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Have any facts on the roll of the dice ? SO what engine is it safe to use ELC ? Or is it destroying engines as we type ?Examples & proof needed , not an opinion based on opinions Is it anything like not using SCA wearing holes in the cast iron block or the steel sleeves ?
Originally Posted by madpogue
Well, the PSD engine that went in the OBS trucks was designed before ELCs existed. The SD engine was built with stainless steel injector sleeves rather than brass, after the advent of ELCs. Conventional with SCA is what was in the engine when it rolled off the line. The decision is ultimately the owner's. I have yet to see any hard facts supporting either argument.
When I went through my water pump debacle a month ago, I posted links to the research I found when Fleetcharge was not readily available to me. The ELC coolants were not recommended for the earlier 7.3 engines. I was just saying to play it safe since Fleetcharge is easy to find. Yes, it seems the ELC chemical compatibility is lacking with older seals and brass cups, not the stainless. I don't have time this morning to go find the links again. I posted them a few weeks ago when you asked me for the same proof. Did you not read them then? I have not read of anyone having failed cups to warrant a "fact", but if the major auto manufacturers are saying "don't use this type because of A B C" then I don't see nay reason to not believe them. Fleetcharge wouldn't be lookign to cause hype or make money. They make both and each one sells for about the same price, so what would they have to gain? Just my thoughts. Fleetcharge is SCA coolant, while Finalcharge is ELC. Both are about $13 per gallon. Hope this helps.
When I went through my water pump debacle a month ago, I posted links to the research I found when Fleetcharge was not readily available to me. The ELC coolants were not recommended for the earlier 7.3 engines. I was just saying to play it safe since Fleetcharge is easy to find. Yes, it seems the ELC chemical compatibility is lacking with older seals and brass cups, not the stainless. I don't have time this morning to go find the links again. I posted them a few weeks ago when you asked me for the same proof. Did you not read them then? I have not read of anyone having failed cups to warrant a "fact", but if the major auto manufacturers are saying "don't use this type because of A B C" then I don't see nay reason to not believe them. Fleetcharge wouldn't be lookign to cause hype or make money. They make both and each one sells for about the same price, so what would they have to gain? Just my thoughts. Fleetcharge is SCA coolant, while Finalcharge is ELC. Both are about $13 per gallon. Hope this helps.
It does, and seems consistent with my limited research. I'm just going to use fleet charge?
1. How many gallons?
2. Is there a factory coolant filter, or is it something people are adding?
3. How often should sca be tested, and what do you use to test it.
When I went through my water pump debacle a month ago, I posted links to the research I found when Fleetcharge was not readily available to me. The ELC coolants were not recommended for the earlier 7.3 engines. I was just saying to play it safe since Fleetcharge is easy to find. Yes, it seems the ELC chemical compatibility is lacking with older seals and brass cups, not the stainless. I don't have time this morning to go find the links again. I posted them a few weeks ago when you asked me for the same proof. Did you not read them then? I have not read of anyone having failed cups to warrant a "fact", but if the major auto manufacturers are saying "don't use this type because of A B C" then I don't see nay reason to not believe them. Fleetcharge wouldn't be lookign to cause hype or make money. They make both and each one sells for about the same price, so what would they have to gain? Just my thoughts. Fleetcharge is SCA coolant, while Finalcharge is ELC. Both are about $13 per gallon. Hope this helps.
Ford did not supply a water filter in the F series trucks with the 7.3, which I think was stupid. An aftermarket base and filter is fairly easy to install. I plumed mine into the heater hoses. Some have installed a water pump from an IH bus that has the filter built into it.
Well Rick if you didn't take the time to read it the first time I posted when you asked, why would I take the time to post it again?
.
apparently I never read the posts you referred to with the links , I went back & found them ( In an oil cooler leak thread) IIRC . Good info but more about maintenance than anything else .
I noticed some concern for ELC & GM Dexcool . I Have seen hundreds of coolant leaks with Dexcool compared to older engines that ran traditional green coolant . I attributed the uptick to newer materials . Plastic & more aluminum in the newer engines .
Not sure the examples on the dex would not have happened with other brands or not ( aside from the acids ) there no comparison testing that I read .
