i just finished putting in new master and slave clutch cylinder on my 84 f250 6.9. fabbed a reinforcement plate for the wobbly firewall. ( yep..discovered that after trying out the new parts...in. and out. almost an inch of movement. and a crack around the bottom mounting hole)
ok...everything is in, clutch action is good, shifts nicely, firewall is stable....BUT.... slip point is about 2 inches from floor. i adjusted pushrod out, turn by tur. pedal still closs to floor, and too long of p.rod? because the shifting is a little rough. so, i backed off to where it shifts well, clutch feels good.
does this mean the clutch is going? if so, how long before the pedal hits the floor and the tow truck comes?

 

High clutch wear is associated with a high release point, as in a release point 2 inches from the point of max height (full release pedal position). Not sure what the clutch travel is like on an 86 but I imagine you're fine. How long will it last? How hard to you use it? If it's just a daily that hauls some stuff in the bed you could have the life of the truck left on it. The main factor that determines clutch life is the driver, this is why only dodge offers manuals anymore.

 

if the clutch fork is tweaked, which someone mentioned could be a problem, can that be replaced without taking anything apart? except for retracting the slave piston... rock auto sells these separately.

 

On the ZF yes, I am not sure about the T19.

 

I'v noticed the cheaper clutches disengage funny on the pedal level.

Mine feels like its almost out, new from po and thats confirmed. New fork and all hydraulics from me

 

Yes, you can do this on the T-19 as well. One thing to make sure of is that the "dimple" at the pivot point on the fork is nestled into the pivot ball inside the bellhousing.

Did you measure the fork travel with an assistant operating the pedal? If it's not at least 1/2" to 9/16", then there's still something wrong "upstream" - hydraulics, firewall, pedal box bushings, etc. If you have that much travel or more, then the problem is "downstream" - fork, pressure plate fingers, poss. throwout bearing.

The pushrod length adjustment is a "fine" adjustment. Is there "slop" at the top of the pedal movement, with no corresponding fork movement? If so, and you've adjusted the pushrod length out all the way, you may need to remove the arm (the one that connects to the pushrod) from the cross-shaft and rotate it and re-mount it, to put it in a position such that the pushrod actually starts pushing the master at a higher position.

 

ok...i get it about " slop". what about free play? i can push the pedal an inch or two, and then it feels like it's starting do its thing. the travel of the sc pushrod matched up at half an inch. i will have my sidekick tell me where the pedal is while i am down below watching.
i'm not real sure about this dimple. it sounds like a braille operation with the fork being inside the hole.
the little lever that the pushrod to mc goes on...i will check that.i had read that once those get out of position they pretty well need replacing because their studs are worn. is that why you say to rotate it? i get the concept, though.
i do need a better bushing for the pushrod. right now it has a temporary metal thing in it.

 

If your clutch pedal is disengaging when depressed, don't worry about it. If it's not, if it's staying slightly engaged, then you do need to fix it to prevent synchro wear.

That being said, I'm not sure about the T-19, but on my ZF-5, I had trouble with bleeding the hydraulic cyls after replacing the MC - No matter what I did, I couldn't get it to fully disengage.

My solution:
http://robbiethe1st.afraid.org/image...141221_001.jpg
http://robbiethe1st.afraid.org/image...141221_004.jpg

I modified the throwout lever to replace the stock "dimple" with an adjustable "dimple" on the end of a bolt.
This meant I could screw it in and force the clutch to engage "earlier" compared to the slave cyl.

Worked like a charm and I haven't had a problem sense. Started out with it screwed all the way in, got the air out of the system easily, then backed it off to a more "normal" position(but still further in than stock).