IDM issues, compatibility questions
#1
IDM issues, compatibility questions
Before I go too far, I thought an IDM off a NBS would work on an OBS. Local AutoZone says need the manufacture date, so we called NAPA and the gal is good and she wants manufacture dates and the difference is '''''$124.00; can someone educate me? We would like to get him a 140V. but it would be good to know if there is a difference in case of side of the road failure.
Working on a friends truck,'97CC A/T. I had a post on here about this truck running low on fuel. Truck really ran bad, tanks showed low and the assumption was out of fuel. I came in with the A/E and stored codes were CPS. We changed it 3 different times and it still threw the code. Inj. buzz always said 'pass'. Truck ran awful and since it was outside, rainy and 30+ miles away I didn't have all my tools.
I also forgot my truck, the '96 in the sig. lost one bank on the factory IDM and ran similarly 6 years ago. Yesterday, it failed the buzz test for the first time out of at least 6 different tries. Every other cyl. failed to buzz. The pins at the valve cover gasket were not burned so I pulled the IDM. It swished water sounds. I pulled the IDM off the truck I was driving and presto, started and ran like a PSD should!
Chief complaint before this happened was the truck lacked power and smoked black, then all these symptoms and CPS code. Lost the glow plug control circuit and because it continued to pass the Inj. Buzz test with NO audible difference, we checked fuses, changed CPS and did nearly everything but threaten it.
It appears it was all a bad IDM on it's last leg and letting through enough current to buzz the inj. but not run the right bank.
Working on a friends truck,'97CC A/T. I had a post on here about this truck running low on fuel. Truck really ran bad, tanks showed low and the assumption was out of fuel. I came in with the A/E and stored codes were CPS. We changed it 3 different times and it still threw the code. Inj. buzz always said 'pass'. Truck ran awful and since it was outside, rainy and 30+ miles away I didn't have all my tools.
I also forgot my truck, the '96 in the sig. lost one bank on the factory IDM and ran similarly 6 years ago. Yesterday, it failed the buzz test for the first time out of at least 6 different tries. Every other cyl. failed to buzz. The pins at the valve cover gasket were not burned so I pulled the IDM. It swished water sounds. I pulled the IDM off the truck I was driving and presto, started and ran like a PSD should!
Chief complaint before this happened was the truck lacked power and smoked black, then all these symptoms and CPS code. Lost the glow plug control circuit and because it continued to pass the Inj. Buzz test with NO audible difference, we checked fuses, changed CPS and did nearly everything but threaten it.
It appears it was all a bad IDM on it's last leg and letting through enough current to buzz the inj. but not run the right bank.
#5
Right, I had a friend mod my 110 and make a 140V. and I know one dealer that sells them, or at least lists them, as "Hi voltage hi frequency" drivers. What I did not understand was the stores quote 2 different ones for '99-'03 at a difference of $124. I have not actually seen each one to see if there is a voltage difference on the label.
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