I'm still looking for cup failure info from the outside . Stainless in the newer engines may be better (or not) I still don't like dis similar metals & electrolysis .
When I have time I'll re read the links , other than the TDS one from gooch I read that one years ago .
It does, and seems consistent with my limited research. I'm just going to use fleet charge?
1. How many gallons? 8.2, get 4 gallons of concentrate and 4 gallons of distilled water
2. Is there a factory coolant filter, or is it something people are adding? No but you can add one if you like, and I highly suggest it, pretty incredible what crap it pulls out!
3. How often should sca be tested, and what do you use to test it. Once a year seems to be more than enough. I'd be willing to bet 80% of the truck driving around out there do not even know about the Nitrate addative for the coolant.
action, I appreciate your feedback as well
Originally Posted by finallyo3gt
what are these injector cups you speak of?
They are simply the brass cups your injector slides into under the valve cover. Just think about it like a solid condom for the injector separating coolant from the injector itself. Inside the cup resides your tier of diesel and oil feeding the injector.
Here is a very elementry video of of how HEUI injection works on these motors...
Do not worry about doing this, sea foam will not fix sticktion in injectors. Sea foam is a great product, but is not the solution... this is typically is a poppet valve tolerance issue within the injector itself. If this happens just send them into a reputable injector builder and they will rebuild them.
Getting ready to do oil change and fuel filter change. I stumbled across several article on extended life coolants, vs conventional with SCA. I did notice my coolant looks pretty nasty. What's the general conscious?
Also been advice to run a bit of trans fluid in about every 5th tank, and have been told not to.
I've been told a bit of sea foam with the filter change (I believe in the stuff on my gassers), and been told it can make stuff gummy.
Catch me up to speed here guys?!
Change your oil with a quality oil. The biggest thing with 7.3 that is unique compared to standard injected motors, the oil is also being used as somewhat of a hydraulic fluid. The HPOP will shear standard mineral oils at a greater rate than a motor not equipped with one. All this simply equates to keeping up on your oil change intervals. Conventional oils out there will likely all do the trick when changed on a 3000 mile basis. The favorite cheap conventional oil are rotell-T and DELO. You can buy Rotella T-6 for under 20 dollars shipped off amazon for a gallon. I'm not trying to sound biased, but I run T-6 in darn near everything we own. Oil analysis done on diesels to 650 hp turboed race bikes made me a believer... Shaeffers, Amsoil, and many others are all great oils, I haven not found one that beats t-6 in the cost vs quality department though.
Oil choice are like women.... I will not go further, but good god there are a million threads on the net of what the best one is.... its all personal preference.
I will warn, synthetics do like to promote any current leaks on an engine to another level
For a fuel additive there are many out there, I run power service along with a 16 oz bottle of ashless 2 stroke oil in my fuel. Here is an excellent article regarding cost per fill up and the true lubricity increase between many different manufacturers... Choose your poison. Once again, everyone has their favorite, and don't tell them if they are wrong, or you might get into a best oil discussion!
And to the OP, just to be clear, I wouldn't panic or stress about injector cups. You asked about fluid so I was just trying to send you in the right direction as far as what coolant to add based on what I have been reading about and it seems like you have been reading about as well. Again injector cups usually do not pose a problem, but just for good maintenance and to be on the safe side that is why I recommended what I did.
Good info on oil and fuel additives Nick. I concur. I usually only use the 2-stroke ashless for myself with good results.
I run Howe's in the winter and occasionally add some bio-clean to prevent algae from growing in the system.
I also use rotella oil, but I only change it every 5000 miles. Fuel filters are changed every 15000 miles in my trucks.
As far as mods go. First you need to figure out why you have to hold the throttle when the truck first starts. The problem could be the injectors, but there are several other possibilities too. Does it smoke when it starts? The chip should not be run w/o an EGT gauge. Most guys will install an EGT gauge, TFT gauge, and a boost gauge. I would also recommend the 6637 air filter mod (or other non-K&N filter mod) and upgrade the down pipe. The downpipe and air filter are cheap mods and will really help the engine.
First thing is to figure out why it starts hard though.
