Thank you. I really like the 3 link and it should handle extremely well if I can dial it in. The frame plates do not really add much, they are 12 GA metal with lots of holes in them. I bet 15 lbs for the frame plating totally.

It all started when I bought a little 1994 toyota pickup and wanted to do a solid axle swap. I only knew how to stick weld but never done any real fab work. The rest was downhill from there.

Thanks, we think/work along the same lines =) I dont remember where I got them from but they were before the cheapies came out on pirate. I only have .75, 1.5 and 1.75. Yes, hole saw to drill all the damn holes.

That hole knocker would be so much faster....headed to Swag site in 3, 2, 1

Swag used to be right down the road from me before Troy moved over to Bend, he is a great guy....I have his hydraulic bender mount for my JD2, his portaband stand and a couple of his action packer mounts. He builds awesome stuff. I am a wheeler at heart.

 

My dies go up to 3 inches. I recommend Blair hole saws if you keep drilling. They are amazing.

 

You Sir, are anything BUT a "Hack"ster. Impressive. I am sub'd and in the bleachers.

 

NICE WORK FAR FROM A HACKSTER

 

FYI.....His other F100 was in a magazine

 

AHHAA. So you and quite a few others on here have more competition for "Greatness" AAAA?

 

excited to see how this one ends up the last one is bad ***!

 

I get that a lot =) It started way back when from a buddy of mine. It was more that I was able to hack things up from just about anything and put it back together. That must have been almost 15 years ago now and it just stuck. Thanks!!

Thanks

Stalker........ =)

Thanks, Me too. Trying some different things and hope that they work out.

Been out in the desert for the past few days doing some epic dirt biking.

Messing with the steering column today just poking around a little bit. Going to attempt to convert this factory column shift truck to a smooth column to save a little bit of $$ and keep the original column. I am not really a sentimental guy but I am a little partial to keeping some of the stock stuff.

The one other thing I am really considering is manual brakes. Considering what I want to do with this truck and talking to a few people they are pushing me that way.

Nobody that I have talked to dislikes their manual brake setups. Better feel, excellent braking and a hell of a lot less complicated.

Feedback from you guys?

Sean

 

Well after lots of input from friends and a ton of research, I am going with Manual brakes on the truck. More room for the motor, better feel on the track and so much more simple....I like simple, especially on this truck.

Wanted to do the tilton pedal assembly but installation complications and $$$ drove me back to the original plan.

Ordered 7/8" bore master cylinder and 3/4" bore master for the clutch, Wilwood for both.

Purchased the matching Wilwood proportioning valve, bracket and lines for it as well.

Running all 3/16" lines as that is what has been recommended by lots of people running the manual setups.

Probably going to have to run a fairly agressive brake pad, but I am ok with that on this hooptie.

Also was successful in converting the steering column from Column shift to non column shift. I'll get it back together later this week and get some photos. It turned out pretty good for free.

Sean

 

7/8" Bore?
What Ford did is 69/72 F100/250 4X2 and F250 4X4 without booster was 1" bore. But Ultraranger is our resident brake expert.

 

Smaller piston diameter= a better pedal feel with less foot pressure required, not a spongy pedal. I did a lot of research on pedal effort and stopping power, also caliper piston diameter equates into the this as well.

Not running drum brakes in the rear also changes what bore diameter should be.

The factory power brake bore diameter for our trucks...well 1977-1979 so disc front drum rear would have been 1.25" Diameter. The manual brake version is 1" bore.

Now the 2012 mustang I pulled the rear from has essetially the same front calipers as the Crown Vic. It also has a 1.0625 or 1 1/16th" Bore diameter. You can see this is pointing back to my 7/8" bore.

Also planning on running all 3/16" line, this should help deliver the fluid a little more efficiently to the calipers (From what I have read). Running 1/4" lines will make it harder to stop.

There is really nothing left from the f100 at this point so using it as a starting point is rather misleading.

If I am way off base here someone stop me.

=)

Sean

 

A smaller bore size produces more pressure, for the same amount of force applied to the brake pedal, compared to a larger bore size.

A 1.00" bore MC will produce more output pressure to the brakes compared to a larger bore MC. The trade-off is a smaller bore MC will not have as firm of a brake pedal and the brake pedal will have a longer pedal travel. MC bore size will ultimately be a trade-off between responsive brakes and driver comfort.

My '69 F100 originally came with manual 4-wheel drums. Later on, I added a '75 F350 factory Bendix dual diaphragm brake booster --but (at the time) still with drums all the way around. On the '75 F350 application, the MC had a 1.250" (1-1/4") bore. I knew that MC would be too large in diameter so, I kept a 1.00" bore MC --which I knew would be sensitive with the drums but, I also knew that later on I would be swapping to front discs and would be changing the old cast iron style MC out for a 'modern' style MC --"modern" as in a cylindrical aluminum body with a plastic fluid reservoir.

