure a "good sized gap", it is only useful when your door becomes "properly installed". The good sized gap is an indication of the door being bent...the other option would have been that the jamb was pushing the door outward. Good luck...
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Showpanther
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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11-07-2008 05:47 PM