1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Modernizing a 1965 F100

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Old 10-02-2015, 12:23 PM
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Modernizing a 1965 F100

Greetings - I have a very original, very good condition 1965 F100 short bed. 352 2bbl, 4 speed, 4 wheel non-power drums, manual steering. I'm currently trying to determine the best path to change this farm implement into a safer, reliable street driver. It will not be a show truck, or hot rod. I want a fairly stock appearance with enhancements for safety, drivability, comfort. These are the paths I see as options:

a) Start with brakes, AC, steering enhancements, and eventually rebuild the 352 on the stock platform

b) Replace the front clip (Mustang II, Camaro, etc) to upgrade to rack and pinion, disc brakes, etc

c) Drop my body onto a later model full sized GM, or Ford car platform to gain all of the modern aspects of that car.

All of these avenues have pros and cons. Once I've chosen a path, I'm stuck on that path (or I'd have to spend MORE money to reverse course).

I'm seeking input from people who have done some of the trial and error work and can offer advise on a direction. Thank you in advance!
 
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:06 PM
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I'm working on a 66 with similar setup - 352, cruise-o-matic auto, 2bbl, drums and manual everything.

Drum brakes, if the shoes are good, are still very serviceable and reliable in every situation except for panic stops and post high water. Non-ABS disks are better, but only marginally so, so unless you're putting ABS in, you're adding disks for almost vanity reasons only - just my opinion and experience with these trucks.

The 352 is a good engine, but I'm upgrading mine to a 4bbl because I'll get slightly better fuel economy with that - believe it or not (as long as I don't drive it like I'm drag racing someone).

AC is a good add as is steering upgrades. Going there myself but still working on body and bed.




Front clip removed and pulling the glass. This was about two months ago.





Working on it with my boy, Samson. It'll be his one day, so no time to wait on getting starting learning how to wrench and sand.
 
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:06 PM
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Thanks JPK - It's good that you've got a little helper on your project.

My truck is also caribbean turquoise. My drum brakes are VERY tricky to control and they lock up really easily. I was hoping for a bit better front control with disc... but maybe not. Best of luck on your project.
 
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Old 10-02-2015, 07:11 PM
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Are both the fronts and rears locking up or rear only? The brakes on my '66 F-100 LWB
don't lock up when I step on them hard. Maybe a pressure regulator for the rear would help if they are the ones locking up.
 
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Old 10-02-2015, 07:59 PM
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You said it Gantho: "Start with brakes." I suggest a dual M/C right now and discs asap. I'm leaning toward the Crown Vic front for my '66 shortie, but a lot of guys are happy with 70's discs on I-beams.
Eric
 
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Old 10-02-2015, 09:01 PM
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Looks good on the project and great working with little ones! I am starting on a 64 short wheel base with my kids and I am getting the ducks in a row. I agree with brakes and as for the locking up, I have to agree with jamieson on the regulator being the place to start. I have a 302? that came with mine and it's got numbers on it and I don't how to tell exactly what it is Can you guys tell?



 
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Old 10-03-2015, 09:30 AM
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I installed early '70's disc brakes, non power on my F100 and am very pleased with the better braking I have. They will install on your OE I-beams as well, just need new kingpins. You also need to change to a dual reservoir master cylinder for safety, even if you stay with the drums. The 352 would benefit greatly from improved exhaust, the OE manifolds are terrible, good headers and dual exhaust would be one of my first upgrades to the engine.
 
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by john jamieson
Are both the fronts and rears locking up or rear only? The brakes on my '66 F-100 LWB
don't lock up when I step on them hard. Maybe a pressure regulator for the rear would help if they are the ones locking up.
I believe only the rears are locking. Once I determine a path, I'll be sure the regulator is included if needed. Thanks!
 
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Putt
I installed early '70's disc brakes, non power on my F100 and am very pleased with the better braking I have. They will install on your OE I-beams as well, just need new kingpins. You also need to change to a dual reservoir master cylinder for safety, even if you stay with the drums. The 352 would benefit greatly from improved exhaust, the OE manifolds are terrible, good headers and dual exhaust would be one of my first upgrades to the engine.
I've heard the same about the exhaust on the 352s. Some people say "port and polish" makes a huge change too.

For the swap to early 70s disc, I'm assuming you use the kingpins from the same era truck, right? I'll DEFINITELY change to dual reservoir MC. Great input. Thanks!
 
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 6t6merc
You said it Gantho: "Start with brakes." I suggest a dual M/C right now and discs asap. I'm leaning toward the Crown Vic front for my '66 shortie, but a lot of guys are happy with 70's discs on I-beams.
Eric

Great input Thanks! When you say "Crown Vic front", are you saying swap the whole front suspension/clip, or just the brakes. I'd really like to understand the best way (best donors) to use for conversion to rack and pinion front end. I'm concerned that I can throw a bunch of parts, and money at improving the "stock" set-up, and still end up with marginal overall performance. Rack and pinion/wishbone suspension is a big step forward... but probably an expensive path.
 
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Old 10-03-2015, 12:57 PM
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I have power disk brakes instead of drums and I am very happy with them. I talked with the guys at speedway and even got it worked out so that I got to keep my original wheels and hubcaps (but I had to beat the grease/dust caps in with a hammer to make it work because the spindles stick out kinda far).
 
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Old 10-03-2015, 01:08 PM
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4 way drum brakes tend to lock up first in the rear axle because of the weight transfer to the front during hard braking. There is no transfer valve as such, the front and rear wheel cylinders are simply different diameters.
 
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Old 10-03-2015, 03:37 PM
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Yeah, the "Crown Vic front" swap is major surgery which removes all the original suspension, brakes, and steering, and then bolts and welds the modern stuff on. The two-fold downside is that the track is very wide and there is really no going back if you don't like it.
Eric
 
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Old 10-04-2015, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 6t6merc
Yeah, the "Crown Vic front" swap is major surgery which removes all the original suspension, brakes, and steering, and then bolts and welds the modern stuff on. The two-fold downside is that the track is very wide and there is really no going back if you don't like it.
Eric
Other than Crown Vic / Mercury Marquis, are there other platforms that work? I've heard the Crown Vic is bordering on too wide, and the large GM cars work better... I'd prefer to keep it all Ford if possible, but I'd have to consider all options. Mustang II, Mustang Fox Platform???

Thanks!
 
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:18 PM
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The Mustang 2 type is popular but costs way more, the pre-2003 CV total frame swap results in a fine driving vehicle without a usable box, and any front frame clip can be welded onto your truck. All, and others, are detailed somewhere here on FTE.
Eric
 


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