Hey everyone, I have a 1996 F-150 XLT, just got it registered, and I'm putting some money aside for upgrades.. Trouble is I'm not sure what I want to do to it yet. I'm not leaning towards performance because I'd like to keep my gas mileage (high school student) however I'd like to do some visual upgrades. Things I want to do are 3/4 ton rear leaf springs (mine are rusted to crap), fixed tailgate trim, cab lights, and replacement rear bumper. I'll post some photos of it when I get out of school. Thank you all in advance!

 

The first thing I did when I got my truck is check all of the fluids to make sure that a) they were full, b) make sure the fluids hadn't turned to gunk. I don't know how many miles are on your rig, but it's best to assume that the previous owner didn't change anything.
I changed the oil, changed the coolant, changed the rear axle lube, checked trans fluid, lubed all the steering linkage/U-joints/slip yoke, the 4X4 shifter linkage (if you have manual 4X4), changed the fuel filter, air filter, checked clutch and brake reservoirs, transfer case oil, etc. All of the above fluids can be expensive, but it gave me peace of mind since I had no idea how the previous owner serviced the truck.
Also, keep a log book of all the work you've done. Record date, mileage, and cost of everything. I have attached the Maintenance and Lubrication section of the 1996 service manual to get you started. Have fun!!

 

Best make that 2 piles of money, one for your upgrades & the second for replacing 20 yr old stuff that will soon be letting you down at the most inconvenient of times.

Sorry to be Debbie Downer, but it is just what it is...

Welcome by the way FTE if you haven't heard it elsewhere. Put you vehicle info in your sig & a location will give folks who decide/want to help you a reference point.

Good luck with your 96, nice to have the newest that you can have.

 

Agree, make sure it's in good running shape for commute back and fourth.

Let us know what engine, transmission ect... I'm thinking since you have a XLT i'll guess you have a V8.

These are the things I would do. You will actually get better gas mileage with a well tuned operating engine.

Spark Plugs, I prefer the cheap Auto Light Copper others prefer Motorcraft copper what ever your preference is.

Spark Plug Wires, I prefer Ford Racing 9mm wires.

Distributor Cap and Rotor, I prefer MSD Cap and Rotor.

Coil, I prefer Accel or MSD Coil. I'v used both, "Accel seems to have a bigger punch in my opinion."

Fuel Filter, change the fuel filter. MotorCraft, Wix or Fram does the job in my opinion.

Air filter, Keep the paper filter clean or swap to a K&N filter...Keep the factory air box the way it is.

I do not recommend the performance intake Kits. I have one...All they do it suck in hot air in the summer time. Depending on the engine you have I might change the air ducting that pulls in the outside air. 300-I6 or 460EFI air ducting has a different curve to it that pulls in the outside air through the rectangular hole through the side of the radiator.

I would also check the vacuum hoses for leaks or cracks to make sure their all in good condition. Replace with Silicone or rubber vacuum lines if bad.

Check your belt, "make sure it's still in good shape."

Check the timing chain to see how much slack is in it. If you have over 100k on the original timing chain I would replace it. You can do this by taking the Distributor Cap off and looking at the Rotor. Turn the Crankshaft back and fourth and check to see how much delay you have before the rotor turns. If you do that might as well replace the water pump since you have to take it off.

Check your all the pipes running from your smog pump to see if any are rusted out. Replace them if the have leaks. If you have the 5.0L or 5.8L the pipe tends to rust out behind the engine were they connect to the heads.

Battery and Cables. I would have it tested to make sure it's good. Clean corrosion off the connection terminals that connect to the posts of the battery if there is any. Inspect the battery cables to make sure they are in good condition.

Tires, make sure they are in good shape.

O2 Sensors. If you have the factory Oxygen Sensors I would replace those also. Over time they tend to have carbon build up and give a false readings that lower your gas mileage.

PCV Valve. Clean it and make sure it functions properly.

I would invest in a OBD2 Code reader to check for codes. A Fuel Pressure Test Gauge. A Vacuum Test Pump Gauge. A Digital Multi Meter. A 12V test Light. Those are not needed but good to have laying around when a problem occurs.

 

Alright, sorry for the slow reply, school comes first :P, so my truck is a V8, 5.8L to be exact, and an automatic.. So far I've added oil, haven't gotten around to changing it yet, it needs to be done.. Probably this weekend.. I'm also changing the fuel filter sometime soon, I already have that purchased, just have to get that swapped in.. my previous battery was toasted so I bought a new one at Rural King for $60.. Batteries are extremely cheap and if you have a farm account you don't get taxed near as much (if at all).. My spark plugs are also in need of replacing.. also on the list to work on.. I have a fancy K&N air filter, not sure whether that is good or not, I'll show you guys in a photo in a bit.. and Scndsin, I completely understand, no worries saying that :P We had the 4x4 lockers apart in the front changing wheel studs (pain in the *** btw) and the mechanic said that he saw no issues in the 4x4 there.. Rear fuel tank leaks.. a bit.. so that's not being used.. The front tank is a 15 gallon tank, right? also, I replaced the brakes all around, new lines, discs, and nearly everything in the drums.. also a pain.. And in terms of body rust (frame rust is another story).. for 150,xxx miles, it's not horrible.. Anyway, is there a way to adjust the steering wheel.. Currently, to go in a straight line the steering wheel needs to be turned at a 45ish degree angle.. so right hand horn button facing down.. The truck does not pull to a specific side which has me confused.. Tires are also on the list, mine aren't bad, but then again I don't trust the owner saying that they aren't dryrotted... :$

 

You will need to take it to an alignment shop....They will have to adjust every thing...60+ bucks.

On the other hand, "if stuff is worn out." You will need to replace what ever is worn before taking it to the alignment shop.

Pulling the bed off to fix the tank is easy...6 bolts tail lights and bumper lights may have to remove the bumper and tires to make it easier

 

lots of good advice there ... correct me if i am wrong but, regarding the steering wheel thing ... is it possible that a previous owner (oh, those P.O.s !) may have removed the steering wheel to replace the mutltifunction switch and then slapped it back on carelessly,
i.e. out 45 degrees ? or do they only go on one way on these trucks ?

 

If you have a 4X4, the front tank is 19 gallons. All '96 F150 4X4's have a 19 gal front tank - except the 116.8" wheel base reg. cab, which doesn't have a front tank at all.

 

More likely, tie rod ends or drag links done at home.

 

That would make sense.. he tried to do brake lines.. He left some in the piston, rusted solidly on..

 

I have another small question.. My washer pump keeps not working.. I replaced the box + pump a few days ago, worked just fine - for about 5 washes... Then it does not work.. At all.. I confirmed that there was power to the pump, not sure about exact voltages, but yea.. I'm confused..