I finally swapped to front discs (from a '77 F100) and added the 'modern' MC for a '95 Ford Explorer. It has a 1.062" (1-1/16") bore diameter. The sensitivity went away and modulation of the brakes with this setup is extremely good and the brakes work exceedingly well after this change.

 

Thank you for chiming in. You are also running a booster though. From everything I read, running a 1" manual brake setup would net me an extremely stiff pedal and a truck that was hard to stop. Would you agree with that? Ideally a 15/16 would have likely been perfect but they dont offer it in that size.

Also in doing all of your swapping have you changed around your pedal ratio from the manual setup to the power assisted setup? I know that pedal ratio also has a huge effect on effort and stopping power.

Thanks for the input guys.

Sean

 

A brake booster won't change the ultimate pressure being applied to the brakes. That will be determined by the MC bore size and the bore sizes of the calipers/wheel cylinders and the amount of force you put on the brake pedal. The only thing the booster does is make it easier (reduce the effort) for the driver to apply that force to the brakes --just as power steering makes it easier for the driver to turn the wheels. The same drag/resistance is still on the wheels to turn. Hydraulic assist just makes the effort to move them easier.

Smaller bore MCs generate more output pressure but move a lesser volume of fluid. They will also have less firm of a pedal and a longer pedal travel. A large diameter MC will have less output pressure and move a larger volume of fluid and a have a shorter pedal travel and will have a very firm pedal. A MC that's too large in diameter will make it difficult to put enough force on the brake pedal to get a significant amount of force on the brakes to stop the vehicle within a reasonable distance.

In MOST cases, a 1.00" bore MC is a good match for the majority of brake systems --manual or power. But, as I mentioned earlier, MC bore diameter will come down to a compromise between effective brakes and driver comfort. MC bore sizes may have to be experimented with to get the best results of stopping ability vs. the ability to be able to apply the brakes.

When Ford went to tandem brake MCs in 1967, the '67 Mustangs were avaliable with boosted brakes that had revised pedal ratios, compared to the manual brake pedal ratios. For whatever reason, Ford didn't revise the pedal ratios in the trucks, with power brakes, until 1978. My '75 F350 booster connects straight to my '69 (manual) brake pedal (it has the same [higher] pedal ratio that my manual brakes had). This is a big reason my all wheel drums, with a 1.00" bore MC on the booster, were overly sensitive.

Typical manual brake pedal ratios are around 6:1. Typical power brake pedal ratios are around 4:1. --at least on power brake applications that were designed with a revised pedal ratio. If you cannot change the pedal ratio to reduce brake sensitivity, the only other way around this is to go up in MC bore diameter.

Since my pedal ratio didn't change between the manual brake setup and the power brake setup, I went from the 1.00" bore MC to a 1-1/16" bore MC. This reduced the overall pressure output by 6% by increasing the bore diameter 1/16 of an inch. The sensitivity is gone and modulation with the front discs is very good.

1.00" bore MCs were commonly used on Ford cars and trucks, manual or power brakes.

A 15/16" bore manual disc/drum MC from a '74 Maverick would bolt right to your trucks firewall. You would need the input rod from a Bumpside manual MC to swap into the Maverick MC, since the Maverick MC input rod would most likely be too short.

BrakeBest Brakes Select NMC1602 - Master Cylinder | O'Reilly Auto Parts

There was also a 7/8" bore MC used on the '81 Granadas. It's for discs/drums and a power brake booster. However, the only difference between a manual brake MC and a power brake MC is the power brake MC will not have a receiver groove, inside the bore of the primary piston at the back end, for the clip on the tip of the input rod to lock into. An input rod from a manual MC can work with a power brake MC. You just have to make sure after it's installed that if you pull the brake pedal back, that the input rod doesn't fall out of the MC. If it does, you need to fabricate a pedal stop, to limit rearward travel of the brake pedal, to keep the rod from coming out of the MC.

BrakeBest Brakes Select NMC1764 - Master Cylinder | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Some aftermarket MCs may be more sexy looking but, if you're far away from home and the 'sexy MC' goes out, it's going to be several days before you can get a replacement from them. If using a factory style MC, if a local parts store doesn't have it in stock, they can usually have the part in by the very next morning. --just something to consider on that subject.

Running a modern MC, as opposed to an old conventional cast iron unit, has several functional advantages but aside from those, it's also more likely a parts store will have it in stock.

 

Damn that is a ton of great information. Thank you for all of the input. I have read through it a couple of times already and am still digesting it all.

I don't think I am super far off your plan with what I am doing, just a little different with my aftermarket fancy master cylinder.

Ill keep the thread updated as I progress.

Messed around with the truck a few minutes tonight. Tore into the drivers side and got the double adjustable setup on the truck....its pretty awesome.

Also glad that I saved the take off brakes from the front of the white truck, I think they have maybe 300 miles on them so I put those on. They are like new so better.

Also discovered that the sway bar end links are junk and it needs swaybar bushings as well, might as well just order the Addco sway bar now right?

Bunch of stuff should be here tomorrow or Friday. Hope to make some good progress this weekend.





Sean