While under warranty. Did you report the problem to dealership? It sounds like some problem with the connections or,the valve on the black water not completely opening.

 

The valve opens all the way as I did check that. As far as asking the dealer - something I forgot to add to my quite short list of warranty repairs.

If I can, this weekend, I'll open the basement panels and see what I really need to do to access this tank

 

I looked but was unable to find Steve's blog?????

 

See your PM. I think this site would frown on me posting his blog

 

I'm also interested in reading his link.

As it's not competing with this audience focus (Ford trucks) this site shouldn't object to an RV place?

 

I am not sure if this problem strikes folks as uncommon, but it is really not that rare. I have seen the remnants of construction in tanks usually plastic when the tank opening was cut. A time or two it struck me someone had done it purposely.

Normally to make repairs to tanks and dump systems, the belly is cut rather than dropped and is patched after the repair is made. Dropping belly panels can be a real pain and getting them back into place can be even worse.

You can also try snaking from the outlet end, but how successful that is depends on how straight the 3" line is to the tank. You do, however, want to have something in place to catch whatever might run out or have the 3" hose connected. To do that, hook on your 3" hose and cut a slit in it just big enough to get your sewer snake in. Cut the slit at the top of the hose. If the 3" to the tank does not have too many ells, the snake will go right into the tank (and yes, I have done this and yes it does work). Planning ahead for handling whatever might run out is crucial here. And I am sure everyone realizes rubber gloves, etc. are essential for this task.

Steve

 

I didn't see an answer to this question. A back flush might move whatever is blocking the exit from the tank. And, I might add, much "cleaner" than some of the other methods!

 

I have tried back flushing on more than one occasion without success given the length of the 3" and multiple turns. It is certainly a reasonable suggestion and may work in some situations, but I don't think it will work with the basic fitting that attached to the 3" outlet. There just isn't enough pressure once you factor in the turns. That means threading a hose up an open dump line, which might get messy if there is anything remaining in the tank.

As always, the repair just has to fit the situation. Worth a try perhaps is my thought.

Steve

 

Just a thought, couldn't you use a flush elbow with a hose, valve, or cap on it and run the snake through the hose fitting? Might save from cutting a good hose.

 

GOOD IDEA....and it sure would limit the flood of ****. Use something like this:

 

Yes, I've tried a back flush but as Steve noted, ells, pipe run length and valves are for the most part limiting the volume of needed water along with the actual pressure that reaches the tank to do any @#$% or debris blasting work. Back flushing WILL do a great job of cleaning the pipe run though. What I've made up is a gadget that does the pyramid brake down fairly well. Since we are at the campground at present and since I forgot my camera, can't give you a picture until late next week, I can try to
describe it though:

===1/2" water hose with the male end cut off (I used an old RV potable water hose)
===1/2" nylon barbed fitting to fit the sprayer noted next (Home Depot)
===1/4(90*), 1/2(180*) or full 360* spread lawn sprinkler head (Home Depot)
===Worm gear clamp to hold the barb fitting in the hose (my odds and ends but also Home Depot)

Use as much pressure as the CG can supply. This 'gadget' is fished down through the toilet drain valve and piping to the tank. The 180* seems to work best but the 360* version has an additional 4 sprayers on the end and with a very high pressure, which I don't have, could be better.

While it wont remove any manufacturing debris or improve outflow rate, at least on our 5er, I can assure you that the tank has been nicely cleaned after 2-3 break up/rinse, fill and drain cycles.

Shoving a hose up the drain - I'm not ready for that 'experience' yet plus to do it, it might need another hose with no male end to pass the ells and valve.

 

Sounds like a stinky job...Mine has automatic flush that you just hook up the hose too.

 

Nah. I was plant engineer at a garbage burning plant in Maine. In the summer, all those lobstah and fish carcasses plus a few hundred pounds of slimy clam shells after a few days in the sun, baking in a dumpster - now that's stinky!!

 

Have you tried running a snake from the drain back to the tank? Mine only has two bends in it and would not be hard to do.

 

The 5er will get 'put to bed' for the winter next weekend and the black tank will get flushed out as well as possible then the drain situation will be fixed. A snake may be considered if I can get it clean enough to start but probably not my first choice as it most likely wont cure the future potential for more problems.