I had guy from machine shop come by last night. I told him I wanted to sand off the machining seam off my rods and he said I can't that it will throw my balance way off. Is this true?

 

Not if you balance everything together, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to... Ask a qualified engine builder/ machinist who knows what they're talking about.


Pistons, wristpins, rings, small end and big end along with your crank, dampener, clutch and flywheel or flex plate

 

Being that I can't ever get ahold of Tim and his website doesn't have any cam grinds listed under "Camshafts" I turned to another source.

 

Is there a better ign box for the dura spark and is there a plug and play with Rev limiter?

 

Colt - Tim said he calls people back if they leave a message. Have you done that? Also, Tim told me that some people call him or email him multiple times w/o purchasing anything. He's one man running a company of, I believe, 2 other people. So, at some point he has to make a decision on where to spend his time, and if someone is using up his time w/o buying enough to make it worthwhile then he has to eventually decide to use his time elsewhere. I'm sure that you aren't doing that, but it does happen.

Tom - The DS box is fine. I'll be running one on my 400 that is expected to deliver 500 HP & ft-lbs. But, if you want a rev limiter you'll have to go elsewhere. Perhaps MSD?

 

@Summit Racing
distributor with rev limiter- d7132710
steel gear for roller camshaft- maa-29463pd
coil- pnx-44011

 

It would still be nice to click the link for camshafts and actually have a cam grind come up on his site and who to buy it through etc... I respect that he is busy but, to have an incomplete site is kinda futile in my opinion and loses business, sadly... I will be buying more stuff from Tim he just missed out on selling me a camshaft.

 

If you like your Duraspark distributor and the OE look, you can add a MSD box that could have your rev limiter in it. MSD has a pig tail that will connect the both.

 

First of all camshaft selection is on such an individual basis. Your comment here say I should have a link for you to click on, yet you also say a page ago to call Comp Cams. Isn't that what we are trying to offer?
And why should I offer "who to buy it through"

I am sorry we are very busy, but if you recall the first of your 4 different email, started out with
"Lets start with what I have and am using."
And you listed all your parts including the Comp Cams items.

Sorry, that's why I didn't respond until your 4 different email.

And you know what, everybody has the right to purchase parts where ever they want, I totally understand that.
But then don't send me emails like this:

"Ford 400 and a few questions due to a change in build, please help."
"Where do I buy Torrington Cam thrust plate and bearing?"
"Comp cams spider tray roller setup RPM limit?"
"Compression question, NEED torrington thrust bearing. HELP!!"

I apologize for the rant, but I really want to make this public why I may not always answer emails or phone calls.

 

If you have it I'll add when I order pistons.

 

Well wile out cleaning up the garage tonight I decided to look at my lifters and I started to try to depress them and found 7 that was solid with no give. is this what could have caused the condition? I planned on re using these if I decided to keep the flat tappet. I guess that's another thing ill have to get.

 

Depending on how far extended the lifter is, that could cause the valve not to seat. That would cause a miss, and a burned valve.

 

Got a quote today from the local auto part store for reman heads and they want 260 each. Tomorrow I'll call the head shop and ask how much to rework mine but I'm sure that is more cash. So options are aussie heads for about $450 and I believe that price is for core non rebuilt, the local auto parts head, or getting mine redone. I still have to get pistons first so these are one of the last things I buy, but im still trying to weigh out my options. Wish I had the cash to buy tims chi heads but who knows by that time I may have a big job come in. Gary, is there a article on tims oil mods? All I can find is pinterst pictures and any literature on it. I know that it's in your build thread but I want something I could possibly print out to put in the truck file.

 

What does the main bearing look like that was feeding the rod in pic #3 ? Was the align bore checked in the block ? Was there any run out in the crank ? Did you seat the thrust bearing the right way ? Was it balanced ? Were the rods resized and did you check them after you got them back ? Never trust any ones machine work, always check their work when you get the parts back. You are going to have to get mics and a good bore gauge reading in.0001 if you are going to build engines so you can set bearing clearance, check bore sizes and check other peoples work. If you are going to have machine work done on heads, block milled or even change your heads, change cams, you are going to have to get a push rod length checker. Don't expect to just run the stock length. Don't forget to add your lifter preload figure into the length you come up with. Make sure all your valve tip heights are equal when you get your heads back from your machine shop. If they are not you will have lifter preload problems.

 

Two things here:

1) Tim Meyer is the best guy to go to for the parts you need on these engines. I bought nearly everything from him. He will match Summit and Jegs. I did not waste his time. I saved my money until I was ready to pull the trigger, then I called Tim, e-mailed him my specifics, and waited for him to call me back. When he called back, I wrote down the questions I had and he helped me make good decisions for my build. I respected his time and gave him my business and money.

In return, he gave me great advice and when I was shimming my Scorpion roller rockers and checking my roller-on-valve stem alignment and calculating rod length, Tim Face-Timed with me (in real time) on a Saturday so I got it right. Now THAT is personal customer service like I have never seen before from any vendor! Bear in mind that I bought my stuff from him and did not dis-respect him or his time by asking him to help me but not giving him business.

If we want to keep small businessmen like Tim operating and available for all of our benefit, we need to support them with our wallet. It is worth the slightly longer wait vs. shopping at the big box stores, and you make a friend in the process.

2) On the ignition topic: Either stay 100% DuraSpark, or go with a COMPLETE aftermarket setup. Do NOT try a GM HEI ignition or a distributor with built-in ignition control...they lack adequate discharge power vs. the DuraSpark and they are not reliable.

I tried an MSD Pro Billet all-in-one and could not figure out why the car would die at idle, sputter on shutdown, ping on acceleration, and run like crap after my epic rebuild. It was the lack of quality ignition spark. I added the MSD digital ignition box and all was well. It runs great now...but my point is now it runs as good as the OEM DuraSpark system ran!

The advantages in going aftermarket are the good looks, billet parts, easier curve-advance and timing stop bushing changes, and multiple-spark discharge, but it is costly. So either stay 100% OEM or go all-in if you go aftermarket. I have not used Accel, Mallory or others, only MSD, but that is my experience.

Shane