[QUOTE =nossliw;15754699]They are simply the brass cups your injector slides into under the valve cover. Just think about it like a solid condom for the injector separating coolant from the injector itself. Inside the cup resides your tier of diesel and oil feeding the injector.
Here is a very elementry video of of how HEUI injection works on these motors...HEUI Systems - YouTube
Do not worry about doing this, sea foam will not fix sticktion in injectors. Sea foam is a great product, but is not the solution... this is typically is a poppet valve tolerance issue within the injector itself. If this happens just send them into a reputable injector builder and they will rebuild them.[/QUOTE]
Good to know. I've rebuilt hydraulic Valves at work before. How hard would it be to buy a kit and rebuild these injectors myself.
QUOTE=nossliw;15754724]Change your oil with a quality oil. The biggest thing with 7.3 that is unique compared to standard injected motors, the oil is also being used as somewhat of a hydraulic fluid. The HPOP will shear standard mineral oils at a greater rate than a motor not equipped with one. All this simply equates to keeping up on your oil change intervals. Conventional oils out there will likely all do the trick when changed on a 3000 mile basis. The favorite cheap conventional oil are rotell-T and DELO. You can buy Rotella T-6 for under 20 dollars shipped off amazon for a gallon. I'm not trying to sound biased, but I run T-6 in darn near everything we own. Oil analysis done on diesels to 650 hp turboed race bikes made me a believer... Shaeffers, Amsoil, and many others are all great oils, I haven not found one that beats t-6 in the cost vs quality department though.
Oil choice are like women.... I will not go further, but good god there are a million threads on the net of what the best one is.... its all personal preference.
I will warn, synthetics do like to promote any current leaks on an engine to another level[/QUOTE]
I chose to use the Ford 15w40. Cost-effective and easily available recommended by the manufacturer, I figured it was a safe bet. I am a huge fan of AMSOIL and run their products in almost every component on my vehicles that do not leak. But this thing leaks like crazy and figure it will probably change its own oil haha
QUOTE=BBslider001;15754752]And to the OP, just to be clear, I wouldn't panic or stress about injector cups. You asked about fluid so I was just trying to send you in the right direction as far as what coolant to add based on what I have been reading about and it seems like you have been reading about as well. Again injector cups usually do not pose a problem, but just for good maintenance and to be on the safe side that is why I recommended what I did.
Good info on oil and fuel additives Nick. I concur. I usually only use the 2-stroke ashless for myself with good results.[/QUOTE]
Nick, I will check out that link when I'm not mobile.
BB, I changed the coolant today. I chose to use the peak fleet charge. The coolant overflow bottle looked like crap so I removed it and cleaned it and drained and fill the radiator about 3 times running the truck until it ran nice and clear
QUOTE=cowmilker08;15754880]Nick, tried to rep you, but got denied.
I run Howe's in the winter and occasionally add some bio-clean to prevent algae from growing in the system.
I also use rotella oil, but I only change it every 5000 miles. Fuel filters are changed every 15000 miles in my trucks.
As far as mods go. First you need to figure out why you have to hold the throttle when the truck first starts. The problem could be the injectors, but there are several other possibilities too. Does it smoke when it starts? The chip should not be run w/o an EGT gauge. Most guys will install an EGT gauge, TFT gauge, and a boost gauge. I would also recommend the 6637 air filter mod (or other non-K&N filter mod) and upgrade the down pipe. The downpipe and air filter are cheap mods and will really help the engine.
First thing is to figure out why it starts hard though.[/QUOTE]
Today I found a high idle setting on the chip. Starting the truck with a high idle it runs fine. Considering my experience with diesels, I don't have a clue where to start looking for the lopey start. I'll be obviously I hope it on injectors boogers are expensive. I didn't have the opportunity to get the truck out and driving. But it seems as though it was running on position 6, which I assume would be the "hottest tune, I'm going to play with the settings and see if I can tell what's what and if I can find stock I will probably run there. I want to put an EGT gauge on it for sure. probably will hold off on other mods for now. I haven't noticed the truck smoke any at all at any time
10-30-2015, 07:24 AM
Is it anything like not using SCA wearing holes in the cast iron block or the steel sleeves ?
