Question
#2
This is deluxe dealer installed A/C that is combined with the heater. The bezel you removed looks like this. Once you remove the A/C, you will no longer have a heater.
Notice that the blower motor is located where the glove box would normally be. There is a separate 'hang-on' glove box bolted to the bottom of the dash.
Why are you attempting to remove the A/C?
Notice that the blower motor is located where the glove box would normally be. There is a separate 'hang-on' glove box bolted to the bottom of the dash.
Why are you attempting to remove the A/C?
#3
If it were my rig, I'd try to get the a/c unit working again. That is a rather rare and unique a/c unit. My first pick up was a '73 F-100 Ranger and it had a unit like that. I had never seen another one until somebody put photos of one on here a few years back. When it worked in my Ranger, that thing would freeze you out on a hot Texas summer day. It really cooled well.
#4
New problem.
This seems simple. My truck won't start. I've got fuel and compression. I'm getting spark from coil to distributor. But a very weak spark from distributor to plugs. Sometimes no spark at all. This is what I've done so far.
Points-✔
Points gap-✔
Plugs and wires-✔
Coil-✔
Vacume lines-✔
Cap and rotor-✔
Fuel pressure-✔
Timing-✔
Compression test-✔
Voltage test-✔
Everything checks out. It sounds like it wants to start but it wont. What am I missing?
Points-✔
Points gap-✔
Plugs and wires-✔
Coil-✔
Vacume lines-✔
Cap and rotor-✔
Fuel pressure-✔
Timing-✔
Compression test-✔
Voltage test-✔
Everything checks out. It sounds like it wants to start but it wont. What am I missing?
#5
Condenser?
The new ones available are almost all defective. Motorcraft should be OK. But install known good, even used if necessary, condenser.
If not this check for solid grounding through distributor body to engine block, (paint is usually the culprit here) and that there are no coil wires chafing to ground through distributor body, and that the uninsulated copper grounding wire that connects the breaker plate to points is tight.
Need to see bright blue spark at plugs, that snaps in the air.
The new ones available are almost all defective. Motorcraft should be OK. But install known good, even used if necessary, condenser.
If not this check for solid grounding through distributor body to engine block, (paint is usually the culprit here) and that there are no coil wires chafing to ground through distributor body, and that the uninsulated copper grounding wire that connects the breaker plate to points is tight.
Need to see bright blue spark at plugs, that snaps in the air.
#6
Condenser?
The new ones available are almost all defective. Motorcraft should be OK. But install known good, even used if necessary, condenser.
If not this check for solid grounding through distributor body to engine block, (paint is usually the culprit here) and that there are no coil wires chafing to ground through distributor body, and that the uninsulated copper grounding wire that connects the breaker plate to points is tight.
Need to see bright blue spark at plugs, that snaps in the air.
The new ones available are almost all defective. Motorcraft should be OK. But install known good, even used if necessary, condenser.
If not this check for solid grounding through distributor body to engine block, (paint is usually the culprit here) and that there are no coil wires chafing to ground through distributor body, and that the uninsulated copper grounding wire that connects the breaker plate to points is tight.
Need to see bright blue spark at plugs, that snaps in the air.
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