I need help. My 1992 AeroStar 3.0L 2WD keeps cutting out like it's not getting fuel BUT...only after around 55 mph and after it warms up.

I first thought it was the fuel pump so I changed it. I didn't get a whole sending unit along with pump, I just dropped the tank and changed the pump...that didn't do the trick. Then I checked the fuel filter along the bottom rail and it's very clear flowing. Then I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, how many of you have changed the fuel pressure regulator? Man it was tough! I had to grind down an allen wrench to get room to turn those three allen bolts AND I replaced it while I was stranded on the side of the road!

Well, replacing that regulator didn't work either. I don't know where to go from here. It totally cuts out at higher speeds when it's warmed up. Could it be the oxygen sensor? It can't be the plugs. I don't think it can be the sending unit in the tank even though I changed its pump. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? Any help would be appreciated. I'm moving to another town and I have to get the van there.

 

Sounds electrical, not fuel; I would visually check each spark plug and if they have not been changed in a while might as well install new ones for the trouble.

Next check if nothing is resolved would be the coil or spark plug wires.

 

Does your van have the TFI ignition module bolted to the base of the distributor? They tend to overheat in that position and fail. The later models moved them to the radiator support area where they stayed cooler and lived longer. You might try replacing yours.

Here are some pics of when I relocated mine in my Mustang:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1155523...7MustangEngine

 

Check for codes.

How-To: retrieve trouble codes- OBDI - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

 

I had my ignition control module tested 3 times and it's good. If I go over 50 mph it totally strands me and then I wait on the side of the road for 15 or 20 minutes and it runs again. As long as I stay under 50 it doesn't cut out and strand me.
Ford dealer says they'll run a diagnostic for 85 bucks. I appreciate any help.

 

Did you try the EEC self test that 96_4wdr suggested? Any error codes revealed should give you a better approach to diagnostics.

When you tested the module, was it hot like it would be after being run on the distributor, or had it cooled down? Your symptoms sound like those of a failing module, malfunctioning when it gets hot, but works again when allowed to cool down. The working periods will decrease as the module deteriorates. These things are about $40-$50 new, so not a big cost to try a new one just to see if it's the problem. If so, you should move it from the distributor to the inner fender or anywhere else away from the engine.

 

The ignition control module is not on a distributor it is on the passenger side of the front wall engine compartment. I think you're right, I need to just buy a new one and see what happens

 

Well, if it wasn't on the distributor, then it's less likely that that's the problem. But it's an easy test.

 

Well, here I am stranded on the side of the road once again. I'm pretty sure that it might be something else other than everything I've spoken of in the past threads. One guy at O'Reilly said that it could be in the distributor and another person said that there's a lot of sensors that could make it stall and cut out when its past 50 mile an hour at high RPMs. Oh well, not really sure if I'm going to end up selling it as it is or spinningspending 80 bucks or 90 bucks to try to figure out what the problem is.

 

One thing I have noticed when it does cut out and stall and put me on the side of the road after I go 50 miles an hour well wait a minute... Now Its starting to do it even at 40 miles an hour and 45 miles an hour I'm on the side of the road right now in fact. What I was going to say that every time it happens I smell a varnish gas smell

 

You've got to find out if it's a fuel problem or an electrical problem. I'm leaning toward it being an electrical problem. Just make sure you troubleshoot it and not throw parts at it.
Recently my Jeep was experiencing problems like you suggest. I pulled a coil off it it that had cracked and was giving me intermittant fits. It would cut out for a few seconds at a time, but always start right up and not throw a code.
In your case, I might take along a few gallons of water and pour on the components that you suspect are bad and see if the cooling effects temporarily cure your problem.

 

Did you read the codes?

You are going to have to do some hands on troubleshooting analysis.
Get and carry with you tools, fuel pressure gauge and a spark tester.
When it quits, start working.
We can't help you if you don't help yourself

 

Thank you sir

 

Most auto parts stores will rent you a fuel pressure gauge and a spark tester just for a return deposit, free rental. Try Autozone