OK. First of all, I'm not a mechanic, and you'll see why I've made the mistakes in this order, but here goes. Instead of trading in, my dad gave me a 2004 Chrysler T&C 3.8 liter, as a second vehicle.

The blower motor started "acting up" so I went online and the most common problem is the blower motor resisitor, so I bought a new one and changed it out. It seemed to work better, for a while, but, began to act up and the motor won't run at all. I changed the motor. All the relays and fuses are good. The rear blower motor runs an d you can control the rear blower motor settings from the A/C control module up front.

I bought a multimeter. I grounded the black lead, and checked for voltage going into the resistor, with the speed on high. 12v. I checked the voltage going into the blower motor. 12v.. That's Key on, blower on high. NOthing. It won't run.

What to do, now? Thanks.

 

Keep the black meter lead connected to vehicle ground. Measure BOTH terminals to the electric motor. What are the voltages on each?

 

14v for one and 0v for the other side, while van running, blower switch on high.

 

That indicates a bad blower motor. Don't care how old it is.

 

Those readings were with the motor unplugged. With the motor plugged in, back probing, it's 12v and 12v on each.
I back probed the middle wire, the light blue one, that goes into the blower motor resistor. It's voltage goes from 4v when the selector is on high, to 8v when the selector is low .... Backwards. Doesn't make sense.

 

I got the A/C Control module where you can digitally select a temperature for driver and passenger side, OR turn the buttons the old fashioned way. I rechecked the fuses and relays and they're good. Remember the back motor runs and can be controlled up front OR in the back.

 

I'm interpreting your readings based on almost 40 years of electrical troubleshooting experience. If your readings were done correctly, it means the motor is "open"-circuited.

Call your local AutoZone and find out.

I have no schematics of your van, so that's as good as it gets.

 

I replaced the AC control module - brand new. I've verified that the new blower motor runs by taking it out and wiring it straight to the battery. In fact the old one works, too(i should have done that before jumping to conclusions, but I'm an idiot).

Let's review:

New blower motor
New control module
New resistor.
Fuses and relays are good.

Back blower motor runs.

I got 14 volts coming in and out of the blower motor wires(both of them).

I've got 14 volts coming into the resistor.

I'm at a losfer words at this point.

 

maybe you should trade it in on something with a blue oval!!!!!

 

I found most ford i have owned control the fan on the ground side. The positive of the fan is always 12vdc. Troubleshoot by grounding the side of the motor that connects to the resistor if it runs there is a bad ground probably going to the switch